Yes, get "The Amateurs Lathe" by LH Sparey, It will give you advice on setting up the lathe and grinding tools.
Although a lot of what he shows refers to the Myford ML7, the book contains the basics, which are applicable to any lathe.
Another book that you will ,find useful, as a reference for all manner of things is Tubal Cain's "Model Engineer's ,Handbook"
Lathes UK, website is a huge mine of information.
Joining a local Model Engineering Society will bring you into contact with other enthusiasts, who will help with advice, and probably demonstrations of techniques and equipment.
The Drummond was never designed for Carbide tools, so stick with using High Speed Steel, would be my advice.
As you become more experienced, you will, need to add, if you do not already have,
a Bench Grinder
Measuring equipment (Callieper, Vernier, Dial or Digital. )
Vernier, you will need to learn to read a vernier scale (They are used on a lot of measuring instruments )
A Dial Calliper will show a reading, directly on a dial with reference to the scale on the main body.
Digital, has the advantage of the reading being immediately easily visible, and can be change by the press of a button from Imperial to Metric.The disadvantage is that the battery may well go flat just when you need it most! Keep a spare!
Then you will find a need for Dial Test Indicators, (Plunger types often graduated in 0.001" ) and Finger type (The generic type is Verdict ) usually graduated in 0.0005"
These will need to be mounted on a base, usually, nowadays, a Magnetic type. My preference is for the type without an adjuster on one of the stems, to maximise rigidity.
You will soon find a need for a Drill Chuck to go into the Tailstock
It may well be an advantage, if you have not already got them, Centres to fit into the Headstock and Tailstock.
As you will already know, the Drummond is an old British machine, so the threads and dials will be Imperial,
( BSW or BSF ). In the right hands, it is capable of turning out good work.
Having ground tools, it is important that they are mounted so that the cutting edge is on the centre line of the Mandrel. In this way, when you face the end of a bar, there will, be no "pip" in the middle. It is worth making a Centre Height Gauge. This can be an early learning exercise, whilst getting used to the lathe and to metal turning.
HTH
Welcome and Enjoy.
Howard