Muncaster’s Simple Entablature Engine

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I assume you mean gauge plate (ground flat stock) should be OK and no more likely to move than bright bar.

[Chris ThornParticipant @christhorn]

I quite fancy having a go at this

Is there anywhere I can download your plans Jason?
I can access previous back issues but can’t easily print these of the magazine viewer

thanks

Chris

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Check your messages.

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

I'm confused about the vitron o ring.

I can't find any metric ones, or am I looking in the wrong place.

the usual model engineering suppliers use imperial, which the sizes in the magazine equate to 3/32 or 0.09375 section and 49/64 or 0.76563 id . they are nowhere near what I have seen online

(ps sizes rounded and taken from model engineers handbook)

can anybody point me in the right direction for these "elusive" o rings

thankyou

regards

Paul

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

They are not elusive Paul I got mine from Simply Bearings £4.29 for a pack of 2, maybe cheaper elsewhere I don't know, Jason will know. I have seen them on Ebay but went with Simply as I trust what they supply is the genuine item. 

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 04/05/2020 04:35:12

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Crikey Ron you're up early but then so am I!!

Paul you can get them on ebay at sealsuppliesuk

They call them viton rings not vitron

I assume they are the same thing?

Geoff

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Hi Geoff, good morning yes this is about the time I am in the workshop as I have got older my body clock has changed, to bed at 9.00 up at 4.00.

Ron

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

With most of the ME suppliers still living in an imperial world you are best buying from somewhere else in the modern world. As has been said any seal supplier or e-bay will have them. Just put "19.6 x 2.4 viton" into google.

A 3/32" nominal O ring is actually 0.103" section (2.62mm) not 2.4. though with changes to the groove an imperial BS116 ring would do as 15/16" is close to our 24mm bore.

Good listing of metric sizes here

Edited By JasonB on 04/05/2020 07:14:48

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

Jason that explains the 0.103 I thought about the 15/16" but that is a tad under 24mm wouldn't that not be any good?

thank you all

I will get some metric ones ordered

regards

Paul

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You would have to play about with the groove dimensions a bit to get the 15/16" to work bit it could be done if nothing else was available but as there are plenty of the metrics about hardly worth the hassle.

These are the ones.

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

cheers Jason

i've ordered these, I think they should be ok, time will tell

**LINK**

many thanks

regards

Paul

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Thats a good price Paul, I paid a fiver for 2 off.

Will have to remember that in case I build any more of Jasons 24mm engines..

Ron

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

That looks fine, I've used that seller before myself and now you have no excuse not to make another 5 engines

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

Posted by JasonB on 04/05/2020 12:57:43:

That looks fine, I've used that seller before myself and now you have no excuse not to make another 5 engines

I'm already building 2 that's taking me long enough, it's only because of the lockdown i've managed to get some time to get back into my shed.

while we are on the topic where do you get your nuts from?

m2.5 self Colour seem to be very expensive from model engineer suppliers.

yet from other firms they only seem to supply them in stainless or bzp

regards

Paul

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

It's not just the colour but the size as well, I think I mention that the ones I use are smaller hex and a bit taller and look better on a period engine. Like good BA fixings these are fully machined not forged mass produced ones so nice and crisp too but obviously you pay for the more involved making.

Polly Engineering do them though I usually buy from the people they get them from who are GHW in Germany.

Mass produced M4 and M3 in the middle and the GHW ones on the outside

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

Thank you Jason thats given me something to think about

regards

Paul

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

Hi all

I came across this site in UK for fasteners etc on my search if anyones interested

they seem to have a good range, reasonable prices & cheap p&p (to UK)

**LINK**

regards

Paul

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

A couple of queries for you Jason if you don't mind

I've started to machine the fly wheel and notice there is no dimension for the hub diameter. Also in the drawing the figure given is 16mm for overall hub length, is this correct? reason I ask is, in the pictures & videos it looks to be more and I was also thinking there would be rather a large gap between the bearing and the fly wheel. or am I talking rubbish?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you are using one of lee's castings then hub diameter is not critical, you could leave it as cast, just skim to true it up or take a bit more off to leave a step at say 20mm dia.

Width as drawn will work OK , there is about 3mm gap between edge of hub and bearing on my GA drawings but they can touch without anything hitting. If you have not gone too far then the hub could be made 20mm wide and butt up against the bearing and the rim could be taken down to 16mm wide rather than 13mm for a bit more flywheel effect.

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

that were a quick reply!

yes it is one of Lee's castings and nice to machine too

Bit late to just skim it, I'm 0.35 over 20mm now so I will stop and give it some thought after what you said and looking at it. I was going to take it down to 16mm. but bigger looks better?

regarding the length what are your thoughts on 26mm? then you would only have a tiny bit sticking out at the end and a small gap at the bearing for a bit of float.

regards

Paul

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Take it to 26mm and see what you think when it's on the engine, always easier to take a bit more off than add it on

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

yer thats what I was thinking.

I did reply earlier on my phone but it didn't come through for some reason.

thank you

regards

Paul

[paul raynerParticipant @paulrayner36054]

a brace of muncasters finally finished.

sorry Jason but ended up Sourcing some normal nuts from a local supplier as Polly were waiting to put an order in so had no stock. and the german firm wanted 40 Euros for the few I wanted inc postage which i thought was excessive. It's been a learning curve for me so don't look too close, I need to make another exhaust as on re assembly I broke one, and I definitely need to read how not to paint a locomotive. For any that are interested I think it has cost me around £90 to £100 to make these 2 engines that includes the fly wheels, fastners, paint, a couple of reamers I didn't have all the rest is what I already had lying around. may I take this opportunity to thank you publicly Jason and all the others with the help and advice along my journey.

regards

Paul

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

They look to have turned out well Paul, good to know you enjoyed making them.

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

Beautiful job many congratulations, lovely wooden bases as well.

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