Printing clock wheels…?

[Tony JeffreeParticipant @tonyjeffree56510]

[Tony JeffreeParticipant @tonyjeffree56510]

Anyone attempted this yet? I have a copy of Art Fenerty's Gearotic (**LINK**) that I have dusted off & updated to the latest version, and have tried printing a couple of test wheels at 1 Module using a fairly coarse setting (0.2mm layers) on my Ender 3. Successfully printed a 60T cycloidal wheel and a supposedly matching 12T pinion, but the tooth form leaves a lot to be desired. Just re-doing the large wheel using 0.1mm layers but it is taking a while – the teeth seem to be "spreading" a little, so the tooth spaces look on the small side. Anyone had any better success?

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hi Tony,

Do you use Cura?

I found that a combination of negative 'horizontal expansion' with an even greater level for the first layers to prevent elephant's foot is the solution. You will then find all your less critical prints are better too!

<edit>

I have horizontal expansion at -0.05mm with initial layer at -0.15mm, that might be a place to start. Also beware worn nozzles!

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 09/04/2020 12:20:17

[Tony JeffreeParticipant @tonyjeffree56510]

Hi Neil

I have Cura but haven't yet got to grips with it – obviously now is the time to start! Thanks for the tip…

Cheers,

Tony

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Since you now have a 'spare' you might try running it in with a metal gear and see if it improves, or degrades, the tooth face. I printed a module 1 gear, photo in my album, which is fine as a changewheel but I think the requirements are more difficult for a clock.

[Tony JeffreeParticipant @tonyjeffree56510]

Posted by Bazyle on 09/04/2020 17:42:07:

Since you now have a 'spare' you might try running it in with a metal gear and see if it improves, or degrades, the tooth face. I printed a module 1 gear, photo in my album, which is fine as a changewheel but I think the requirements are more difficult for a clock.

Unfortunately, I don't have any 1 module cycloidal metal gears to run it in with, but yes, if I did, that would be worth a go.

[Ronald MorrisonParticipant @ronaldmorrison29248]

Another item to consider is the extruder temperature. Not all PLA works well at the same temperature.

[Danny RParticipant @dannyr]

Hi Tony. I have been producing lots of gears of various types on my home built Prusa type 3d printer and have posted a design hint on Thingiverse that might help you produce better gears. Go to the Thingiverse site and search for "Better 3D Printed Gears" by Danthelad. Instead of making a file with the gear as a parallel sided model (top and bottom) try to put a taper from the base of the teeth to the top of the teeth of about 3 to 5 degrees so that this area is not printed directly from the print plate but is built up gradually. This leaves the tooth area clear of the printing base and does not cause the "Elephants Foot" problem.

Hope this helps,

Danny.

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

Ive seen your gears Dan – good work. I note that you were running with ABS. I tried and it eas a total failure but now ger great results on PLA at very 'loose' setting of 0.3 layer, 10% fill and 205 deg, running at 80mm/s…..i think it runs well because theere is less heat store…keep posting!

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Experiment, experiment, experiment.

If you try different settings, different filaments you will learn what works well for your designs on your printer.

And whenever you get below par results when you were expecting better, always suspect a worn nozzle.

Neil

[Enough!Participant @enough]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/04/2020 18:04:05:

Experiment, experiment, experiment.

I think I've spent 90% of my 3D printer activity on making experiments and 10% on making anything useful.

[Tony JeffreeParticipant @tonyjeffree56510]

Hi Danny

Thanks for the tip – I will give that a go.

Cheers,

Tony

[Tony JeffreeParticipant @tonyjeffree56510]

Posted by Bandersnatch on 22/04/2020 18:31:29:

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/04/2020 18:04:05:

Experiment, experiment, experiment.

I think I've spent 90% of my 3D printer activity on making experiments and 10% on making anything useful.

Sounds a bit like the metalworking equivalent – 90% of the time making jigs, fixtures and special tools, 10% making the part you wanted to make in the first place…

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