My little engine (continued)

[julian atkinsParticipant @julianatkins58923]

and to add to Jason's excellent description, mill or scallop with a dremel a recess in the cover spigots adjoining the entry of the steam passage to the bore so the steam can get in at the start of each stroke.

cheers,

julian

[Raymond Sanderson 2Participant @raymondsanderson2]

I thought I'd leave coming back to see how this was going for a while. My first visit was on page 4 we are now up to page 18. I can see I'll have to spend some time going through to catch up. It's looking good with the quick flick through I just did.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Julian, thanks and will do.

Hi Ray, hope you enjoy..

Seems I'm volunteered to go to the workshop via the Garden Centre this morning..

The Cylinder Drawing, sorry its a bit oily..

and the Steam Cylinder casting with the cast iron bar supplied for the Piston.

Cheers

Garry

 

Edited By Garry_C on 25/07/2015 08:31:35

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Garry_C on 24/07/2015 20:58:11:

[the height to the piston rod shoulder from the surface of the bottom cylinder spigot at TDC is 51.25mm.]

Edited By Garry_C on 24/07/2015 21:02:51

Aim to make the cylinder 2.892" long in that case if there is enough material on the casting, failing that make to drawing and the piston thickness can be adjusted.

As Julian says a bit of easing of the cylinder cover also helps

[Gas_mantle.Participant @gas_mantle]

Wow that's going to be a formidable engine when it's complete.

It only when you see it next to something familiar you get to appreciate it's size and complexity.

A build to be proud of

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by Peter Nichols on 25/07/2015 09:05:12:

Wow that's going to be a formidable engine when it's complete.

.

It certainly is.

I think these were intended to be originally a small 'real' engine that worked for it's living and not just a display item.

As such what size of boiler would be required for work over display.?

Nice going Gary.

Nick

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Jason

Thanks, I think it will be touch and go for that length, there may just about be enough, I'll face down as little as possible to get square and see – but ok will make to the drawing if not, I'm going to have a look after and hoping I will be able to get it into the 4 jaw with the jaws reversed (not holding in the bore)… I'm trying to catch the last bits of Le Tour as well, its been a great watch this year..

Hi Peter

Am loving every bit of it..! Stuarts gives 1/2 bhp as the 'output power' figure although I guess that would be for a very well made one..

Hi Nick

Thanks, good to hear from you. I have come across a few examples of the engines working for a living when looking on the internet. Stuarts give a working pressure of 60psi.. I'll probably get one of their larger boilers if I can get it finished and running – I can use to power the next engine then as well..

A 'Stuart no. 1' powered Steam Boat…!

Cheers

Garry

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

You'll be able to power your lathe with it to build the next one

Ian S C

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Only in my dreams Ian..!

Jason's drawings have inspired me to try and get to grips with being able to at least produce something presentable when needed and so been playing around with google sketch up – its a freebie and not an engineering package but I can at least now produce simple dimensioned drawings with it quickly, its a start… Not perfect but easy to get going- just in case others may be interested. This took about a minute to do..

Back to the real thing now..

Cheers

Garry

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

I've not posted for a while so just to say I'm still at it, had a bit less time than usual past few days – not much more done with the Cylinder other than to get both flange ends square to one another and the as yet unmachined port face. One flange to width, just started with its diameter and will be ok for the 2.982" overall length.The bore seems a fair bit off centre and there are some big flat spots on the cast flange diameter, I have it set with the flange running true as poss and the port face square – so I'm hoping its going to be right when I bore it shortly.

and my Piston Rings have arrived..

The first flange machined square but not yet to width..

Just the Flange diameter to finish and then to bore with the same setting (the end is now faced to size with this setting) – so this end will be the true one that will sit on the Bottom Cylinder Cover..

I'm going to mill the port face square when the time comes..

Cheers

Garry

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Garry You can't bore the cylinder with the set up in your picture     You will hit the chuck face,  unless the bore of the chuck is greater than the bore of the cylinder      Personally I wouldn't be happy with the chuck jaws sticking out that distance either     Go carefully

Roy

Edited By roy entwistle on 30/07/2015 13:11:49

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

You could always reverse the jaws but the best way would be to bolt the cylinder to the faceplate with suitable packing behind.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Roy

Yes it's not ideal but I thought much easier and more accurate than I would likely get with the faceplate, I always take very light cuts, I haven't even so much as tried a heavy cut on anything yet – my boring bar does have enough room to get through, its not a very good angle to be able see that in the photo – I'm hoping it will be ok with care… I'm more worried that I have it set true enough though, I'm happy with the flange running true just surprised the bore is so noticeably out to it.. I'll find out all tomorrow.

Cheers

Garry

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi David

I thought to try with the jaws reversed first of all but found I could get more of the jaws in contact with them the right way round – surprisingly. First sign of trouble I will get the faceplate out..! I'll try and take a few short video's…

Thanks and cheers

Garry

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As you have not faced the other flange you should be able to bore it as it is now and stop just shy of the chuck, the facing of the other flange will remove any of the bore that you left.

To be safe set up a carrage stop so you don't go in too far as it woun't be easy to see the end of the bar. A stud from your mill clamping set and a couple on nuts locked onto teh ends will do the job, just laid on the front ways

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Jason

I don't believe it..! I've been looking for some kind of carriage stop since day one, I even bought one from ARC that didn't fit (entirely my fault that) – just gone and had a look at what you suggest and yes of course that can be set with the compound slide or just nuts adjusted etc (I've got some long 'joiners'. In the past I've just put a bit of tape on the bar as an early warning – to save watching the hand wheel all the way..

The bar I thought to use has a flat end so hardly needs come through at all sand there is 1/4" gap to the chuck, so no prob.. Much safer with something solid in place though of course. Great tip again.. I was surprised that I couldn't find one [carriage stop] at Warco as it seems such a useful thing to have..

Thanks – no idea where the smiley came from….

Garry

 

Edited By Garry_C on 30/07/2015 15:19:38

Edited By Garry_C on 30/07/2015 15:20:44

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

The boring all went very well and interesting to do – apart from ending up about 6 thou oversize in the overall cylinder length everything else is good, but I can always sort that later if need be…

Setting up to machine the Steam Cylinder.

Checking the Steam Cylinder bore. Managed to get the final size to within 1 thou of the 2 inch bore.

Test fitting the bottom Cylinder Cover – the spigot was almost a push fit, no movement at all, it couldn't have fitted any better I think.. The Cover is slightly larger in diameter than the Cylinder end to accommodate the Cylinder lagging..

The Steam Cylinder so far and ready to be removed from the Lathe for Milling the Port face.. The 'lugs' I'll do with the Rotary Table on the mill as well..

The Steam Cylinder bored to size.

About 6.5 thou I think oversize for the overall length..

A few seconds video – starting to bore the steam Cylinder. You can see and hear that the bore was slightly out in setting the flange to run true.. But its all come out spot on.. 15 thou cut.

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 31/07/2015 18:47:13

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Just Milled down the port face square and to the 1/3/4" distance to the bore centre today.. Its spot on 90 degrees to the flanges..

I'd been thinking i would just pop it in the vice and mill to do this but no it was too big – was bit wary of this setup but it turned out to be fine and no hint of any problems, light cuts again..

Milling down the Steam cylinder Port Face – not yet down to size in this photo.. But it is done now..

I don't yet know if there is any significance of the 'raised' rectangular section which is off centre – its shown off centre in the drawing as well. I have taken equal amours off both flanges and the ports are spot on in the middle of the face so I think its ok.. The flanges are the same width..

Cheers

Garry

[Gas_mantle.Participant @gas_mantle]

Nice work Garry, it's coming along great

Just to satisfy my curiosity what size bore and stroke is it ?

Peter

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Peter

Thanks, its a 2 inch Bore and 2 inch Stroke..

While i think of it, you remember the CAD software we were talking about – I convinced myself a few days ago that I'd stumbled on something really useful in Sketchup but now i'm not so sure. Remembering its free – you can import jpegs / photos and dimension in seconds but also it will scale the photo – so for example say you take a photo of a steam engine then just by knowing one accurate dimension (flywheel maybe) you can import the photo, tell sketch up the flywheel is x feet / inches and it will dimension everything else accurately..! I'm sure that kind of thing must have its uses somewhere – and it takes seconds to do…

Ever so slightly miffed today – one of the lines in my Spindle Speed readout on the mill went…no big deal I guess..

Anyways I have to go..

Looking forward to seeing that boiler..!

Cheers

Garry

[Gas_mantle.Participant @gas_mantle]

It sure is a meaty looking engine, I love to be able to have a bash at something like that.

It's a pity you don't live closer I'd let you try my boiler to try your engine once I've made it. I can't imagine it would have enough power to but it would be fun to try it

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Peter

Stuarts spec says 60psi working pressure but I guess it should run on less than that – I'll get myself a boiler though when I have it running on air first I think…..

Cheers

Garry

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

This is where I'm at today. I failed to get a decent setup with the rotary table to do this so I'm having to file. Despite upgrading my rotary table to a 6 inch I think its still too small – next time I mess up and am having to wait for some reordered parts I'm going to have a go at making an adaptor or mounting plate for the RT, I think a 9 inch will be ok and fit on the Mill, have to source some kind of 'blank' to do it from. At least then I will have more room to clamp the workpiece..

6 Lugs to do, the first one has taken about 45 mins but I should be much quicker with the rest I hope.. I've caught the rim a bit have to be more careful – although this will all eventually be hidden by the cylinder lagging..

One down 5 to go..

Cheers

Garry

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I would have thought you could get that on a 6" R/T, this cylinder is only 1/4" smaller dia than yours and fits OK. Note use a packing not the stepped packers that come with the clamps, you could always have the studs comming up the middle if the clamps won't fit the outside.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Jason

I hadn't thought to use packing like that instead of the 'stepped' wedges, that's very useful to see, I think your clamps look a bit shorter than mine as well but not an issue without the wedges though…

I've took just about 25 – 30 mins to do this one so I may persevere, but its great to have that option now in future..

[edit: I did try the clamps in the centre, I didn't spend much time on that but it was awkward as I was using my Co Axial Indicator to centre on the bore, it was tricky to get the stud into the t piece and washer after centering – I had though last night to try a short stud down in the bore and then extended with a joiner after centring but went straight at it with the file this morning.. ] 

Thanks very much

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 05/08/2015 09:30:40

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