Here's the circuit diagram from the manual:
![d3000circuit.jpg d3000circuit.jpg](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==)
Assuming the problem isn't confirmed by magic smoke from a cooked control board!
The manual says the brushes should be sanded down every 100 hours and the commutator cleaned. Plus advice to check in the event of a stoppage that the plugs and sockets haven't vibrated loose. If that's been done, I'd check the usual other mini-lathe weak-spots before rushing to change the motor or board:
- Check the safety cut-outs are all allowing power to reach the board:
- S10 – switch on chuck guard closed
- T2 – thermistor on motor closed
- S1 – Emergency cut-off reset, not popped open
- Confirm the speed control potentiometer is working – they often fail by going open circuit. A squirt of switch cleaner might get it going, or replace
The manual says the motor is single-phase, and the circuit shows 8 connections:
- Pair to Thermistor, disconnecting the mains if the motor gets too hot.
- Pair from Tachometer to board providing speed regulation. If this failed would the motor run fast, slow or not at all?
- Pair to K1 and K2. I guess these are the field winding and may be fused. If fused, this pair may be the main power input. Check for fuses – I don't recognise the circuit symbol, but it could be an inline fuse. I can't see anything else that might be a fuse,
- Pair to W1 and W2. I guess these feed the armature and are fed a control voltage from the power board.
The claim to be a single-phase motor might make sense if this was a simple triac triggered speed control circuit, but I don't understand what the brushes are for. They suggest a DC motor, or is there a type of AC motor with brushes?
Dave