ROTFL. I found out why Brian had so much trouble with the lead screw bushing popping out at one end and the leadscrew dog clutch exploding at the other.
The flamin' leadscrew is only up to 1/4" (6mm) out of alignment with the bed ways in the horizontal plane. No wonder the poor little things kept flying apart! To get it assembled, the leadscrew had to be bowed under pressure by 1/4". The lathe arrived at my workshop dismantled so I only discovered this on the final reassembly after I set up the carriage shims and got it gliding back and forth beeeyoutifully without the leadscrew installed. Then when I installed it and wound it back to the tailstock end, things became obvious. (Maybe the bed was ground slack at this end to make up for the binding lead screw?) Then when removing the dog clutch at the headstock end, the preloaded leadscrew went off like a Number 1 rabbit trap!
Check out the visible gap between the leadscrew and bed in the picture.
YOu can see it goes from a 1/4" gap at the carriage at the right, down to zero where it touches the bed at the other end. LOL! Tolerance for leadscrew alignment on a normal sized tool room lathe is to be within .004" (.01mm) of parallel to the bed ways. Only out by a matter of, ohh, let's say .246". Woeful.
But the solution is not too hard. The problem appears to be that pesky bushing at the right hand end is located about .060" (1.5mm) too far out away from the bed. The dog clutch and the threaded hole in the carriage the leadscrew (loosely) meshes with are in alignment. So I reckon the solution will be to turn up a brass bushing with the hole in the middle offset by the right amount, position it just right and drill the grub screw hole to locate it. Of course the grub screw hole is drilled a few mm off centre so that makes it a bit harder to do, but not impossible.
You can see the mess here: Note the large gap where the end of the leadscrew is sitting NEXT TO the hole in the bushing.

I gotta say, in 45 years or more of working on machinery ranging from sewing machines to submarines and a bit of just about everything in between, I don't remember working on such a shoddily built POS before. The ways being a bit out, well you can understand that on a machine built to a price, maybe. But this? This is pure BS.
Speaking of BS. I notice Optimum's website and catalogue claim the beds are induction hardened and precision ground. First time I have ever been able to easily file hardened steel or iron with a regular file, and very easily at then. About as hardened as your granny's derriere it is.
No I wouldn't buy one. My mate bought a 7×14 standard mini lathe off alibaba.com straight from a Chinese machine tool manufacturing company for about half of the price of the Optimum and it so far is working without a hitch. I'd take a punt on one of them before going for an Optimum. I think the German supervised quality control claims by Optimum are on par with their claims of hardened and precision ground bedways. Simply not worth paying the extra money for non-existent advantages.
I did notice too that the carriage on the Optimum still had the scriber marks on it where all the holes were marked out before drilling and tapping. No factory I ever worked in individually marked out and drilled mass production parts. Small workshops doing contract parts in small batches maybe. But a "proper factory" as Optimum claims to have would surely use CNC these days or at least have a drill jig that you just put the part in and drill all the holes in the right places without time consuming mark up.
Edited By Hopper on 03/11/2015 12:21:26