Morse taper sleeves

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

Have any of you ever had difficulty removing open ended sleeves from Morse taper blank arbors ?

Many times I have found it very difficult to remove them,without doing damage to the threaded end. I have come up with this idea,for what it,s worth. All I can say about it is that it works. I have posted a picture of it in my album [took me ages to do it ] All you need is a strip of flat steel about 60x4mm or 76x4mm or whatever you have to hand. All that matters is that it fits the gap between the sleeve and the arbor. Drill a hole to suit the dia at that point,then weld on two pieces of 12mm,long enough to cover the with of the strip you are using,having been drilled through 6mm. The whole unit can now be split to give two sections and a short piece of 6mm studding welded into one side of the unit.The studs pass through the other 12mm guide and are held there by two nuts.

In use,the device is simply clamped around the sleeve/arbor,the whole assy positioned over the end of a length of box tube and a brass drift and hammer applied. The parts will be only too happy to part company,with no damage to either part.

I found that for the two sizes of interest to us, hole sizes of 18mm and 23mm were OK.

Sorry if this is Old Hat,but I found it to be like seeing "Light-at-the-end-of-the-tunnel"

Over the years I found it almost impossible to separate some of these items and not having enough open ended sleeves,it became a total P-I-T-A

Feel free to comment,good or bad,no offence intended,or taken !

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Hi Larry,

All that matters is that it fits the gap between the sleeve and the arbor. ????

Don't quite follow the above Larry. I can vaguely see what your doing, the split collar forms a rigid face which you drive wedge against but not how it's actually used.

Now you have hang of posting pictures how about some more showing the clamp in use, I'd be interested

Geoff

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Had exactly the same problem, with the Mill/Drill.one evening at 10;00 pm!

Made up a stepped sleeve with the larger diameter just a little bigger than the minor ID of the sleeve, bored a taper, and dril;led clearance for a stud (1/4 BSF) and then used a hacksaw (on the prototype) to put 4 slits across the larger end. Made up a matching tapered plug, with a 1/4 BSF tapped hole in the middle. Turned up a sleeve, counterbored to fit over the outer end of the 3MT / 2MT adaptor, with a central hole to clear a short length of 1/4 BSF studding. Screwed and Loctited the male taper onto the studding.

Assembled the whole lot with a washer and nut. Pushed the split end into the MT adaptor, until the step on the split end was through, Tightened the nut and pulled the adaptor into the counterbore.

The tapered plug expands the split end so that the step seats on the inner end of the adaptor, and the whole gadget then acts an extractor. Once the sleeve is is out, disassemble the extractor to remove from the sleeve, before reassembly to put way in a safe place for next time!

Made up a larger version to remove the 5MT/3MT adaptor sleeve for the lathe.

Howard

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

Hi Geoff,

Will try posting a picture but I,m not very good at it [like many things ]

Think of it like this ; The whole idea is to prevent the outer sleeve moving when you strike the inner blank arbor with the drift.. There needs to be some means to prevent it from moving away with the arbor,and this is what the clamp does. It,s the same as putting two strips under the sleeve,trying to hold them there while you try to hold a drift and a hammer,all at the same time ! Not easy ! how do I know ? Been there,done that,too often !

In use it is very simple; Take the clamp apart,bring it together again with the sleeve on topside and arbor on bottom side. Do up nuts hand tight

Place entire assy either on top of vise jaws or better still on top of a piece of tube,round or box,makes no difference.

I use box because I happened to have a piece to hand. With the tube sitting upright on the bench,there is no danger of the arbor dropping to the floor,and as they say "The rest is history"

It,s so simple it,s silly but it works !

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

Hi Geoff,

I,m back again. I have posted some photos in my album [more by luck than anything else ] which should help to explain how this thing works.

I want it mainly to deal with open end sleeves and to avoid causing damage to the threaded end of the arbor.

By the way,,,, USE A BRASS DRIFT NEVER A STEEL ONE !.

Hope this helps.

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

I can't be tightening my tapers enough. Thee only one I ever have had need to seperate is the 3->5MT for my lathe headstock. I screw an M12 into the inner sleeve, hold it over the bench to catch it, and give it a tap with a wooden mallet… sometimes takes 2 taps. However I'll make mental note of the above should I ever get into trouble.

pgk

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

Thanks Neil for that ! That,s more than I could do.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I’ve got some bearing pullers like that, if ever I need some extra help.  I use wedges mostly – lay on bench and thump the wedges together.  It is the usual way of loosening tapers from the mills if more than a light tap on the drawbar would have been needed.

I made my own wedges – and a couple of extra spacers, since, when they have become necessary.

Edited By not done it yet on 24/11/2018 14:15:16

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Ah!, now i see what you mean.

The gadget that i described is to remove the open end sleeve from the Mill/Drill when the 2MT shank has come out leaving the sleeve behind. My Mill/Drill has a small bore to the quill, so that it is not possible to get to the sleeve with a drift.

My version of Larry's device, for use off the machine has two rods leading to a flange with a tapping for a 1/2 UNF setscrew to force the two parts to separate.

If I could post pictures of the two gadgets, I would.

Howard

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

Howard,

Welcome to the club of difficult posters !

Now,I see a use for your idea,same thing happened to me once,very difficult to remove.

Can,t beat an exchange of ideas,everyone learns something from it.

Posting pictures is easy,so long as you can remember what you did last time,and have an hour or two to spare !

Dont start me on that one !!!

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

Howard,

Would love to see a few pictures of your device. Have not had that problem yet,and I mean yet,but I,m sure it,s out there waiting for me. Do try posting.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Larry,

Hopefully, herewith pictures of my MT Adaptor Sleeve Extractors and Separator.

The Quill on my Mill/Drill has such a small bore that it is not possible to contact an open ended Adaptor Sleeve with a brass drift, to drive it out.

Sorry that the pic is so small, cannot seem to enlarge it. Maybe you can copy the image and then enlarge it. If you can't PM me with an E mail address and I'll send it over as a file of about 4 Mb.

This gadget extracts an open ended sleeve from the quill of the Mill/Drill;, once the Collet Chuck has come out.

The top item is a bit of 1/4 BSF studding with a cone loctited on. On it is fitted, loosely, a fitting with a major dia larger than the end of the MT sleeve to be removed. The fitting has a female taper to match the cone on the stud. It is s split (4 or 6 times at the end) to allow it to collapse inwards when pushed through the Sleeve, but to expand when the cone is pulled into it, gripping the Sleeve. The nut is there to ensure that the fitting is pushed through the Sleeve. The counterbored cylinder fits over the stud, and the end of the Quill, and when the nut is tightened against the washer and Cylinder. The nut is a shopmade one, since the standard 1/4 BSF nut is thin enough to suffer after a few uses.

The larger cylinder, and fitting are used in place of the smaller ones shown (3MT-2MT) to extract the 5MT-3MT Sleeve from the l;athe.

To prevent losing this, will post and then edit to show the Separator

This shows the Separator which fits between the end of the ER Collet Chuck and the Sleeve. (To enable the drawbar thread to engage, a male/female extension has been screwed in to the 2 MT ER Collet Chuck)

The small cylinder is counterbored at one end to fit over the male/female extender, and at the other to take the 1/2 UNF forcing screw, to protect the extender. 

If anyone can enlarge the pictures, please do so!  If not PM with an E mail address, and i will reply with a file of about 4Mb.

Hope that all this helps anyone who is stuck, (or their Adaptor Sleeves are)

Howard

 

 

 

Edited By Howard Lewis on 28/11/2018 14:28:16

Edited By Howard Lewis on 28/11/2018 14:29:42

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