Part built Allchin 1.5 inch

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Thanks Clive and Paul for your comments

[Anonymous]

Posted by JasonB on 07/02/2019 10:40:02:

……. use hex stock to make bolts but do them with a dome on the top of the head to look like a protruding stud.

Wot, no two exposed threads of the stud for safety? For reference I will be using home made EN3B studs and EN1A nuts for holding the cylinder block on my traction engines; although they are larger scale and have steel boilers.

Andrew

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

No need for a specific amount of thread showing when it's all solid metal.

I think even the most avid rivit counter would have a job telling the one piece ones going into the boiler from the rest which are all nuts and studs especially under a coat of black paint.

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

I love how a simple question turns into a discussion, its great to see.

so they are your homemade studs on your fowler I see how you made them now.

they look good, I think I shall have a try and see how much stainless hex is however I do struggle with stainless on my lathe for some reason.

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Hi Jason

Can you use stainless steel threaded rod and Loctite on stainless nuts and then round them off like yours or is this a failure to an inspector,

Regards,

Derek

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Ideally silver solder the nuts to the studs to be sure that the stud comes out if you need to take things apart in the future. If you round over the end, screw the two together with some flux and then apply a tiny amount of solder to the top when the flux melts that should stop you clogging the thread with solder.

Bronze studding or rod you thread yourself and brass nuts will be easy to solder, if one or the other is stainless then use tenacity No5 or HT5 flux

Loctite would be acceptable too probably go for 648 which will take the heat better.

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Many thanks Jason, but only Loctite if I go for bronze and brass nuts? not stainless studding and stainless nuts.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Loctite for any of the metals if you prefer not to silver solder

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Thanks Jason

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

sorry Jason, just one last question can I use stainless studding with brass nuts?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Yes

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Evening All

lots of little bits done on the Allchin, project still ticking along and news that my boiler should be useable and will be finished in due course so that’s good news.

once this arrives the engine can take shape and I can update the pictures.

one job tonight was to thread some bronze bar 5BA and make the cylinder fixing studs.

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

Hope the extra half dozen you made for me are in the post already…..

Just joking. They look great Derek. Good news on your boiler.

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Anytime Jeff!

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Evening all

abit more work on the cylinder done after receiving it back from Ken who very kindly did some tasks I just couldn’t do on my lathe.and I still have no milling machine.

ive finished drilling and tapping the cylinder cover holes front and back, more fixing holes on valve chest cover and attempted first fit of slide valve.

im pleased so far, let’s see if it all works in the end…

Edited By derek blake on 15/03/2019 19:35:49

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Hi All

I'm in need of a cheat, I'm making the steam glands this week.

ive made the one for the piston but have the regulator and slide valve ones to make, I turned two yesterday and they were great until I tried to transfer the stud holes into them and I was misaligned.

is there a easy way of transferring the stud position from the cylinder into the rear of the gland ready for drilling instead of trying to measure?

I was thinking of maybe turning some studs with points and gently pressing the gland onto that this transferring a small dent as a marker.

the glands wont go right up to the cylinder so I cant use ink etc.

I just wondered if there was a really simple way that I'm missing.

Many thanks,

Del

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Pointed studs will work, infact you can even buy them. When you turn the point also file a couple of flats either side so you have something to wind the stud out with.

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Thanks Jason, I think that’s the best bet.

i will make some tonight, especially as they can be used again.

Del

[Paul KempParticipant @paulkemp46892]

Derek,

Lokking good, nice to see you are progressing. Usually with glands or flanges I drill off the gland / flange tapping size for the studs, put it in position and drill through and tap, means the holes are all in the right place and the studs stand up like soldiers rather than drunken sailors! In your case though pointed or transfer studs are a good way to do it. Any way that you come up with that works is a good way to do something!

Paul.

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

thanks Paul, because they were blind holes I used the first one to mark the second but I’m going make some studs with points as mentioned by Jason for the other glands.

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

Hi All

so I’ve been quite on here but not in my summerhouse, I will update pictures today.

boiler still being worked on so in the mean time I’ve worked on the water pump which works.

gear guards, cylinder, and some other small tasks.

i have one question please, I’ve brought some graphite’s yarn for the glands on the cylinder. How do you fit this stuff, do you wrap around the rod and push gland in or do you stuff pieces in around rod and tighten gland down?

i have a O ring arrangement on main piston so this advice is for the regulator and slide valve rod.

thank you

[derek blakeParticipant @derekblake72550]

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