Multico high speed drill info

[YouraTParticipant @yourat]

Hi all.

I have a high speed (10,000rpm top whack) bench drill by Multico (identical to the light grey one in the picture) and which I think is identical to a later RTD Model J unit (darker grey image). Working well, but slightly noisy spindle bearings compared to another one I have used – does anyone have a copy of the service instructions for these, or know where I could find them?

Thanks!

[YouraTParticipant @yourat]

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Dr. Dave had a similar enquiry **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=139922&p=11

… but apparently drew a blank with the links that I provided.

It looks a mighty useful machine [deep throat], so I hope you have more joy.

MichaelG.

[YouraTParticipant @yourat]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 16/04/2021 10:02:57:

Dr. Dave had a similar enquiry **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=139922&p=11

… but apparently drew a blank with the links that I provided.

It looks a mighty useful machine [deep throat], so I hope you have more joy.

MichaelG.

Thanks Michael

As best as I've been able to work out, the Multico name has changed hands a *number* of times, and the manufacture of this particular little drill was at one point taken over by RTD Ltd, who have also gone the way of the Dodo, so info finding is going to be tough!

Youra.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

I haven't looked on Companies House, but this seems to confirm that RTD Ltd. was dissolved:

**LINK**

https://www.companysearchesmadesimple.com/company/uk/00578431/rayment-tool-design-limited/

Happy Hunting, Youra !

MichaelG.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Another recent thread [but the same dead-ends]: **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=150687

I think you should ‘reverse engineer’ yours, Youra … and write the manual, pro bono

MichaelG.

[YouraTParticipant @yourat]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 16/04/2021 12:22:43:

Another recent thread [but the same dead-ends]: **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=150687

I think you should ‘reverse engineer’ yours, Youra … and write the manual, pro bono

MichaelG.

Thanks Michael

I might end up doing that if the noises get worse – just reluctant to tear it apart while it's still running nicely and not giving me run-out problems!

Y.

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

Youra, I have the rtd version of this drill, if you do pull it apart would be interesting to see what's going on inside.

I'm slightly confused by you saying the bearings are noisy, but don't want to take it apart as it's ’running nicely’ ?

[YouraTParticipant @yourat]

I'm slightly confused by you saying the bearings are noisy, but don't want to take it apart as it's ’running nicely’ ?

Pete,

fair point. It's a little noisy (to the ear), but when I say it's running nicely, I mean that there's no excessive run-out or mechanical vibration that's affecting its use for the small holes (all sub 1.5mm, I use it for cross-drilling clock arbors and the like) I'm using it for – YET.

The RTD version we have at college is whisper quiet in comparison. I've already made a substantial improvement to the overall noise by replacing the belt that was on it when I got it, but there's a way to go yet.

I was looking for any service instructions mostly to work out how big a job it would be to take it apart, lubricate it and possibly even replace the bearings if that's what's necessary – what I really don't want is to strip it down and then discover that the bearing preload is set by grinding the odd micron off a spacer ring, as is the case in some lathes I've come across!

I'll update this thread with any progress!

Y.

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

Youra,

The spindle is so lightly built in comparison to the weight of the machine, it's unlikely to vibrate with a bad bearing, if the bearing has gone it will need replacing considering the speed it operates at.

I have had a brief look, once the Lever is removed, it looks like the single allen cap head screw squeezing the front casting together is the only thing stopping the spindle assembly being lifted out.

So it should be pretty easy to work on, I might have a deeper look tomorrow if I get a chance.

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

Youra,

I'm in the middle of completing rearranging my workshop, and have been unable to physically get to the drill to have a look, today after a lot of junk was thrown out I managed to make some space.

I've taken a few photos which should help hopefully.

Firstly loosen the 2 grub screws at the rear to slacken the belt, all screws are imperial.

Unclip the return spring, then unscrew the cap head allen screw from the underside holding the pivot arm in place.

Unscrew the single cap head screw on the front holding the spindle in place, you might need to twist apart lightly with a flat head screwdriver, mine pulled out relatively easily.

There's 3 screws on the bottom of the spindle holding the plate on, I photographed this, you can see the bearing inside, I can't find the little chuck key, and have a drill in the chuck, so couldn't see if the chuck had a screw, I wouldn't have thought so, probably just a press fit.

The top of the spindle needs a 2 pin castle type socket to get the upper pulley off, the pivot arm has a pin that needs pressing out

So once you have the spindle off the drill, take the pivot arm off, pretty simple, take the chuck off, make a suitable socket for the upper pulley, and it's just the bearings in the sleeve, all very simple.

[DrDaveParticipant @drdave]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 16/04/2021 10:02:57:

Dr. Dave had a similar enquiry **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=139922&p=11

… but apparently drew a blank with the links that I provided.

It looks a mighty useful machine [deep throat], so I hope you have more joy.

MichaelG.

Blimey, you have a good memory, Michael! I never did manage to find any info on my drill…

Dave

[YouraTParticipant @yourat]

Pete,

Thanks for that – very useful – I'll have a play with mine in a weekend or two when I can afford for it to be out of action for a while!

Cheers,

Youra.

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

Youra,

Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure there's no need to remove the chuck, I think the pressed in pin at the top of the spindle which holds the pivoting arm also holds the black part to the spindle, providing it's the same diameter underneath, it should slide out.

But it just appears to be sealed bearings, so I don't think you need to worry about anything overly technical in there, but if you do forget how anything goes back together, I can always check mine for you if needed.

[YouraTParticipant @yourat]

All,

I've had a little bit of a fiddle over the past couple of days, and as far as I can tell the problem bearing is the one in the black cap that attaches the lever to the top of the spindle – sounds like a tin of ball bearings…..!

After taking out the pin that holds the lever to the cap, and removing the three little clips that stop everything falling out, the bearing is a pretty standard 6000-2RSH 26x10x8 type, so I have a new one on the way, and with any luck everything will be a lot quieter.

I can't detect any nasties on the main spindle bearings (and in fact I've stopped taking things apart at this point), but I guess the proof of that particular pudding will be when everything's back together.

Cheers,

Youra

Edited By YouraT on 06/05/2021 15:38:16

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

That's good, hopefully it solves your problem, let us know either way.

[YouraTParticipant @yourat]

All,

Success – new bearing in, and now nice and quiet – no more bags of spanners !

Thanks for all the pointers and enthusiasm!

Youra.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Excellent result

MichaelG.

[John DParticipant @johnd]

I hope it's ok to revive this thread form a couple of years back – there's not much info in these on the web so the photos and info above is really helpful, thank you. Having just got one of these I am going to strip it down and give it some tlc. Does anyone know how to remove the chuck and what type of fitting the chuck is. I am assuming it is a J0 taper as it's a No. 0 Jacobs chuck.

Edited By John D on 18/06/2023 16:15:41

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