Hello everyone – there are too many people to individually name!
Here is what I have done today:
Looked at the slides with the aid of a mirror and light. I did not want to dismantle without carrying out the test detailed below first. Noticed that one end of the gib was rubbing on the slide and has created a noticeable scratch on the surface. The other end was clear of the sliding surface.
Mounted the magnetic dti holder on the bottom of the column, thus eliminating the column top and milling head, and set the dti approximately in line with the machine spindle. Repeated the tests. No real difference, ie still a large difference at the rhs.
Then tried all the tests again but this time with both X & Y locked up tight for the measurement. Very slight difference as the X lock was activated, but overall no real difference.
Removed the leadscrew and all its bits and pieces. Then tried pushing the table back and forth. Quite difficult to get started but then generally easy once moving. Checked for gib slackness with the table at each end of the travel. With the table to the right, there was no discernable slackness, whilst at the other end, there was a small amount of slack. A slight adjustment has eliminated most of the slack, and the table still moves back and forth under manual pressure.
Also under this condition, although the dti was not moved (as far as I know), the actual readings were different, but the overall effect was the same of the rhs being high by about 0.25mm and as the graphs showed, the majority of the movement is at the rhs end, ie when the table is moving towards the left. To me, this indicates that there is some non-linearity somewhere.
The slides and dovetail recesses all seem clean and oily – no bits sticking up. No dirt in the recesses.
The Y slide is quite tight, however I will recheck this because there is the possibility that the handwheel adjustment may be overtight.
I am now attempting to determine by means of an accurate straight edge whether or not the table and/or the dovetails are twisted or warped. This has been made more complicated by my discovery that one of my so-called surface plates, a granite table thingy bought following a recommendation on an early thread on this forum, is actually hollow. It does seem that my scratched glass plate may be flat and that an unused ruler out of a cheapish combination set (see thread elsewhere on this forum) may be ok to use as a straight edge. More experimenting tomorrow after cutting the grass!
Someone asked how much use this machine has had. Answer is “not much”. It is nearly three years old, but spent most of months 2 to 13 out of action because I managed to break the plastic gears within the first month. And it becomes too darned cold in my garage in winter. Since the repair, all it has done is to trim up a pair of aluminium 3-way angle plates and some small bits of steel milling – nothing at all strenuous.
Gib screws are flat ended. In an edition of MEW some time ago, there was a comment that a round end, eg ball bearing, was the best method to use. As it happens, I have a quantity of 4mm balls looking for a home and my intention is to make new gibs and make new screws complete with ball ends. However, to make new gibs requires me to create an angled surface, which requires something like a milling machine. Bit like the “There’s hole in my bucket” song. But now that I know I have problems, I can probably mill them using the better end of the table.
Dovetail angle. Yet another problem to sort out. My initial measuring of the existing gibs suggests 62° which seems an odd sort of value. Now that I have removed the table, I can have a go at measuring the dovetails properly. Incidently, if the gibs are 62°, and the dovetails 60°, this would explain why the gib is cutting into the dovetail.
If nothing else, this will keep me off the streets!
Regards and thanks,
Peter G. Shaw