Hi All
It’s been a while since I posted, a busy week here.
The design has had a few modifications.
Firstly the end support castings have been lengthened to 170mm and the location of the various shafts changed.
Provision has been made to shift the table laterally a total of 70mm 35mm each way from centre. I plan to have a fine adjustment for the lateral position similar to the Quorn – this is yet to be finalised. I am wrestling with the table angle indicator, the difficulty being that if the table moves sideways the angle indicator should not.
As shown below the clamping for the table is finalised; rather than using set screws that inevitably marr the shaft I have used self centering brass pincer collars. The outer one is threaded, the one closest to the knurled knob is not.
Additionally I plan to make it possible to shift the motor to one side when the motor pillar is finalised, it appears likely that many times the edge of the wheel should be near the centre of pivot.
I would be very interested to hear from MEW members who have built the Worden and use it. Is there ever a need to rotate the motor?
The adjustment knobs for both X and y turn an M12 * 1.75 shaft. There are 70 divisions on the graduated sleeves. There should be 68.8976 divisions for exactly fo .001 inches per graduation mark. I rounded to 70 divisions because it divides by 70 and 10 for the graduation marks to cover one rotation of the shaft.
The Y Axis thread should be reverse threaded to make it intuitive, easy enough to turn on the lathe. The nut (In the motor base), will be cast in epoxy so no problem making or sourcing a special tap.
Making the end support castings
Starting out with a flat base of melamine MDF, onto which a 1:1 printed copy of the side elevation plan for the parts was placed. this paper plan was then protected with “Baking film” a product suggested by my wife, it worked well : the epoxy did not stick to it.
Using this layout, a simple tray mould to contain the mix was cut and aligned carefully with the plan, using 50mm strips of melamine coated MDF.
This left the radiused corners. To form these, odd lengths of pipe I had to hand of the correct radius were used as formers. One was a little small so I wrapped a few layers of tape over it to bring it up to size. I also wrapped cling film around the pipes to stop them sticking to the epoxy body filler.
It was a simple matter to fill the corner with quick setting body filler then press the former (pipe) into the corner and wedge it. Some material squeezed out. The top was trowled off. The material squeezed out along the sides was not touched. After about 15 minutes the mix was “gel” set (still soft). The formers were removed and it was a simple matter to remove the still soft excess material. The small corners were simply trowled with a piece of rod to form the 6mm radius. After an hour the inside of the mould frame was sanded ready for casting.
I used PVA glue as a mould release applied neat, rubbing it in thoroughly with my finger, and when that was set I greased the sides as well. The base of the mould had already been protected as noted above.
It was decided to cast the Y axis bearings in situ using the Epoxy bearing material I developed previously.
Two pieces of rod cut to 170mm were tapped both ends to enable them to be carefully centered in the mould and clamped. Before the main cast these rods were greased and coated with bearing material. There is a difficulty here….The material tries to run off. I had to turn the casting for an hour before it started to gel. A heat gun would be handy here. It would reduce that time to 15 minutes or less.
A fair amount of force was required to remove the rods when the cast was set. I used a handy socket and a piece of M8 threaded rod to break the initial grip, once started using a punch (being careful not to touch the bore), the rods were driven out. Upon inspection the bores are shiny. Currently we have a heavy push fit. I will ease the bores slightly for a light push fit. I am guessing about .0001 inches will do it. After the casting has fully hardened over the next week it can be done.
Mild steel inserts were made from bar oddments I had to hand,
Leaving a 60mm length sticking out of the chuck I skimmed the OD, center drilled, drilled 12.5mm, faced, grooved with the parting tool and parted off in one setting.
There are 3 x 25mm and 1 by 35mm diameter inserts for each end casting.
The 12mm holes were made to enable the inserts to be securely bolted in position.
The next step will be to bore the inserts to the correct diameter on the mill.
Cast mix
1620 ML of oven dried fine washed sand
600ml Megapoxy HICB, normally used in rotary rock crushers (it contains about 60% fine silica powder), therefore our mix contained approximately 16.21% epoxy by volume.
A similar result could be obtained with plain epoxy and graded sand. The mix was a friable mass rather stiff. As shown in the photos we got a good casting with few blemishes. Not quite enough tamping to fill the voids that will need be attended to next time.
Finishing
As removed from the mould there were sharp corners and a few blemishes. A small hand grinder was used to remove the sharp corners and form the small radius edge abounding each side. It also made short work of tidying up any raised blemishes. The wheel used was a rather old flap wheel that had seen better days. Maybe this was an advantage as it was not as aggressive as a new wheel would be. There are a few blemishes that will be repaired prior to painting.
Continued next post…
Edited By John McNamara on 06/06/2011 08:45:13