More bits of the skeleton clock

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

With about 30 years of grime, and WD40 residue, the clock clean-up is progressing nicely, and almost all the missing parts are now complete.

 

So, as a bit of show and tell, I’ve added a few more pictures.

To give some idea of scale, the six pillars hold the clock frames 2 3/8″ (about 60mm) apart.

 

The two smallest pillars are split to hold and position the balance-wheel cage midway between the frames.

 

Sam

 

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

I decided to have a day taking photographs. So here are a couple more that I’ve added to my CLOCK – 3 album.

 

In attempting to save on brass and since I had no means for producing a thread, I managed to construct the bell standard (stand) from five pieces. The brass thread and brass nut insert came from the local hardware store. Holding my breath, and with a bit of care and dedication, I managed to silver-solder each part together.
 

Machined from solid MS, I had the use of a friends toolroom to turn the bell. It was fortunate that he had a spherical turning attachment, otherwise I would have needed to use coordinates for the spherical profile. Then there would have been a lot more hand work.

 

As found by the author, Mr John Stevens, the bell produces quite a nice, distinctive ring.

Edited By Sam Stones on 28/09/2010 05:35:03

[John OlsenParticipant @johnolsen79199]

Sam, that all looks great

 

regards

John

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

Thanks John,

 

I’ll have the frame clean-up finished in a few days, so I’ll be able to show a primary build of the structure. While making the frames back in the 70’s, I located them with dowels during fretting and filing the profiles by hand including an error or two which should have been OK. Somehow I managed to reverse one of the frames and finished up with some misalignment. A couple of weeks ago, I changed all this by re-boring and bushing the main location holes.

 

What a difference! Everything now lines up as it should.

 

Meanwhile, I have a few medical issues to get through this week, and will have to snatch a bit of (clock) time when I can.

 

Regards,

 

Sam

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Nice work Sam

 

There is something very satisfying about working in brass and seeking the best possible finish don’t you think ? Just as dismantling an old, dirty movement then cleaning and restoring it  to shiny working order is theraputic!  – Of course if you just want to tell the time a better option is the local “Pound Shop”!

Please keep the pictures coming so that we can share in your project .

 

Regards

 

Norman

 

Note  – I too am deeply involved with digital photography which eats up time and keeps me out of the workshop. Ah well all part of a happy retirement I guess!

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

Thanks for your comments Norman. So long as the basic (polishing) rules are followed, it is indeed very satisfying. 

I have posted three more pictures of my skeleton clock, as I work through towards completetion. These show a simple progression of assembly.

See album CLOCK – 4

It ma be interesting to note that since the balance wheel cage pictures were posted, the cage is already showing some tarnish.

 

Sam

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

Here are more parts for the skeleton clock.

This time I’ve photographed the two largest wheels.
 
I discovered too late that I couldn’t cut 96 teeth with my dividing head, and managed to remove the first tooth while I was `Just checking’. Luckily, it didn’t matter that I produced a wheel with 94 teeth, since it was the one wheel where the number of teeth was so not important.

For a measure of scale, the Great Wheel is about 69mm diameter.

The Maintaining Power spring, partially hidden in the assembly, is not unlike a very large circlip. It keeps the clock running while the main spring is being rewound.

The saw-teeth of the Maintaining Wheel engage with the Maintaining Detent shown in my album – CLOCKS – 2

 

Sam

Edited By Sam Stones on 04/10/2010 07:23:55

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Hi Sam the worst  thing you can use on a clock nis wd40 you will end up with a gooey  mess unless cleaned off thoroughly Best of luck Roy E

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Worse still, if WD40 is used as a lubricant , all the dust and any abrasive material, will stick to it and in time grind away not just the pivots but the wheels and pinions. I’m sure Sam knows that and was just spraying as a protective measure during a long break in construction. Your warning Roy is  however very apt as I’m sure the unwary might think a quick spray of WD is the answer to fixing an old clock!

Regards

 

norman

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

Gentlemen,

Thank you for your valued comments which I will certainly bear in mind. They should also be of great value to others who are into fine work, and need a long-lasting source of slippery stuff.

In reality, it is too long ago to actually remember what I used to lubricate the clock. It could easily have been WD 40, or anything else to hand the first time I assembled the working parts and gave them a spin.

In hindsight, having done so much work on the clock the first time around (about two and a half years in total), I now see that I was also easily discouraged by several negative influences.

For example, an antique dealer suggested that the designer was `wrong’ in producing such a design and that I should convert the clock into a pendulum timepiece. His reason was that pendulums are an easier option when compared with a balance wheel and lever escapement. As a rank beginner I knew no better, but realise now that this was good advice. However, in my opinion, it would have been a mistake to alter anything, since the beauty of this clock is the elegant shape and the animation of the horizontal balance and escapement mechanism.

I wasn’t completely happy with the `scape pallet geometry either, which left me with further doubts about the success of the clock’s performance. Recent measurements and restructuring in CAD suggest that I may have to remake the escapement pallet. The swing of the actual lever is only about 12 to 13 degrees in total, whereas the pallet geometry is derived from a 15 degree swing. In redrawing the pallets, I’ve introduced my own angles for the impulse and locking faces. The results do however, appear to generate too much `drop’ at each impulse, and may even transfer less `energy’ than the original design. We’ll have to see!

Another issue was that the clock was incomplete anyway, lacking the essential balance spring (see my other `clock’ postings about bi-metallic balance wheels and springs). So the clock sat doing nothing other than being brought out from its place of rest as a talking piece among friends over dinner. I did win 1^st prize of $100 in a company competition, and before the tarnish really set in. I must mention here that the brass bar I bought for the fusee had an inclusion through its length. This only appeared months after cutting and polishing the fusee. I’ll have a photograph to show when I get around to cleaning this particular part, and with a bit more elbow grease, the inclusion may have been hidden.

In the interim, I intend to determine and locate the correct lubricant(s). The last time I did this in a Melbourne shop (c1975), the shop assistant tried to be smart with some inane comments about how many types of lubricant there were, etc. etc. In other words, I should have known what I wanted. He put me `right off’.

That’ll do for now.

Sam

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

Here’s a brief update.

Both Roy & Norman were on the ball wrt WD40.

I’ve just bought a short length of braided fishing line (80lb), which fits nicely into the 0.035″ fusee groove. This will join the spring barrel to the fusee, as a means of transmitting `power’ to the clock mechanism, and for compensating the torque variation as the main spring is wound up and runs down.

I thought this fishing line would also be ideal for getting into the grooves with metal polish. It was.

Cotton string didn’t last very long and began to jam into the fusee groove. I was right about the fishing line to some extent except that I discovered that the fusee grooves seemed to be loaded with a cement-like substance. It’s probably due to the WD40, as both Roy and Norman observed. It’s also taking some shifting, but I do have time to spare.

 

In any case, I no longer have a means at hand for re-machining the fusee.

Thanks for you comments, chaps.

Sam

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

As you will see, I’m still working through the clock, making the last few parts, and refining and polishing those parts which need it.

 

For your interest, I’ve just added another ten photographs to my album.

 

 Not more pics !#@?

 

I really appreciate all your comments, especially about making the balance spring, although I’ve still not reached the point of making one.

 

Your comments and questions about any aspect of this clock would be most welcome.

 

Regards,

 

Sam

Edited By Sam Stones on 28/10/2010 05:03:18

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

With a series of medical issues taking up my time, my progress in completing the skeleton clock has slowed to a crawl. Add to this, the variable Melbourne climate gives me less encouragement to stand bent over a lathe in the hot garage.

 

Got any snow to spare?  

 

However, I’ve introduced another picture album with four photographs showing a part of the escapement, and the action of the Lever from which the clock gets its name.

 

At the photographic magnification I used, the high polish on the lever can hardly be seen. The surfaces less accessible (especially the edges), look as if the lever was cut out with an oxy torch.  

 

Regards,

 

Sam

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Nice to see some further progress Sam. I’ve just this second finished talking to my son in Melbourne – he tells me it’s wet but warm there. Lucky you!  -2 Centigrade at present with – 7 forecast for tomorrow ! No snow at present here in the South West although that too is forecast. Even with some heating in the workshop too blooming cold!

 Any decisions on a case yet?

Regards

 

Norman 

Edited By NJH on 01/12/2010 23:01:47

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Sam,

 

I respect your quality of work  especially the hand sawing and finishing.  I always think that somehow hand working metal is, in some mysterious way, more satisfying than machining.  I get an incredible buzz and good feeling from a well made hand crafted part, no matter how long it takes.  I then feel more in tune with the great craftsmen of the past and feel part of a long and great tradition.

 

Well done boy!

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

Hi Norman,

Thanks for your comments wrt my latest posting.

Today in fact, we drove down to a place called Hastings for lunch, and then to watch the pelicans. It was pouring with rain on the way down. Then we had several hours of glorious sunshine, which turned into an enormous electric storm soon after we arrived home. As I write, our street is almost completely flooded.

 

As for the clock case, thanks for asking. 

 

I think it will be a simple acrylic box. Perhaps with the corners hidden with wooden quadrant, or small aluminium angle. I’m still concerned about getting a steady glue-line.

Hi TerryD,

Thanks for your comments too! If only I didn’t let the file slip occasionally. I’m not as steady as I used to be. Mind you, using the magnifier helps a lot.

When I first started to read about clock making, it became a very humbling experience to learn how they used to work.

 

WITHOUT machines in most cases!!!

Regards to all,

Sam

Edited By Sam Stones on 02/12/2010 06:11:30

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