I have no problem with long series – although preferably not more than three locos at a time please – but short series about simple or unusual models or gadgets can be equally engaging.
David’s engine could be straight out of a 1940’s edition of ME, a time when ingenuity was more important than having the latest kit. This is a good article because it is something a beginner could tackle as an introduction to the thrill of making a first working model. It also puts to shame those of us who keep putting off making a stirling engine!
Give the pear can engine an honorary gold medal for capturing the true spirit of model engineering.
Neil
P.S. – safely gloved hands in can cutting pic duly appreciated!
Slightly OT I recently bought a buffing wheel and pig tail for my
grinder so I can do some polishing. The (brief) instructions
recommended wearing gloves. The same instructions were given with a hand
held grinder I bought a little while ago.
My point is that I was always taught to never wear
gloves when using such equipment as they offer no real protection (a
grinding wheel or cutting disc will go straight through any glove
material in microseconds). On the other hand (pun not intended ) gloves can be caught by the rotating machinery and drag
your hand into the mechanism.
While buffing I know that objects can get
hot but surely that is a sign that you need to rest the part being
polished. When polishing flatware in a previous existence as a trainee
silversmith we were taught to hold it on a wooden board with three small
pins around the perimeter, with the part held by the slightly
overlapping heads of the pins.
What do others think about the practice of using
gloves near rotating machinery, it may be important for newcomers (and
old timers like me) who haven’t had proper training and rely on the
‘safety instructions’ offered?
Gloves-no, tryed that once at someones suggestion ’cause i complained about splinters, ended up with a splinter through the gloves, d**n hard getting the gloves off again.
Same problem pruning roses. Just dodge the sharp bits, and keep your finger out of unfriendly places. Ian S C
Depends on the job. I wouldn’t worry about a cut-off wheel getting through or ripping off a chrome leather glove. For the task illustrated I think the risk was the tin catching and spinning round – it was an unusual job.
I agree with not near something that could trap a glove, or to hold a swung tool like a billhook.
The trouble is we learn these things from mentors or the hard way; they are rarely written down for amateurs. Dropping the odd safety tip into general articles is the best way to reach people rather than tedious ‘workshop safety’ article like this post is becoming. So I’ll shut up now!
When I was an apprentice in the late 50`s for our first 9 months we did basic engineering ie hacksawing, filing & drilling. No bright MS only ruddy great lumps of black MS bar. You soon learnt to saw close to the line (less to file later ! ) We were taught how to fit a handle to a file & great was the wrath that fell upon anyone who dared to use a file without a handle. Drilling holes, the rules were hold the job in vice, roll up your overall sleeves & No neckties.
In another thread on the forum re chuck tightening we were also taught that with a drill chuck always tighten the chuck by using each of the chuck holes. That way a drill will never slip in the chuck jaws & score the drill body ( usually removing the drill size markings at the same time).
Only time I`ve used gloves is when i`ve been polishing something using my buffer but only because i know when I feel the heat through the gloves its time to put the job aside to let it cool down.
I`ve never previously used goggles when grinding or turning but I`d be lost without my eyes so now I do as I like reading etc.