Protecting areas from case hardening.

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Protecting areas from case hardening.

Home Forums Workshop Techniques Protecting areas from case hardening.

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  • #195380
    Bob Rodgerson
    Participant
      @bobrodgerson97362

      I occasionally make crank pins for motor cycle crankshafts. Often these are tapered pins and they are drawn into the taper in the flywheels with nuts that are tightened up with plenty of torque. In order to prevent too much depth of thread becoming hardened and consequently too brittle I usually make a couple of spare nuts and cover the threads with them so that the case hardening is not so severe over the threads. Is there a simpler more reliable method that can be used?

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      #15788
      Bob Rodgerson
      Participant
        @bobrodgerson97362
        #195382
        michael howarth 1
        Participant
          @michaelhowarth1

          When silver soldering, I paint Tippex onto parts that I wish to keep safe from an overrun of flux/solder. It works well and certainly stands up well to red heat and washes off with water. Might be worth a go.

          Mick

          #195389
          David Colwill
          Participant
            @davidcolwill19261

            I believe that copper plating is used commercially.
            Regards David.

            #195390
            JohnF
            Participant
              @johnf59703

              Bob copper plating will stop the carbon dissolving into the threads but using sacrificial nuts is probably a simpler way and of course you can use them several times providing the thread is the same.

              Fire clay would probably also work but I have not tried it and it may be difficult to remove it — suck it and see on a test piece ! Tipex well again it might work, it certainly does on silver soldering so it's worth a couple of test pieces, try threaded and plain sections and see what happens.

              Regards John

              #195405
              Martin Kyte
              Participant
                @martinkyte99762

                Why don't you carburise in your usual way before you cut the thread. Then cut the thread which will remove the high carbon layer on the threaded section. Heat and quench to harden and you are there.

                regards Martin

                #195406
                Bob Rodgerson
                Participant
                  @bobrodgerson97362

                  Good Idea Martin I will give it a try.

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