Myford super 7 saddle removal

[grahammarchParticipant @grahammarch]

hi all after my previous post regarding embedding magnetic scales on my cross slide, my next question is how difficult is it to remove the saddle of my Myford super 7 as I want to embed the encoder into the saddle but upon looking at removing the saddle it seems quite difficult as lead screw and apron will have to be removed first unless there is a simpler way to remove could someone advice me please please see pics to see what I plan to do thankyou 

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

I seem to recall that the saddle is unscrewed from the apron and can then be slid off the end of the bed, removing the apron only involves removing the right hand leadscrew bracket, none of it is difficult.

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

A while since I’ve done it but the apron can be left in situ, just undo the screws at the front of the saddle and it will be free from the apron.

Tony

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

I think thats ok for a std S7 but when it comes to a pdf S7 thats a whole different ball game as I found out when I did mine a few years ago.

[grahammarchParticipant @grahammarch]

Can you please elaborate on what you mean by PDF S7 removal? Compared to a standard S7

[john fletcher 1Participant @johnfletcher1]

Perhaps PDF is a tippo, should it be PCF  power cross feed ?

[grahammarchParticipant @grahammarch]

Hi ;John mine has got the power Cross feed. What problems am I likely to encounter? I was hoping to just undo those bolts and leave the apron in situ and slide the saddle off the end of the bed a little bit worried as I don’t want to bite off more then I can chew And End up with Parts All over the bed and not be able to Put back together

[John PurdyParticipant @johnpurdy78347]

The saddle on the S7 with PCF cannot just be slid off the bed by removing the 4 apron screws as the gear that drives the cross slide feed screw extends up into the saddle preventing it from moving sideways.

The easiest way to remove the saddle is to remove the 2 screws and 2 dowels holding the right hand lead screw bearing to the bed and to slide out the lead screw to the right, first removing any gears and spacers on the left end of the lead screw (also make sure you remove the key and put it in a safe place, otherwise it will disappear, don’t ask me how I know!). With the lead screw removed the four screws holding the apron to the saddle can be removed and the apron can be removed by dropping it down and twisting the bottom out away from the bed to slid the offending gear out from the saddle. The saddle can then be slid off the right end of the bed after removing the hand wheel index if fitted. Re-assembly is the reverse, but when re-installing the apron do not tighten up the 4 screws, leave them quite slack. After the lead screw is installed move the saddle to the extreme right of the bed and engage the clasp nuts on the lead screw. You can then fully tighten the 4 screws holding the apron to the saddle. This ensures that the apron is aligned with the lead screw and does not twist the lead screw when tightening the clasp nuts.

I have done it this way many times for cleaning up after a session with cast iron  and have found it by far the easiest way.

John

[grahammarchParticipant @grahammarch]

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation of removal of the saddle I believe this is something I should be able to do with a little patience and taking my time as I really want to embed the DRO encoder into the saddle as it will be a lot cleaner look for the Myford super 7 much appreciated

[John PurdyParticipant @johnpurdy78347]

One thing I didn’t mention, is when re-installing the lead screw, look down into the apron from the right and note the position of the internal key in the gear that lead screw drives for the PCF, then align the key way on the lead screw  with it so the lead screw will slid through the apron.

John

[John PurdyParticipant @johnpurdy78347]

One other thing, you may or may not have to slack off the adjusting screws for the gib on the front of the saddle that runs on the front of the front bed shear depending on how worn the shears are on the bed.

On my lathe I don’t have to, but the saddle is decidedly tighter sliding at the right hand end of the bed (lathe is 46 years old).

When putting the saddle back onto the bed make sure that loose gib is installed the right way around, there is a hole in it that fits on the dog point of one of the adjustment screws to restrain it from moving as the saddle is moved along the bed.

Actually it makes it easier to slid the saddle back onto the bed if the gib adjustment screws are backed right out, leaving the dog point one extended out sufficiently to engage the hole in the gib. That of course means the gib has to be re-set, but is quite easily done if done before installing the apron.

John

[ZanParticipant @zan]

It’s worth removing the apron .  I was amazed by all the rubbish in mine   A good clean out is a periodic essential maintenance task

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

It’s worth removing the apron .  I was amazed by all the rubbish in mine   A good clean out is a periodic essential maintenance task

I had to remove mine a few years ago and was also amazed at the amount of swarf etc that had accumulated  so I fashioned a cover from alloy sheet to close as much of the gap around the top of the LHS of the saddle over the lead screw. Works fairly well.  I think I saw on the Myford stand at the ME show they now produce a similar unit from pressed steel.

John

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