My little engine (continued)

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hope its ok to create a new thread here to continue with my ‘Stuart No1’ build.

I’ve only just started with it really having some months ago done the Sole Plate, Box Bed, the Bearings and started some small work on the Crankshaft – for anyone interested details can be seen in a thread of the same name in the ‘Stationary Engines’ section of the forum.

 

This is all I have done so far.

 

 

Hoping other forum members will look in from time to time and point out my many shortcomings – I'm still very much struggling with the basics.

 

Thanks.

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 23/02/2015 16:27:07

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

I thought I would make a start / continue with the 'Standard'.

 

The Standard Drawing.

The Standard casting as supplied.

Setting up to machine the Standard.

I intended to machine the vertical face to size and then side mill around one of the horizontal faces to get the surfaces at 90 degrees. This turned out to be a mistake as the resultant horizontal face did not mill true, I think due to the tool deflecting, so I had to correct as below. (didn't help as the cutter was quite short leaving not much in the collet to be able to cover the work face, my fault of course for trying it).

I still don't have a fly cutter, must get one – so I used a small end mill. The finished surface was nice and smooth to the touch, if not looking great.

This was a mistake – side milling.

Showing the error after side milling – can be seen clearly when using the end mill here.

Testing the face after correcting the error – perfect now..

The setup used to do the other end of the Standard.

The Standard milled to length.

Checking the other end of the standard – seems perfect.

Any pointers and criticisms would be very much appreciated.

Regards

Allan.

 

Edited By Allan. on 23/02/2015 16:13:11

Edited B

[DullnoteParticipant @dullnote]

Hi Alan glad to here from you again, sorry I can't give advice, I am even more of a beginner. Noticed your mill, can you tell me what it is sitting on, ? I know other has said about how clean you keep your working area, must admit I am a bit like that, before I leave the workshop everything must be put away and all machines cleaned down. This makes it easier for me to restart. The older I get the less clutter I can put up with.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Jim, thanks for the kind comments. I used to have the mill sitting on its own metal cabinet stand but I've just moved everything into the house from an outbuilding and now have it on a bench that I have made. Its basically supported by 3×2" uprights with 3×2" horizontal members supported by long steel brackets that run right underneath and then 4 x 4×2" timbers lald on those, then topped by 1 inch thick MDF board – the bench runs for about 18ft down one wall of the room I use for a workshop now, my Lathe is on there as well etc. I find it so much better to be inside and wouldn't want to go back outside now.. Building the bench has also allowed me to have the surface height to my liking (high) – used to play a lot of rugby and my back is not too good these days as a result I think – I need to be standing up straight when using the machines then no aches and pains..

I had a similar bench in the outbuilding with my lathe etc on and can confirm that it stayed nice and flat – the long metal supporting brackets are crucial though I think…

and yes I very much prefer to keep and work with things nice and tidy, always been that way inclined!

Hope you will follow along with the build.

Regards

Allan.

[BERT ASHTONParticipant @bertashton57372]

Welcome back Allan, we missed you, it is nice to see you on the ME site again

with your clear text and fine photographs, I am sure they both help and inspire

many beginners.

Bert Ashton.

[Jesse Hancock 1Participant @jessehancock1]

I have to admit that when I am doing a job I leave the tools I'm using right where they are needed. If I pack everything away I spend hours looking for it the next time I need it. If I don't use it for two days it's put away.

My ex used to be very house proud to the point of feeling scared to breath or move. This also led to me to be constantly asking where everything was including my wallet.

Those days are gone and I'm very content with the level of squalor into which I have descended.

Always let you conscience be your guide.

I take your point about standing and that has reminded me to get making those steel benches.

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 23/02/2015 20:05:11

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Bert

Thanks, good to hear from you again, I hope what you say proves to be true. I would very much welcome hearing from you with your expertise whenever you see me making a hash of things…. Hoping you can follow along.

Hi Jesse

We gave up being house proud years ago – same time as the dogs arrived!

Cheers

Allan.

[Mike BondarczukParticipant @mikebondarczuk27171]

Hi Allan,

Welcome back to this forum and I am looking forward to following your build, though doubt whether I can contribute anything at all since I am just starting out, similar to how you were at first I guess.

Very much enjoyed your earlier contributions with excellent crips photos and descriptions.

Mike

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks Mike, hope you enjoy following but good to hear any comments you may have along the way as well..

I've put in a little more time on the Standard today with some marking out and drilling of some of the fixing holes.

I found it a bit of an awkward shape to hold square.

The Punch Marks on the bottom of the Standard – one good one not so good I think. I seem to remember that with Victoria lots of the 'connecting' holes were able to be spotted through. These holes on the Standard have to be drilled separately and spot on (according to the book 'Building the Stuart No 1 I am following). Its easier to see in the photograph than when I was doing it – I could have pushed one of them over slightly If I had seen it was out..

I've been struggling with hole placement from the beginning – so I've recently bought a Centering Indicator to see if it will help. I couldn't use in on the Standard ends though as my Mill was not 'deep' enough. No point though unless I can get the Punch Marks right in the first place.. Looking forward to having a go with it soon though.

So I used a more basic Centre Finder.. This does a good job as well I think.

Drilling the Standard – I used a Centre Drill then 3mm, 5mm and 1/4 inch drills.

The two 1/4 inch finished holes..

The two 1/4 inch holes from the other side of the Standard. I was wondering about spot facing them as its difficult to get a drill / mill in from that end due to the central web – but on checking the nuts seem to sit nice and lie flat as is..

I took the advice of the book and increased the hole ctrs from 7/8 inch to 15/16 inch to allow a bit more room for the nuts, good thing I did I think. Have to do the same when I drill the Sole Plate of course..

Hoping again some will find it interesting..

Regards

Allan.

[Mike BondarczukParticipant @mikebondarczuk27171]

Hi Allan,

I too had problems with centre punching so now tend to use the vernier to mark both axis and then centre on the mill without punching that way I find I get a better result.

What helps a great deal is that I have DRO's on all three axis plus and additional DRO on the quill which means that once I find my first mark the others are simply dial across and centre drill.

If you have DRO's then it may be worth a try.

Best regards,

Mike

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Mike

That's interesting to hear thanks. I don't have DRO's on my Mill (or Lathe) though, I'm sure they are very good and would be more accurate for someone like me (pretty useless!) – but I'm not sure yet if I'll go that way in the future as I'd like to stay with as many of the old ways of doing things that i can as that is where my interest is mainly at..

I seem to have developed more of a feel today with the centre finder I was using in my last post, sods law that after getting the centering indicator.. I will experiment with not punching as well and see how it compares..

Thanks again.

Best Regards

Allan.

Edited By Allan. on 25/02/2015 16:17:34

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

A bit more work done on the Standard today – as much as I can do I think for a while on that now, the 4BA holes I'll spot through when I have done the Guide Plates.

The 2BA holes in the top I've done today, using the same set up as for the bottom holes.

Marking out the channel for the Crosshead in the Standard.

Milling the 5/8 x 1/8 inch channel in the Standard. Used a 10mm Slot Mill and have ended up 1.4 thou under depth so I can skim that again if need be – but 4 thou over width.. I guess I can allow for that when I make a the Crosshead..

The Standard so far 1.

The Standard so far 2.

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Time's not been my own this week, back to normal now I hope. So I've not made much progress….

I've marked out and fitted the fixing studs for the Standard.

The Centering Indicator has been a bit of a revelation for me and since using it holes have been perfect – to my eye anyway, well pleased and its nice and easy and quick to use. I enjoy drilling much more now…

The fixing studs for the Standard in the Sole Plate – measured from the centre of the Crankshaft.

One of the Guide Bars marked out and drilled.

Both Guide Bars drilled 4BA tapping size, ready for spotting through onto the Standard.

The Guide Bars so far – one almost fitted. I will file to size to suit the Standard after they are both in place.. They need to overlap the channel sides by 1/16" to leave 1/2" for the Crosshead.

Regards.

Allan.

Edited By Allan. on 05/03/2015 15:10:19

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Just a bit more time spent on the Guide Plates today..

Finished drilling the Standard for them. They just need filing to size… [Screws not tightened in the photo].

Found I was short of one of the 6 4BA screws and had an 'odd' one in the pack with the head at half thickness (top left one in the photo) – emailed Andy at Stuart Models to see if he would send a replacement or would I need to order one. Had a reply within 5 minutes to say he had put a couple in the post (foc) – can't beat that for a response!

Have the right (in the photo) Guide Plate filed to size now I think…

Just another view 1. Showing the 1/16" overhang.

Just another view 2.

Sorry too many pics showing the same thing again I'm sure..

I make it a 4 thou difference in the channel width between the Guides end to end at the moment. So dare say will need to softly run a file down them when fitting the Crosshead later..

Regards.

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Guide plates finished today and the Standard in place.

Going to have a go at the Crankshaft next and looking forward to it. I'll probably struggle with it and may need a few attempts though – I won't inflict any more of my misdoings on the forum so will post again when I have some success.

Its a great project, really enjoying it…

The finished Guide Plates. (The replacement BA screw has arrived & in place since this pic).

I was wrong about not having to spot face the Standard. The only way I could do it with what I have was to use an end mill in the pillar Drill going as slow as possible. It only needed a slight touch and has done the job ok though – not much room due to the central web of the Standard – couldn't use the Mill.

Progress so far..

Cheers for now..

Allan.

Edited By Allan. on 07/03/2015 15:44:20

[MalcBParticipant @malcb52554]

Greatly informative Allen and the pictures are brilliant.

You are more than likely well aware of Steves workshop build on the No.1 but if not:

http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/steammodels/stuart1/stuart1index.htm

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks Malc. Yes I know about Steve's excellent site – I followed his guidelines and plans when I built my 'Simple Oscillating Engine', which got me started… He makes it all look so easy…

Cheers.

Allan.

Edited By Allan. on 07/03/2015 19:29:42

[MalcBParticipant @malcb52554]

Thought you must have, but yours is very detailed and good reading.

You are overcoming your issues very well indeed.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Just a little update to say that at last I'm now ready to start the Crankshaft. Been spending some time first in getting used to the new Lathe, a Warco WM250V which I think is brilliant… My previous tiny Sieg SC4 was also a great machine but this seems like a good step up, although its still a little un – I'm really pleased with it.

Its taken some time with some difficulty in setting it up and testing – I couldn't work out for ages what was going wrong until only this morning I realised that the tailstock was moving around intermittently. There was a small (and cheesy) M6 grubscrew in the back of it to secure the offset setting and it was just not up to the job (on mine anyways) and once I replaced it with a cap crew that could be tightened properly all was fine and completely solid. Lovely smooth and quiet motor, heavier built and with more facilities than the old lathe.

Tailstock Grubscrew (back end) replaced with a Cap Screw. (Original grubscrew on the bed).

All I've done so far is to get the Crankshaft Webs screwed and machined together and I've made one of the two throwplates… The screws holding the Webs together will be cut away once drilled and reamed.

Ready to start drilling the Crankshaft Webs.

The Crankshaft Drawing.

I'll use a new piece of bar for the shaft so that I can turn all in the same setting (not the one I already have to the larger diameter size)..

Hope there is some interest in progress and to be able to continue with regular updates again now..

Regards

Allan.

[MM57Participant @mm57]

Yes, a lot of interest Allan – please keep posting

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Yep, following with interest, Alan.

I nearly commented on the use of a g-clamp rather than a proper toolmaker's clamp (I find g-clamps are very good at slipping) but it's such a beautiful blue…

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

And another quietly following along.

Are you going for the silver soldered or loctite method?

The two screws front and back of the tailstock will also stop it moving so make sure they are also nipped up.

J

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks All.

Will do Martin.

Neil, yes the g-clamp can be a bit iffy sometimes I agree – I only had one toolmakers clamp until recently (just bought one to try out), they are definitely really useful and I've got a couple more now..

Jason, I've got some Loctite 638 which I hope will be ok (and will pin).. I don't think I ever moved the tailstock offset on my Sieg – I'll be keeping a close eye on it now for a while thats for sure – and make sure everything is tight, although since I replaced the end screw no probs at all, and its all very nice and smooth to use in comparison to the old one..

Cheers.

Allan.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Toolmakers clamps are a good exercise for a beginner in the workshop, I made mine from some salvaged 1" high tensile bolts, machined them to a square section, cut the threads on the lathe, I used 3/8 UNF. I think it took an afternoon to make a pair.

Ian S C

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