Myford Power Cross Feed Screws & Nuts

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

I purchased a nice Super 7 at Easter and am in the process of converting it from Metric to Imperial, a simple matter of component substitution which i have almost completed.

Regrettably Myford are out of stock of Imperial Power Cross feed screws and nuts. I first phoned shortly after purchase and was quoted 3-5 weeks for delivery which was fine, i have however reminded on several occasions and on the most recent call i was told they cannot give a date when stock will be available.

Before purchase and in deed prior to contemplating the purchase of this lathe i came accross an advert on the internet offering high quality replacement feed screws and with a bronze nut as i recall.

The purpose of my post is to see if anyone has a Power Cross Feed screw and nut available which must be in good order or direct me to a source of supply.

Robert Butler

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

[speelwerkParticipant @speelwerk]

You probably came accross these **LINK** , they are for a ML7 and I do not think they have a imperial version, but you can always ask. Niko.

Edited By speelwerk on 07/08/2016 23:23:17

Edited By JasonB on 08/08/2016 08:22:29

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Not sure if they do imperial sizes but I bought lengths of feed screw and nuts from Automotion Components.

When searching for a lead screw supplier some of the UK sites did list imperial. A bit of simple machining and I have two cross slide feed screws and nuts plus enough lead screw for a third spare all for around £70.

Google lead screw loads out there.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Whatever you buy (apart from a Myford spare) you will need to machine a drive slot along its length to engage with the drive pinion in the saddle.

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

Thank you for the replies to my posting, i am not sure if "Myford" will source replacement lead screws. i was hoping someone had a power cross feed lead screw and nut available to purchase.

The lead screws advertised on the link are metric and although available for the Super 7 are not power cross feed.

Robert Butler

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Try **LINK** http://www.latheparts.co.uk/

 

Or **LINK**    http://www.lathespares.co.uk/myford-super-7-spares

Edited By John Stevenson on 08/08/2016 11:32:30

[speelwerkParticipant @speelwerk]

The lead screws advertised on the link are metric and although available for the Super 7 are not power cross feed.

Robert Butler

Yes, but you asked where that advert was with the bronze nut. Under connoisseur spares Myford lists the imperial leadscrew as available. **LINK** Niko.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

http://www.latheparts.co,uk is an OK, have dealt with him in the past.

Not sure whether the Connoisseur and Super 7 screws are the same size.

[speelwerkParticipant @speelwerk]

Posted by KWIL on 08/08/2016 12:39:28:

http://www.latheparts.co,uk is an OK, have dealt with him in the past.

Not sure whether the Connoisseur and Super 7 screws are the same size.

I stand to be corrected, but as far as I know they have the same saddle. Niko.

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

Dear Niko and others who have responded, i have checked with Myford and whilst it may be possible to use the Connoissueur screw substitute parts are required as the design differs and they are also out of stock.

Other sources as yet have not produced results, thank you all however and any other suggestions gratefully received.

Robert Butler

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Suggest you leave the metric one in and fit a DRO system, then you can work in either.

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

Thank you all for your help, i have now successfully obtained a new imperial power cross feed screw and nut.

Robert Butler

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Duncan,

I'm m with you.

The one and only positive for changing back to Imperial is in thread cutting imperial thread forms. As you say, better to have learned metric – sooo much easier! Imperial measurements are only useful for converting imperial drawings to, say, 1/4 scale as far as I can see. Any particular length, area or volume will be the same length, area or volume whatever units one might specify. It will not change just because one calls the units something else.

Most 'imperial ' bearings have been metric ones for years, the Americans reportedly missed Mars with one probe due to someone using an incorrect factor for converting their units to metric (yes, space travel calculation/iterations are done by computer using metric numbers, not feet and inches!). What about degees in a circle, for instance? Used in both systems but derived from what? Multiple factors is one suggestion. Perhaps we should adopt radians or even astronomical space unit these days. All have their place in science, but some are better than others in different fields. Railway lines – the width of two horse's rear ends? The furlong – how far a couple of oxen could drag a plough before needing a rest (while turning around). Even the Fahrenheit scale of temperature was a current unit, at the time, adjusted for a different zero point (which does not hold true innthe light of scientific development – zero Fahrenheit is no longer the lowest temperature attainable).

My lathe uses Imperial scales, but my vertical mill is metric. Makes no odds (apart from screw cutting) when dro's are fitted. Remember, too, that 'thous' are metric in nature (powers of ten).

[Enough!Participant @enough]

I'm confused …. the OP seems to be talking about a (Power) cross feed screw while several responses seem to be referring to (Z-axis) leadscrews.

[Richard Black 2Participant @richardblack2]

Hello there,

Sorry to be joining on an old post but would be very grateful if anyone could tell me the dimensions of a super7 power feed cross slide nut and screw please?

I have a Warco 720 (super7 Taiwanese copy) which is not a bad lathe but the nut seems to be worn and I would like to try and find out if the Myford one will fit.

I would be very grateful if anyone could help please.

Thank you very much,

Richard.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Posted by Richard Black 2 on 24/03/2020 12:32:26:

Hello there,

Sorry to be joining on an old post but would be very grateful if anyone could tell me the dimensions of a super7 power feed cross slide nut and screw please?

I have a Warco 720 (super7 Taiwanese copy) which is not a bad lathe but the nut seems to be worn and I would like to try and find out if the Myford one will fit.

I would be very grateful if anyone could help please.

Thank you very much,

Richard.

I too have one of those, but unfortunately can't assist with the query as my real S7 is pre Power xFeed
I don't suppose yours came with a manual did it?

Hello and Welcome by the way.

p.s. I can confirm that the 33/34 tooth gear wheel addition works OK for cutting metric threads, though I needed to get a genuine Myford drive gear to mount them on.

Bill

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Here's a photo of the LS off my S7+ (big bore). Nut is steel, OD 0.904", Flange OD 1.62", across flat 0.865. LS dia is 0.5, this is 2 mm pitch. Length of thread is ~8". Normally the gear (which has an internal key mating with a keyway you can't see in the photo) goes the other side of the nut and engages with the PXF mech in the apron. I don't use this because my lathe is CNC converted and has a ballscrew, but I'm keeping it with the lathe in case the next owner wants to go back to manual.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Just to add that the LOA of the nut is 1.25 and the flange is 5/32 thick (I think).

[Richard Black 2Participant @richardblack2]

Thank you Bill and John,
Sorry about the delay thanking you but my last attempt to post failed.
I am afraid I don't have a manual for the Warco Bill but thanks for the info about screw cutting. What do you think of your machine? I am also a bit puzzled about lubricating it. I have stripped some of it down and cleaned the grease out of the gearbox and replaced all that with oil but obviously have kept the taper roller bearings on the spindle greased (new bearings). I haven't stripped out the saddle to clean out grease yet but am assuming I clean all the grease out and replace it with oil and keep regularly oiling it. Is that what you do?
Thanks John for the very detailed dimensions for the screw and nut. That should furnish me with all I need to decide if the Myford one will work. I will post back when I have checked it all out. Unfortunately it looks like Myford have shut down as I can't get any response from them. I know Warco are shutting down shortly but they don't have any spares for the old Taiwanese Myford copies.
Thanks again to both of you.
Keep safe,
Richard.

[Richard Black 2Participant @richardblack2]

Thank you Bill and John,
Sorry about the delay thanking you but my last attempt to post failed.
I am afraid I don't have a manual for the Warco Bill but thanks for the info about screw cutting. What do you think of your machine? I am also a bit puzzled about lubricating it. I have stripped some of it down and cleaned the grease out of the gearbox and replaced all that with oil but obviously have kept the taper roller bearings on the spindle greased (new bearings). I haven't stripped out the saddle to clean out grease yet but am assuming I clean all the grease out and replace it with oil and keep regularly oiling it. Is that what you do?
Thanks John for the very detailed dimensions for the screw and nut. That should furnish me with all I need to decide if the Myford one will work. I will post back when I have checked it all out. Unfortunately it looks like Myford have shut down as I can't get any response from them. I know Warco are shutting down shortly but they don't have any spares for the old Taiwanese Myford copies.
Thanks again to both of you.
Keep safe,
Richard.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Richard, lubrication, and main bearing adjustment, was the reason I was wondering if you had a manual.

I gave the main spindle bearings a squeeze from a grease gun when I got it; the previous owner had already started cleaning it up when he decided to sell it.
They are rough round the edges, and certainly not as well finished as the genuine article, but it seems to work well enough.
If mine's anything to go by, be careful with the clutch; my one was downright dangerous as it would occasionally just engage itself. I dis a bit of work on the camming release engage lever and it's now a more positive action.
Like you I wasn't happy with the cross feed spindle, but I've not replaced it.
I smartened up the handle end of the cross slide screw, and re-bored the black support bracket to suit, as well as making a new collar adjusting nut. The grub screw worked directly on the threaded section, so now has a nylon pad.
I can also confirm that a Myford Taper Turning attachment fits OK, though the bed casting is tapped metric, rather than BSF.

I was in the process of a very slow house move (2 1/2 years) and the workshop largely remained in Sheffield; various machinery, with a pre-power X feed S7 changewheel machine as the lathe.

I spotted the 720 advertised locally and was seduced by the gearbox, power X feed and a brand new inverter motor package. It came at a good price and was installed in the new house in Buxton.
The old house is now sold and the workshop moved over here, so I have the Warco and the genuine S7 here, as well as a more recently acquired Warco GH1330 for bigger stuff.
The real S7 will go eventually, it's a bit worn and was originally painted in blue Hammerite, which I've now scraped off, and bought a tin of grey paint.
The cabinet will have to stay blue for the time being.

Bill

[Richard Black 2Participant @richardblack2]

Sorry Bill,

Didn't see this on the next page!

I dismantled the spindle to check the bearings as I realised I hadn't lubricated it for a very long time. I was rather amazed to find the taper rollers in fairly good condition with minor signs of wear and still grease in them.

I replaced the bearings with the same make and number which was ridiculously cheap and cleaned it all up and put it back together. I haven't re greased the bearings yet as I am nervous about overdoing it and getting grease everywhere. The minor irritation is the lack of any flats or similar on the threaded collar to adjust the spindle bearings. I wasn't sure whether or not to put a pre load on them. In the end, I just set them up with no play but no pre-load. Seems ok.

I did find that the gearbox had been greased rather than oiled but all seems to be in good condition. I have cleaned out all the grease and keep the box topped up and pump oil into the grease nipples now. It will be interesting to see if it is better.

I haven't stripped the saddle yet so have no idea what has been used for lubricating that. I suspect it is full of grease though.

I agree about the clutch. A bit scary and I haven't relied on it. I will try your idea and see if it is better.

The other thin about it is the feed lever on the saddle. Mine has a spring and a clip to stop it dropping into gear and engaging the drive. It really does do that and it is scary.

I saw the grub screw through the collar on the cross slide goes onto the thread and I can't get it off at the moment due to damage to the thread. It is all on hold a bit at the moment as I can't get the imperial nut (mine is brass or bronze and quite worn) as Myford are closed due to the virus. A chap has a nut and lead screw on ebay but it is over £120 and metric which I don't really want.
Does yours have roll pins at an angle locating the cross slide lead screw bracket? I managed to get it off but don't see how you are supposed to without forcing it which is what I did. To put it back, I will get them out and fit the bracket and tap them in again.

I saw a neat mod for it using thrust roller bearings on either side of the bracket to eliminate back lash but also allow free movement without drag. I might do that when I rebuild it. Also need the washer between the lead screw handle and the micrometer dial. Currently it locks it up when you tighten the handle.

I bought mine about 30 years ago when my workplace replaced the Warco with a genuine Super 7. It had been fairly abused for a few years by the workshop before I got it but it is still pretty good. I only paid £75 for it! I have finally decided to rebuild the bits that needed it.

Thanks for the info.

Richard.

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