myford super 7 clutch

[jwbParticipant @jwb]

Robbo

Thank you for that excellent suggestion for safe removal of the clutch spring. I put it in my S7 notes immediately – hope I'll never need it but…

Regards

John

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

Hi Robbo, thanks but that makes absolutely no sense to me as the spring and push rod are trying to fly out of the inside of the countershaft away from the threaded end of the push rod not vice versa. There is no seperating force trying to push the drive plate away from the clutch plate that longer cap head screws can affect. The pair of allen cap head screws are simply there to stop the drive plate spinning.

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

Actually that pair of cap head screws are there to locate the drive plate centrally to the bore of the countershaft (the drive plate already has two lugs that slot into recesses in the clutch plate (clearly visible) to stop it swivelling.

[saif mohammadParticipant @saifmohammad21339]

Hello, I am new to this, I just bought Myford S7 serial number SK 66463 may be made 1963 – 1964. with industrial cabin, and coolent pump with Three phase motors .this lathe was really very much abused and neglected. I dismantiled the machine as i have done this sort of work on many ML7s with no clutches ten yeas ago . but the clutch on this machine puzzle's me. from reading threads above and other materials this machine may have latest or second type of clutch, any help to how to start this proccess of dismantilling the clutch and what I have to be aware of . i have downloaded the manual but it is not very clear and my eyes not that great. any help will be very much valued. cheers Saif

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

All sorted now. I removed the countershaft with clutch plate attached, gripped the thread in the aluminium jaws of my vice, twisted the pulley assembly to slacken of the push rod, then put the countershaft back in the housing locked in place with the circlip, with end blocked off by clutch lever in situ, released the push rod and spring completely, removed the countershaft, knocked the clutch plate out and cleaned it up (edges a bit gummy), reassembled back in the countershaft housing without the clutch lever in situ, partly drilled a square hollow bar to seat the end of a 5" rod pushing the push rod in, attached 2 G-clamps to the square bar either side of the push rod, and gently pushed in the push rod to the correct thread position turning the pulley by hand to wind on the thread, then some more in order to be able to be left with enough room at the clutch lever end to slide the clutch lever back in, then reassembled and slackened off the thread to correct position. Very simple really. The key really was the use of aluminium (or copper) soft jaws, and the understanding that the uncoiled spring still stays comfortably within the countershaft to enable easy recompression

Edited By Adam Harris on 20/04/2014 17:47:57

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