Newbe

[robin colemanParticipant @robincoleman77853]

1. Hello my name is Robin I am from Southampton.Ihave done a bit of lath work but am still learning especially sharpening he’s lathe tools .my other hobbies include restoring old lawnmowers and valve radios.i also collect some of the old model engineering mags I only have the model engineer workshop delivered so am not signed up for viewing old published issues.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Welcome Robin, you will find an interesting collection of skills here, if you have questions just ask – someone will have an answer ! Best wishes Noel.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Welcome Robin, many kindred spirits here.

I already need to pick your brains!  Last time I tried to mend a valve radio, I had trouble sourcing parts.  Still looking for an affordable 8 Henry choke for a 250V Power Supply.   Where do your parts come from?

Re sharpening lathe tools, you are not alone in finding it difficult!  Some lucky folk have natural talent, others, including me, sort of get there in the end after lots of practice, but the results ain’t pretty!   Carbide inserts are an alternative, and it’s possible to get excellent results on older lathes that don’t spin fast enough to get best results from carbide, by using the sharp inserts intended for non-ferrous alloys on steel.    Most of the time ordinary inserts work ‘well-enough’ on amateur lathers, but carbide is fussier about rpm, feed-rate, and depth of cut than HSS when a perfect finish is needed.

Dave

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Dave, for parts and info you cannot do better than subscribe to the UKVR forum website

Apart from the wealth of knowledge it is probably one of the best ‘run’ forums with 99.99% of members sticking to the rules (all sensible).

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/

Ian P

[Maurice TaylorParticipant @mauricetaylor82093]

Hi Dave ,Have a look at this site.

https://www.radiodaze.com/d-c-filter-159r-item-hc159r/

Maurice

 

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome Robin,

Try to find a model engineering club near you and join.

No doubt you will then be able to get advice, and possibly demonstrations face to face.

Do buy at least of the books on lathe work.

The oldest, centred on the Myford ML7, (biut the underlying principles remain the same, whatever the machine) is “The Amateur’s lathe” by LH Sparey.

Ian Bradley’s “the Amateur’s Workshop” is a useful book to have also.

Stan Bray’s “Basic Lathework” (Workshop Practice Series 45)ris a good book, and gives the angle to which tools should be ground for different materials

“Lathework – A Complete Course” (WPS 34) by Harold Hall is another possible source of information.

If you have a mini lathe, Dave Fenner and Neil Wyatt have written books specifically abouit their use (WPS 43) and (Crowiid Metalworking Guides)

You might find Harold Hall’s “Tool and Cutter Sharpening” (WPS 38) helpful.

Don’t get too humg up on exact tool angles. Just because the recommendation is 10 degrees, you won’t see much difference if you actually ground the clearanceto 8 degrees or 12; unless you are working in some more exotic material

Thye only time that tool angles are important is when you graduate to screwcutting.  Then you do need to grind the tool accurately to 55 or 60 degrees for the thread form.

FWIW, I never have top rake on a parting tool.  Ideally, they should be mounted inverted in a rear toolpost (If you can fit one to your lathe.  Difficult, but not totally impossible with a mini lathe)

Again, my advice would be to make a Tool Centre Height Gauge.  Useful practice, and saves time when mounting a tool.

Smaller threads can be cut using Taps and Dies, I made and use Tailstock mounted sliding Tap and Die holdersrs.  Allthough you might find a need to make and use a Mandrel Handle for the larger sizes, or for better control when working upto a shoulder.

Material suppliers; purely my choice: Toolbits – Arc Euro Trade Taps and Dies – Tracy Tools or The Tap and Die Company.

Tapping lubricants. Trefolex is one; I use Rocol RTD.

HTH

Howard

[robin colemanParticipant @robincoleman77853]

I have a small lorch instrument makers lathe so I can do odd little bits on it for odd bits I need for my other hobbies and a little bit of clock repair.

[robin colemanParticipant @robincoleman77853]

How do you set up a single toolpost up

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

With a single toolpost, you will only be able to use one tool at a time (Restrictive, possibly, but you will not be alone.  There are lots of lathes where the toolpost is intended to clamp just one tool mat a time. The essential things, stating the very obvious, are that whatever tool is in use should be sharp, and set to centre height. And ensure that the tools have clearance, because clamp type toolposts will allow you to set the tool at angle to the axis of the spindle, wrongly in most cases! This means grinding correctly (But don’t get too hung up on EXACT clearance angles. Unless you are dealing with sometghing unusual, you probably won’t notice the difference between 8 degrees and the recommended 10!)

A blunt tool won’t cut well, if at all, nor will it if off centre.

High Speed Steel will be the choice of toolbit to use on your lathe, Carbides are for larger, heavier and faster, nuch more modern machines.

If you are unsure of techniques, buy and read one or more books. Stan Bray’s “Basic Lathework”, Harold Hall “Lathework. A Complete Course”, L H Sparey “The Amateur’sLathe”.

Ian Bradley’s “The Amateur’s Workshop” is a good book to have as well; as well as a set of Zeus Charts.

Joining a local Model Engineering Club can be a help in learning.

You will be able to produce excellent work.

Like all machines, we generally work within the limits of our machines; but occasionally pass the boundaries to find new techiques, or methods not to use!

Just don’t get too brave and do damage!

Practice makes perfect.

Good luck!

Howard

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