My little engine (continued)

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Garry,

Further to Jason's post:

I find these 'Swan Neck' clamps useful on the rotary table, because they need less packing.

MichaelG.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks Michael, they do look very useful for the rotary table – they are now on my list and I'll be ordering some next time I buy from RDG..

Cheers

Garry

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Garry You could always make some clamps like those Just a bit more playng about on the mill

Roy

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by roy entwistle on 05/08/2015 11:51:03:

Garry You could always make some clamps like those Just a bit more playng about on the mill

Roy

.

I can't do drop-forging on my mill

MichaelG.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 05/08/2015 12:33:05:

.

I can't do drop-forging on my mill

MichaelG.

Me neither. But I do drop a lot of bollux when using mine.

Coming along in a grand fashion Garry.

Nick

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Michael G They don't have to be drop forged they can be cut from MS bar I can't understand why people buy clamps mandrels and lots of other bits they could make themselves

Probably me being a bit tight but the experience of making things in some cases must be useful

Roy

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

It comes down to a time choice thing for me Roy, and I'm still terribly slow in getting things done at the moment which doesn't help of course..

and cheers Nick – its very slow progress but I'll get there in the end…!

I've got the lugs tidied away now, it was not such a bad job by hand and quite enjoyable once I got going… A few wayward marks but not too bad..

Cheers

Garry

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by roy entwistle on 05/08/2015 13:14:33:

Michael G They don't have to be drop forged they can be cut from MS bar I can't understand why people buy clamps mandrels and lots of other bits they could make themselves

.

Roy,

In this particular case it's because [assuming that the current stock is as good as they were about fifteen years ago] they represent excellent value.

There's plenty of other things to make out of MS bar.

… Each to his own opinion.

MichaelG.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Garry_C on 05/08/2015 13:32:30:

I've got the lugs tidied away now, it was not such a bad job by hand and quite enjoyable once I got going… A few wayward marks but not too bad..

.

Very tidy, Garry … and quite therapeutic, a few hours peaceful filing.

MichaelG.

[Gas_mantle.Participant @gas_mantle]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 05/08/2015 13:59:44:

Very tidy, Garry … and quite therapeutic, a few hours peaceful filing.

MichaelG.

Yea, I quite agree it's therapeutic.

As someone who doesn't own a mill (yet) I do quite a lot of it and to be honest it's one of the tasks I enjoy most !

If the weather is decent I'll sit outside on my picnic chair with radio and cuppa and could happily file all day.

Peter.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Things must be looking up for me to get a nice comment about my filing, thanks Michael, thats the first one ever..! I used to leave a terrible trail of destruction behind my file when I first started and would do anything to avoid using it – its definitely one of those things that gets more enjoyable the better you become I think, I do quite enjoy it now..

Garry

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

In work shop training when I joined the Air Force, our Flights first exercise, was to file a block of hot rolled steel flat, square, and parallel, our instructor told us that in years gone by it would have been a lump of brass, but owing to budget cuts……. actually I found that to get a good polished finish on the steel was not too easy at first. I still use the file instead of the milling machine, it's often quicker, because there are times when you can take 1/2 an hour to set up for a 2 minute job.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Ian, I wonder how the training today compares with yours, not as good I'll bet..

Just a few quick photos of making a start getting the cylinder studs in – the bottom ones anyway..

(don't worry I'll not post each one going in – just another one at the end though when there're done..!)

Checking how deep to drill – the Cylinder cover is 6.5mm and I need to drill 5mm for the Stud threads, so plenty of room this time. Although again I can't use a taper tap to start the threads and have had to grind the end off my 2BA Plug Tap..

Not really enough room for the point on a standard drill so I'm using a 4mm Slot Mill for the tapping holes..

and I'll counterbore the cover at the same time – the holes near the Standard mounting had to have it done just to fit..

I don't think it will notice and looks ok though..

2BA Stud – 5 more to go..

I'm just handholding to open the cover out to clearance size, on top of the vice was the most stable way I found to do it – so its not resting on the spigot and trying to move..

I'll post a another photo when they are all in – although one will be a screw countersunk into the bottom cylinder cover over the Standard mounting..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 07/08/2015 11:31:54

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

The bottom Cylinder Cover studs are in now..

All six holes spotted through – one of the Studs below will be a 2BA screw….

Quite a deep counterbore in the Cover 'arm' and I needed to make sure I had room to tighten the nut..

The bottom Cylinder cover in place on the Steam Cylinder..

(I had to open out the hole in the arm to 4.9mm but all the others stayed at 2BA Clearance Size…)

Cheers

Garry

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

I'll be having a go at the Cylinder Top Cover next….

The Steam Cylinder Top Cover Drawing.

The Steam Cylinder Top Cover casting 1.

The Steam Cylinder Top Cover casting 2.

Ready to start machining on the Lathe after a bit of cleaning up with a file.. Starting with the chucking spigot..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 11/08/2015 17:25:27

Edited By Garry_C on 11/08/2015 17:25:53

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

I've made a bit of a start today, just the chucking spigot to remove and turn the other side before drilling. I used my knife tool thinking it would make a 'sharper' job of the corners compared to my carbide inserts and I think it has and all the sizes are good – but the finish is pretty bad. I think maybe my knife tool needs more of a radius on the point…Unless perhaps there was a bit of chatter going on and I should have used a centre for support.

also thought I would do as Jason suggested and secure the Piston with a nut and so do away with the screwdriver slot on top of the Piston when I come to make it – hence the hole bored in the cover to allow for it.

Cheers

Garry

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

There was a bit more to this to get it look ok than I first thought – I really should learn to quit while I'm ahead..

This was me finished earlier, until drilling tomorrow – the shoulder onto the large flat was not quite true I'hadn't taken it back enough after reversing in the chuck – it was nothing really hardly noticeable and I wouldn't have thought a problem for this 'fixed' part….

but no I couldn't leave alone and had to sort it out – ended up with this….!

I'll see what it looks like after drilling and spot facing with the nuts in place – if it looks too odd with the nuts 'in' the step I'll redo (before drilling the cylinder).. It may yet look ok though I hope…

I don't have a radius attachment and so had to do the 'dome' just by eye – used the HSS round nose tool I made earlier..

Cheers

Garry

[BERT ASHTONParticipant @bertashton57372]

I can't see anything at all wrong with your top cover, a nice piece of machining,

keep up the good work, not long now to bring finished.

Bert Ashton.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Garry, on a full size engine the area withing the machined outer ring would often  just have been left as cast so you did not need to be ultra critical of the edge.

Bert, I suspect the nuts will overhang the machined surface as its a bit too narrow now and is why Garry is having to spot face the surface.

 

J

Edited By JasonB on 13/08/2015 14:57:53

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks Bert, finishing still seems a long ways off yet…

Jason, I still haven't been to have a look around first hand yet but I've just spent some time looking at some old photos on the net and yes I see what you mean, and so many different types…. I've bookmarked some good links now which I can see will be good to refer to sometimes for comparisons while building… should have thought to do it before as it's bound to be very useful…

Cheers

Garry

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

A couple of photos of setting up and drilling the Steam Cylinder Top Cover..

In checking how accurate I had set the Rotary Table up the dti was showing 5 thou out over one revolution of the table – I don't know how good or bad that is for my 'budget' equipment…. I know its not critical for the Cover Holes but its useful to know.. I can't seem to get the Rotary Table closer than 0.01mm each time with my Co Axial Indicator – I guess this will help to exaggerate the chuck run out as well.. (The chuck jaws were lightly centred around a bar in the Mill collet chuck after centring the table – ie. to centre the chuck on the table…)

[I'll have to try and do a better job with the Co Ax Indicator and that may help]

Anyway may be interesting to look back on for comparison..

Drilling and Spot Facing the Steam Cylinder Top Cover..

The Cover after drilling – I'm hoping it won't look too bad with the studs in as well – some of the nuts in the Stewart pack seem very poor quality with holes off centre. These are some of the better ones here in the photo..

I'll probably drill the Cylinder next for the Studs..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 14/08/2015 15:55:42

Edited By Garry_C on 14/08/2015 16:16:58

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

I would use a piece of bar a bit more substantial than what you are using now Garry. Perhaps about 15mm dia.

You could use the outside bottom of the chuck also.Also try to make the dti. arm lengths as short as possible. It all looks good so far and you are doing a pretty good job.

Clive

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Garry I assume you are using the co-ax indicator in the MT socket of the table, have you checked the socket is true to the table rotation, just put the dti against the side of the taper and wind it 360degrees.

J

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Clive

Thanks, a few good tips there, they do look obvious after reading your post and looking at the photo – but I must admit that I hadn't thought about them..!

I used to use the outside of the chuck for centering but saw a few negative comments about this, I would be interested to hear why the bottom of the chuck would be ok to use though – although in future I would continue to use the method above (but with a larger diameter bar etc) as its much easier and quicker..

Cheers Clive

Garry

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Jason

Yes I'm using the co-ax indicator in the central socket of the table, I think its just a 'straight' central hole and not a MT (it was quite a cheap one) – but I understand what you are saying and will do – it may reveal a lot of course, I really should have thought to check that..! Thanks.

Cheers

Garry

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