Myford 254s spindle nose specifiaction

[Putney manParticipant @putneyman]

Just bought a 254s (not delivered yet), it has the 3 bolt (non camlock) spindle nose fitting, what is the actual specification of this – as I need to purchase some chucks and a faceplate.

[Putney manParticipant @putneyman]

Whats the nose fitting for the bolt on spindle version

[Nigel BennettParticipant @nigelbennett69913]

According to the lathes.co.uk site,

"The spindle was bored through to clear 26 mm, fitted with a 4 Morse nose and came with a choice of a B.S.4442-A3 or (at extra cost) a D1-3" camlock nose as commonly used on small industrial lathes. Both fittings allowed accessories to be mounted close to the front bearing with the minimum of overhand and, while the B.S. nose required chucks and backplates with 3 inconvenient studs and nuts to fasten them in place, at least it uses the same tapered spigot as the more convenient D1 fitting and so allows accessories to be made or adapted with comparative ease should factory parts ever dry up. "

[Putney manParticipant @putneyman]

I read that, and, (I'm a beginner here), does this mean that its a camlock d1-3 nose (in terms of taper and size, BUT, instead of the cams to quick attach / release the chucks – you need to get the spanner out? – Also – in practical terms – I haven't got a google hit on a B.S.4442-A3 compatible faceplate or chuck, what should I be searching for? – Sorry to be a bit dense here…..

[Old SchoolParticipant @oldschool]

Hi

PM sent

Olly

[alan-lloydParticipant @alan-lloyd]

Hi, I have a 254 plus and I bought any back plates that I needed from Warco and the studs from Myford. The back plates from Pratt Bernard are very expensive, shop around. Regards Alan

[dominic54Participant @dominic54]

Hello all,

Also completely new here, and to lathes as a whole, so please be gentle! I’m in the same boat as @putneyman 10 years ago – I’ve bought a Myford 254s with the non-camlock spindle. Was this solved? It’s come with both 3 and 4 jaw scrolling 125mm chucks, but I’d like (a) a larger 180+mm 4 jaw independent and (b) a 200ish mm faceplate, which I’m finding very difficult to source. If I understand the info from lathes.co.uk correctly the solution seems to be to purchase D1-3 chucks/plates and remove the camlock studs, replace them with 9/16 threaded bar, and everything should come together. It’s an expensive process if I’m wrong though – can anyone shed any light? @oldschool posted a PM above but I’m not sure what the outcome of that was. Thanks, Dominic.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

I’m fairly sure the nuts holding the chuck on are M10, and the tapped holes in the backplate are some other thread that I’ve forgotten. As mine is a metric lathe I bought some long bolts with the backplate thread and screwcut M10 into the unthreaded bit. Finished off with a die

As I’ve now got ELS I could have done both, but let’s make life easy.

The spec for D1-3 is on line, from memory I think you’re right but it’s a fair while since I bought onr

[dominic54Participant @dominic54]

Thanks Duncan, that makes sense. Mine’s metric too and the studs as they go through the spindle flange are indeed M10. Good idea on modding bolts to mate into the D1-3 stud holes.

I’ll hold off attacking it in case anyone has a definitive answer on the D1-3 compatibility (particularly taper fit, and bolt circle?) but off to a good start… cheers.

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

The modern equivalent of the Standard for the spindle nose is ISO702. Part I deals with camlock; part II deals with non-camlock (bolts, studs, bayonet). Both parts of the ISO standard can be found as pdfs online.

For completeness, the grand-daddy standard is ASME B5.9. The ISO Standard is identical to the US one, with the dimensions converted to metric and fastener threads substituted for equivalent metric ones. The ASME one includes the L-series tapers (e.g. Harrison 140), which has never found its way into an ISO Standard.

For A- and D- series, the taper is identical in every case.

See: https://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page8.html and https://www.smartlathe.com/blogs/lathe-spindle-nose-identification-chart

[Jonathan RichardsParticipant @jonathanrichards78237]

I have recently gone in the opposite direction, buying a used Myford 254 specific 7″ Pratt Burnerd 4-jaw chuck, taken from a non-camlock machine, and modifying it to use on my camlock 254. The [intergral] back plate already had provision for the cam stud ‘locking’ set screws so I simply extracted the threaded mounting studs, substituted them with the correct cam lock studs and added some securing set screws. It then fitted my camlock spindle perfectly.

I therefore can see no reason why a D1-3 backplate could not just have the set screws and cam studs extracted and threaded fittings inserted into the stud tappings, as already advised. There is, however, one further wrinkle: PB and the like use imperial threaded camlock studs whereas Chinese D1-3 fittings from Warco, RDG etc use metric threads for the studs. I suspect that the latter would make life easier in the longer term.

Best of luck with the 254; I have never regretted buying mine.

[David Walker 16Participant @davidwalker16]

The D1-3 taper is definitely correct. The studs that fit into the chuck or faceplate are 10 x 1mm thread

I bought 60mm long 10 x 1mm bolts cut them down and threaded the plain shank to suit the holding  nuts

[dominic54Participant @dominic54]

Great – thank you everyone. This gives me some confidence to shell out for Camlock parts, with a view to modifying them for the stud fittings. It sounds like it’s going to be straightforward. @jonathanrichards78 that makes sense – I can just omit the set screws and make use of the camlock stud holes. I’ll definitely look out for metric threaded plates/chucks if I can – though as @davidwalker16 says I’ll likely be rethreading the end of the fixings to suit either the chuck or the spindle.

The lathe is in pieces being polished, filled and fettled at the moment, so I’ve got some time to sort this out!

[dominic54Participant @dominic54]

Just coming back to confirm, in case anyone else stumbles on this looking for answers: I’ve had success mounting a D1-3 chuck to the standard 254s spindle. It was very straightforward in the end. Just take out the setscrews for the camlock studs, and unscrew the studs themselves. These, on my chuck, are threaded M10x1mm. So it was just a case of cutting down some M10x1 threaded rod to a suitable length to fully engage with the chuck and leave enough to clear the spindle nose flange and back nuts. It worked out to about 65mm for me, but depends how deep the threading is on your chuck/faceplate/whatever. I’ve installed these studs into the back of the chuck with loctite; then, pass the assembly through the spindle nose holes, and fit M10x1mm nuts to the back. Gives a great secure fit and runs perfectly true.

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