My little engine.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi again,

I'd like to try and see if its possible to do my little No.1 story / diary on here again – there may not be any interest this time around, but I'd like to try and get something down to again keep with the engine – as I did with Victoria.

Should be a lot quieter in this section I'm thinking – it will take a while to get the thread back to where it came off the rails somewhat but perhaps I should pause here for a bit..

Regards

Allan

 

Edited By Allan. on 28/05/2014 10:54:30

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

[DullnoteParticipant @dullnote]

Hi Allan good you are back, hope this thread goes well, I did enjoy you other threads, sorry I can not help with your issues in the build, due to lack on knowledge on my part.

Apart from the learning, your thread has inspired me to get workshop back up and running, started with this posted a couple of photos, but I have a classic car, which is taking up a good chunk of my time at present.

Keep up the good work and I will keep popping in to see your progress, workshop every day!!!! I do envy you

[MM57Participant @mm57]

It might be quieter here, but I drive what I look at from the "Latest Forum Posts" block on the RHS of http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/ .. so anytime you post I will see that you have and come in for a good look – and continued appreciation for what you have done so far. Please keep it up – it's very good

I suspect others might do the same, but please don't let that put you off

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Allan Good to see you back how did the bearing boring go ?

Roy

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Jim

Thanks for that, a friend of mine has restored a classic car, completely rebuilt it, I can't remember the name of it but it looks like a Morgan (although I know it isn't) – he brings it out every summer and sometimes I'm lucky enough to get a ride in it….

Hi Martin

Cheers, I did look at trying elsewhere but I think I should say that when it came down to it ME was still my 1st choice, I hope it will be ok..

Good to hear from you too Roy. The bearings went beautifully. I used the boring bar I made to get to about 12mm, and perfectly lined up and then used a 12.5mm drill, then the 1/2 inch reamer. The bores themselves looked great, I have some photo's for later.. I did take a few seconds of video of the boring bar 'going in' for the first time – I know how to put on youtube but i've also seen one or two posts with video's embedded in the thread, I'll have to look at how to do that for the future – much nicer than linking to youtube, if it is possible that is, maybe only for admin level..

I used a hand reamer for Victoria, it was ok I think, certainly better than a drill bit I can remember – this time I ordered a 'Chuck' reamer and it kind of felt 'right' from the start – done at 100rpm with the feed being very very slow. Lovely shiny smooth result and I didn't go' back through' with it and just the one pass.. it was great to do..

Regards

Allan.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Allan, if you click the youtube icon along the top of the reply box it tells you how to embed the video.

J

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Ah I see, thanks Jason. It'll be good to have a video option now as well..

I'll just quickly edit this to say that I'll carry on now as and when I can getting the thread back up to date, a shorter version than before though I'm sure – most I imagine will be bits of copy and paste from the old one. So there likely won't be much new happening here for quite some time – I want to do it though as I'll be converting the whole thread into pdf at the end, or as far as I can get with it. This will stay with and get handed down with the engine, did the same with Victoria. Hope that may save people looking in unnecessarily while I get it done..

Cheers.

Allan.

Edited By Allan. on 28/05/2014 16:02:37

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Ok this then is the start of my second project – a Stuart No.1 Steam Engine – following completion of the Stuart 'Victoria', which I enjoyed immensely.

I believe the 'No.1' was the first model built and sold by Mr Stuart Turner over 110 years ago, sometime during the 1890's – which appeals to my sense of history and add's something for me to the project. It's a fair sized and heavy model and when on a small base should stand about 15 inches high. 'Victoria took about 9 months to complete, the No.1 has much more to it and I can see lots that I'm no doubt going to struggle with – its going to take much longer….

I've made a small start with the Box Bed……

The Stuart No.1 box arrives.The Box Bed Drawing.

The Box Bed as supplied – little filling needed in order to get going.Milling the Box Bed bottom flat.

Milling the top of the Box Bed.

The Box Bed after milling.

Drilling the fixing holes in the Box Bed. There were indentations for these on Victoria's base but had to be marked out on the No.1.

The Box Bed so far.

The holes for tapping will need to be 'spotted through from the Sole Plate…

Regards.

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

The Sole Plate drawing.

The Sole Plate as supplied cast.

The Sole Plate after some cleaning with a file.

Showing the 'turned column' seating although at the reqd 8 degrees is not square across the casting. Although after milling the bottom of the Sole Plate flat will hopefully help with this.

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Just managed to mill the Sole Plate bottom flat today..

The casting is not particularly 'square' whichever way it's measured and looked to have a noticeable taper across the width – it looks fine to the eye now though, I found the best way to mill the bottom after all was to simply up turn onto the bearing housings, (resting on parallels across the frame was very unstable when I tried that). Trying to take off as little as possible I ending up taking several cuts totalling 90 thou before it was sitting square. Everything will now be milled with reference to the base and hopefully be ok..

Setting up to mill the Sole Plate bottom flat.

The Box Bed and Sole Plate after milling.

The Box Bed and Sole Plate so far.

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Finished off the Milling today I think on the Sole Plate. By far the most milling on a single part I've done to date. All went well with all sizes to within 1 thou except for the thickness of one of the bearing houses which was just over 1 thou – so its so far so good.. I used a 14mm end mill for all of it.

(Hope i haven't put up too many photo's of the same thing….)

The tilting table over at 8 degrees to Mill the 'Turned Column' seating.

Setting up to Mill all around the Sole Plate in one setting. The Sole Plate is simply aligned down one edge with a T Square to 90 degrees across the Mill table. I'm hoping if I do the same when it comes to boring the bearings in situ on the Lathe Cross Slide all will ok.. Didn't have anything to use as a machining plate as Jason suggested – have to have a think about that for the future…

Checking the height of the 'Turned Column' seating on the Sole Plate.

Milling to the correct measurement for between the Bearing Houses on the Sole Plate.

Milling to the correct thickness for the Bearing Houses on the Sole Plate.

The Bearing Houses on the Sole Plate after milling.

The 'Turned Column' seating on the Sole Plate after Milling.

The Sole Plate so far.

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Another little update of progress – It seems there was 'almost plenty' of room for the Sole Plate fixing nuts after all..

It was another real eye opener and a 1st for me in using the Mill for drilling – found myself whistling instead of sweating, much much better for accurate working..

Using the Mill for drilling the Sole Plate fixing holes.

Using 1/2 inch End Mill to spot face the 1/4 BSF hole. Holes first drilled @ tapping size for spotting through to the Box Bed – using the Zeus guide @ 5.3mm instead of the Stuart 5.4mm recommended on the drawing chart. Likewise used the Zeus guide to later open out to clearance size after tapping the box bed @ 6.3mm and not the 6.4 recommended on the drawing – and it was fine with nice 1/4 x 26 tpi thread and very close fit with the studs through..

A close fit after spot facing – but fine…

Both nuts at the 'Standard' end in place after spot facing.

Showing all the nuts on the spot facings.

Spotting through the holes to the Box Bed from the Sole Plate.

Tapping the 1/4 BSF holes in the Box Bed

I usually run a plug tap through by hand ie. without tommy the bar after the 'second' tap – seems to work well for me.. must admit I haven't been using any taper taps to start..

1st one of the Box Bed Studs in Place.

Regards

Alan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

continued…

Another one of the Box Bed fixing holes being tapped.

Spotting through to the Box bed again after getting two studs in place..

All four studs in place on the Box Bed.

Test fitting the Sole Plate to the Box Bed 1.

Test fitting the Sole Plate to the Box Bed 2.

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Not really a progress update but in keeping with my last build I thought I would include all my little mishaps as well for people to make of what they will, hope some will find them at least amusing if not interesting.. This one not major I hope and concerning the 'least critical' (I hope) dimensions of the 'outside' of the 'Bottom Bearing' i.e.. the 1 inch outside length. I've ended up a full 1mm short but I do have both Bottom Bearings to within 1 thou of each other in this length.

I know the best way to have done these would have been to solder the two lower half's together and do in the lathe as one, but I don't have any soldering equipment at the moment (on order now) so I thought I would do the lower bearing half's on the Mill together at the same time. I've been reading at how Gunmetal 'grabs' at the tool and can now personally vouch for that – but made all the more likely by some very silly setting up on my part. Anyway to cut the story short I'm now facing the Lower Bearings to the outside size on the lathe, one at a time and trying to get them as close as possible to the same size – I seem to be able to get sizes to within 1 thou now regular and hope that will suffice with final lining up (boring) on the cross slide in situ on the Sole Plate later. I have ordered some 'Fryolux' Solder Paint to be able to solder the Upper Bearings to do on the lathe as one as this is a necessity I think – and then separate into the permanent Bearing pairs later, also a 'cheapie' gas tourch with 'Mapp' gas cylinder. I'll then be able to use this to solder and drill the final Bearing sets later before separating again.. Hope all that makes sense.. So I'm busy facing the bottom Bearings at the moment..I think there will be a touch of 'permanent' soldering involved when I come to final assembly of the crankshaft later – I'm hoping to get some advice on here on what Solder I will need for that etc – but thats a long way off at the moment..

The Bearings Drawing.

The Lower Bearing Half Assembly Drawing to give a 3D idea of the final shape..

The Bearing Castings as supplied. Gunmetal.

How NOT to Mill the Gunmetal Bearings. What can I have been thinking of, holding them with so little 'Vice Grip' as that..! It seems obvious now of course but the blocks were 'grabbing' at the tool and rising, luck was on my side and I noticed pretty quickly – the original casting size was only a tiny fraction over 1' square if at all. Once I have both Half's faced to the same size on the lathe it will be back to the Mill to do the central channel – held together as one but clamped directly down to the Mill table I think.. As I said though its resulted in my having to go slightly under size to 'square' it back up again..I've milled the important faces of the Vice itself all over and know that work placed in those vice slots Mill very accurately – caught out with the increase in scale is my excuse..

This is what I'm busy with at the moment. That's 12 faces to do – take quite a while on my little Lathe I expect..

Anyways hope some found it interesting..

Regards.

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Little time unfortunately over the Bank Holiday to make progress, but I do have the bottom bearing 'blocks' faced to size and ready for the channels to be milled now. The reason for this post though is I've been trying to find some guidelines on sizes to aim for when making parts for fitting to another. e.g. How much undersize for a Push Fit, Close Fit, Sliding Fit, Interference Fit etc. I was hoping to find a 'basic' chart to use as a guideline but all I've found so far are charts with masses of numbers to include tolerances for the parts themselves. Does anyone have by chance a link to something simple. Feels like something it would be useful to have at least some idea on…!

The Bottom Bearings here I assume I would make as a close fit into the housing blocks, it would save time etc to have a target size to aim at.. Hope its not a dumb question.

Maybe there are no simple guidelines..?

Thanks anyway for anyone that does have a link or some info…

The bottom Bearing 'blocks' ready for Milling the channels..

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Have one of the 'bottom bearing half's' fitted into the housing now..

Finding this an interesting little job and much more work than I first imagined, mainly due to my bad technique though I expect – there was nothing really like this with Victoria – fitting bearings to a housing. After marking out I used a 12mm end mill down the centre and across the 3 sides followed by a 14mm end mill – all with the mill table locked in the same position, then final fitting with some slight work with a file..

Both bearings done separately (I'm halfway through the second) – but with the same mill settings..

It's a first attempt at something like this and far from perfect, but the bearing is a nice tight fit and feels very solid with no movement…

Test fitting one of the bottom bearing half's 1.

Test fitting one of the bottom bearing 'half's' 2.

Test fitting one of the bottom bearing 'half's' 3.

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

For the sake of completeness – forgot to include the setup used on the mill for the channel…

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Both the bottom bearing half's in the housings now. Next the top half's which I need to temporally solder together to turn on the lathe.

Test fitting the bottom bearing half's. Think I did a slightly better job on the second one – which is as it should be second time around, but both seem to fit ok and feel solid with no movement.. The second one done is on the right in the photo..

My new 'very basic' soldering kit. Not much idea how to use it yet….

I wanted to ask if it's just a matter of applying the solder paint on both surfaces of the 2 'top bearing half's', clamping together and heating? Do I need to heat from both sides or can I just lay them on the vermiculite fire brick without moving, (have more than one of these bricks of course..)? I assume I just heat up afterwards to separate and wipe the surfaces off while hot, do I need a solvent for this?. Do I need to wait long after cooling before I can put it in the Lathe or do they have to be left to stand… How hot do I heat?

Sorry lots of questions there – but thanks to anyone for any pointers, even one or two would be a great help..

Regards

Allan.

ps. won't do it next to the straw of course..

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Didn't get to make as much progress as I thought I would this morning but am now at the point of being ready to solder. Just managed to clean up the 'top bearing half' castings and faced the surfaces ready for soldering. Had some strange marks though left on the surfaces afterwards that I haven't seen before…

The top bearing half castings after cleaning up with the file. They took quite a bit of filing.

Setting up to face the bottom surfaces.

I only took a light skim off ready for soldering, 3 thou at 380 rpm, maybe I should have taken off more, or I'm using the wrong speed (they are Gunmetal). I don't know if these marks were already there under the surface or the tool was digging in. The carbide insert has I suppose done a lot of work, may need changing, but it looks ok under a 'glass', like new in fact – there was absolutely no sign from the lathe when facing that there was anything untoward happening – bit of a mystery to me. As the surfaces are completely flat and I will be boring through most of it shortly rather than take any more material away I thought it would still be ok for temporary soldering and plan to go ahead like this – unless anyone is kind enough (if thought necessary) to advise me otherwise that is..

Regards

Alan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

If you mean the small indentations, they look like inclusions in the casting to me, possibly caused by gassing. They will mostly disappear when the bearings are bored, but if there is enough allowance on the casting I would have been inclined to take a bit more than 3 thou off.

Regards,

Andrew

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Great fun before breakfast this morning – soldering the top bearing half's together.

Thought I would quickly put up the sequence of soldering steps in case anyone like me who's not tried it before may be interested..

Hopefully if I've messed up someone will explain..

My little soldering hearth…

The solder paint applied when cold – i don't know if this was maybe too much. Applied with a matchstick I'm afraid..

Initial heating.

After heating and wiping off the excess solder.

Solder paint reapplied to one surface after cooling.

The two half's placed together.

Reheating.

I think I heated too much as they slid apart slightly.

Back in line and cooling.

Cooling before machining..

On to the lathe now – after breakfast..

Hope some found it interesting.

Regards.

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Jason

Yes, that makes sense and will do – I was quite surprised it wasn't more 'messy' than it was when doing it, I'd imagined it running lots more..

A little more progress in the Lathe – it will be worth in the future trying some of the CCGT carbide inserts for Gunmetal I think..

The bearing 'tops' in the lathe ready for the initial facing.

Facing in order to be able to mark the centre..

After marking the centre, setting the bearing 'tops' to run true..

The bearing 'tops' so far 1.

The bearings tops so far 2.

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Finished the turning on the top bearing half's earlier..

I put them into the 3 Jaw to do the other side holding on the recently turned OD. Not much to hold onto but I was taking very light cuts and it did all seem very solid and spinning true – and went ok..

I realised I should have been turning down the 'sides' as well to get the central dimension right as well, not to mention the finish.. So after doing this side I turned around in the chuck and did the other side again.. (hope that makes sense…)

The top bearing half's after turning was finished. If compared with the photo's yesterday, a big improvement..

All done to size now.

The top bearing half's after turning 2. It will be interesting to try a different tool insert for gunmetal as my lathe seems to not be doing the finish I usually get with other materials used so far..

Sorry photo's not great again – not helped by the light in my workshop when the outside doors are closed. I have a 90w, halogen I think it is, just about 4 – 5ft above the Lathe but it's nowhere near good enough. I'm wondering if I can get another type of bulb to fit the 'standard bayonet' holder which is more powerful..

Also wondering how people usually go about polishing or just getting a finish to something like the top (un machined) tops of the bearings – I used to have a Dremel, I'm guessing maybe some use something similar …? Can do it by hand and some wet and dry of course or emery etc but it seems there's probably an easier or better way..

Have a good bank holiday everyone..

Regards.

Allan

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

I like the idea of trying to make a little progress most days, no matter how small even when time is difficult – it keeps things moving forward, not always possible but it worked well with Victoria..

So this morning I just separated the bearing half's ready for the next step..

Heating to separate the top bearing half's. It seemed to take a lot more heat to separate them than it di

The top bearing half's after separating 1.

The top bearing half's after separating 2. At this point I wondered if I had over done the heat and ruined them – but after a little rubbing on some wet and dry paper they came up very easily. Think I had to put in a bit more effort than 'normal' for this though in order to get rid of my bad tool marks which were preventing cleaning up properly – hopefully as I'll need to clean them up again shortly after soldering for drilling and boring, it will be easier to do next time around…

The top bearing half's after some cleaning 1.

The top bearing half's after some cleaning 2.

Decided to drill the fixing holes after separating so I could spot face on the Mill in the same way as earlier – next job to do..

Regards

Allan.

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