Newby CL500M

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Newby CL500M

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  • #545085
    john halfpenny
    Participant
      @johnhalfpenny52803

      Hello Martin. Clarke use M12 for their stuff, but of course it depends on what you fit in the Morse taper. I also have 7/16 unf and 1/2 bsw drawbars to suit my various ancient chucks.

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      #545087
      martin perman 1
      Participant
        @martinperman1

        John,

        Thanks, I use my manual for detail, enough rubbish in my head without adding more smiley by the way whose DRO are you using.

        Martin P

        #545097
        john halfpenny
        Participant
          @johnhalfpenny52803

          DROs are Arc Euro standard type with remote display.

          #545668
          Danni Burns
          Participant
            @danniburns84841

            Hi all I'm looking to buy a Clarke milling block

            It seems other ive seen are no cheaper and a Clarke should aleast fit proper.

            If anyone is selling id appreciate a heads up.

            Thanks

            #546193
            Danni Burns
            Participant
              @danniburns84841

              So the Splash Guard is done. Just need to paint and fasten it proper.

              Also, I went for a lump of FOC I-section instead giving Clarke £75. I'll see how I get on when Ive got it fastened down.

              Not: Clarke shite vice for demonstration purposes only.

              20210521_160050.large.jpeg

              20210521_155920.large.jpeg

              20210521_155935.large.jpeg

              #546196
              Howard Lewis
              Participant
                @howardlewis46836

                The H section provides the needed increase in height, and will be stiff for and aft, but not so rigid side to side

                I would suggest welding in some struts at the ends to turn it into two back to back boxes, plus some struts at the sides (Just narrow enough o allow access to the fixings )

                In this way the stiffness will increase, and any distortion from welding should be taken out when the top and bottom faces are machined.

                You could even take a skim along the top of the outer edges to use as a datum face, if thought likely ever to be needed. (For Vice alignment? )

                Howard

                #546198
                Danni Burns
                Participant
                  @danniburns84841

                  Thanks again Howard

                  The skimming of edge for a datum is a great painless idea. Will ease setting up.

                  I'll get the fixings in place and think about those struts. Not used the miller yet, but from comments I've seen about stability of the machine when milling, that may be the least of my problems.

                  Cheers

                  #547543
                  Danni Burns
                  Participant
                    @danniburns84841

                    Hi guys

                    I thought I would update on the Splash Guard.

                    20210528_142616.medium.jpeg

                    20210528_144551.medium.jpeg

                    I do beg your forgiveness for the bloody mess.

                    As you can see I'm trying to sort milling stuff out and looks like that I-section is looking well too high (and therefore the £80 Clarke block would be even less suitable). Looks like I need 4" height max if I'm going to use it as low as poss and locked-up to avoid vibrations – as it should be I guess.

                    Any comments – Im happy to take them onboard.

                    BTW – the Miller column/Collar could do with a bit of lub. Is the 68 Oil advised by David above OK for that as well?

                    Cheers

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