Mini Mill Control Board

[VCParticipant @vc44480]

[VCParticipant @vc44480]

[VCParticipant @vc44480]

Hi to all.

I have managed to destroy the "Whats this " Please don't ask how.

But would like to know if this can be bought and where from

Thankyou

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Its an xmt 2135 speed controller made by Sieg.

Arceurotrade sell them for around £85-£90….

What is the issue with yours?

I've sent you a pm, check your messages….

Edited By John Rudd on 14/12/2016 17:49:04

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

John,

It's probably irrelevant by now, but 'What's this' is identifying the small torroid positioned between the big resistor and the heatsinks.

MichaelG.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi John,
You beat me to suggesting Arc Euro. To save Vic some time this is a link to the board.

Edit.  Well spotted Michael. I had not seen it and I don't think John did either. (I thought Vic was talking about the complete board.  The item is the trigger transformer that drives the gates on the SCRs. There are not many turns on it so it could be rewound if the core is not broken.

 

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 14/12/2016 17:59:52

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

VC

When you say that you have destroyed the "Whats this" do you mean the small transformer where you have placed the title or do you mean that you are looking to replace the entire board. It is possible to repair these boards for a very small outlay depending on whats damaged. If it was a simple overload/being worked too hard for too long then it might only be something like the SCRs or diodes that have failed.

Where abouts are you, roughly, as there are several people on this forum that have the knowledge to repair a board like this and may be prepared to take it on, trouble is Christmas is coming up which could put a spanner in the works. The other alternative is to contact the supplier to see if they hold stock of this board. I suspect companies like Warco, Chester, Amadeal and possibly Arceurotrade would have boards would be suitable but they are usually fairly costly items.

MW

Looks like everybody got their reply in before me 

Edited By Martin W on 14/12/2016 17:58:26

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

2:1 … perhaps I was mistaken

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 14/12/2016 17:51:21:

John,

It's probably irrelevant by now, but 'What's this' is identifying the small torroid positioned between the big resistor and the heatsinks.

MichaelG.

Ok, I missed the annotation on the photo……its the trigger transformer for the two thyristors that form part of the bridge network….removing it from the pcb is nigh on impossible as the holes for it are plated thru types….only way is to destroy it and remove each pin one at a time…..

Oh, and I missed Les's description too……

I best not try and go to any parties this Xmas….I may be too late   

Edited By John Rudd on 14/12/2016 18:05:43

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

… but you do know the answer, John

Maybe a silly question, but could the leads be cut off to a tail, and a new component spliced onto them.?

A double-sided foam pad would probably support the weight.

MichaelG.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

I daresay that if the toroidal core can be saved, it may be possible to rewind it and solder the wire ends to the pins…..

But one has to ask, what has happened to lead to its demise?

What other unrevealed failures are there?

[VCParticipant @vc44480]

Thanks to all for the replies.

Yes a new board would sort my problem.

Rather an expensive way. So can this toroidal be bought and where from.

To reply to Mr Rudd no other unrevealed failures

Just an idiot with a 12 mm drill in the lathe trying to make a hole in the new plastic box

SNATCH end of the little beastie

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by VC on 14/12/2016 19:29:16:

Thanks to all for the replies.

Yes a new board would sort my problem.

Rather an expensive way. So can this toroidal be bought and where from.

To reply to Mr Rudd no other unrevealed failures

Just an idiot with a 12 mm drill in the lathe trying to make a hole in the new plastic box

SNATCH end of the little beastie

Google "ferrite ring transformer core" lots about, a few quid.

You will need lacquered copper wire of the same diameter and to wind on the same number of turns.

Someone might have a burnt out board they can take one off for you.

Neil

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

VC,

If you do swap out the transformer, dont use a solder sucker to clear the holes……use desoldering braid with some decent flux….else you may end up delaminating the copper print from the board. Use only suficient heat to melt the solder….too much and risk damaging the board….I use a temperature controlled soldering station…

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Vic,
Before you remove what is left of the transformer make a note of which way the windings are wound on the toroid so you can get the phasing of the two windings correct. So note the direction (clockwise or anticlockwise) that the wire is wound round the toroid. This must be done for both windings. Also try to count the number of turns on each winding. (If there is enough of it left.) If you can measure the dimensions of the core and post that information one of us may have a core of about the same size. We would just have to hope the permeability is about the same.

Les.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

The controller board appears to be the same as used in a Seig X-axis power feed.

Recently discussed at **LINK**

Paul.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

I've been looking at some pictures I took of my X3 board. The transformer has 15 turns on the primary and also on the secondary. I estimate that the core is about 12mm dia. (By comparing it with the size of the TO220 SCR package..I have some cores removed from CFL lamps that may work. (They are about 10mm dia.) I have seen some toroidal inductors in the past used on mains input filters on switch mode power supplies that might work. I have also found this pulse transformer on ebay that would probably work provided a way could be found to mount it.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 14/12/2016 22:45:34

[richard stevens 3Participant @richardstevens3]

Hi when the control board went in my daughters mini mill DC motor. I used one of these off ebay number:-91548965019
This one is 240v AC in & 90v DC out but you can get many different outputs including AC in & AC out. I even got one with 180v DC output to control the running machine motor on my South Bend. As they come from China I always buy more then 1 incase of mistakes wiring it.

[richard stevens 3Participant @richardstevens3]

This ebay item number 311617340418 is actually advertised as working with the mini lathe.>>

I hope this helps it really got me out of a hole, when I found I could use these.>>

Richard>>

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

That's useful to know, Richard … Thanks

MichaelG.

[VCParticipant @vc44480]

Hi to all

Once again in need of help on Mini Mill control board.

Nothing broken this time. Not being very good at electrics. Made note of where all the wires connected from switch. motor, mains and EMI filter.to the control board.

Then managed to lose the note.

Have spent hours looking up a wiring diagram that I could understand but just managed to get older.

HELP any body out there willing to put me out of my misery

Thanks

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi VC,
I have found this wiring diagram but it may not be exactly the same as yours. How did you get on finding a replacement pulse transformer ?

Les.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

The terminals marked A- and A+ go to the motor, P1,P2 and P3 go to the speed pot, L1 and L2 is the 240v ac input.

The P terminals, 2 is the pot wiper( middle tag) 1 is the left tag looking from the knob end, 3 is the remaining tag…

This info relates to the KB board or the chinese equivalent, NOT the Sieg boards.

Depending on whose mini mill it is, there may be another seperate board with a relay and some passive components. The AC and motor wiring goes via this board….

[VCParticipant @vc44480]

Thanks Les have seen that diagram but does not turn a light on for me my neighbour is a hottie on electronics so he has repaired the board so don't want to let the smoke out

and thanks to John but once again not making any sense to me

What I need and would like if someone has the same X1 mill where all the wires go

board has gnd know what wires to put there L1 and L2 not sure about these two the "pot" has a a three plug so thats sorted two other wires with k1 and k2 so ok there two wires left on switch 4 and 8 too A+ and A- so thats ok

now just left with brown and blue 6 of the little buggers 2 from the mains and 4 from the EMI Filter

Thanks for the replys

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi VC,
You will need to say whose version of the mini mill you have before anyone knows if they have the same one as you. Failing that I would start as John suggested and connect the wires that are easy to identify. If your mill has a reversing switch then the wires from the motor will connect to that then two wires from the reversing switch will connect to A+ and A- (It will not do any harm if they are the wrong way round. The forward and reverse positions will just be transposed.) Some pictures of the wiring would help. If you put some markers on the end of the wires that would be a great help so we can say something like connect wire "A" to terminal. This will be easier than trying to describe which wire we are talking about.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 08/01/2017 20:05:49

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