Milling machine in the (wood floored) workshop

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Yeah, but…. The base of my 2B is solid. Yes, the lugs are 2” long on each corner but the base will be supported all the way across. My cabinet/machine base is supported by 200mm wide timbers front and back. Timbers stand on a screeded concrete floor. I’m filling in the sides – only really to avoid things getting lost under the whole caboodle!🙂

The sides of your cabinet may well still be supported on your woodwork, so it’s only the 2” square lugs with the holding-down bolt holes that need attention?

Edited By not done it yet on 06/07/2021 22:15:23

[VicParticipant @vic]

I’ve just checked the specs for my VMC and it’s apparently 415kg and it’s fine in my shed. My lathe sits on a wooden bench and I’m sure weighs something similar to an ML7. The foundations are concrete, then there are 50mm bearers with insulation between and then topped with 19mm boards. I then laid 9mm ply on top that which was painted to give an easy to clean surface.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

I have a cunning idea…

How about plinths/columns of concrete paving slabs to support the feet?

They are also portable if you want to move the machine

Put a metal plate on the top of the plinth to spread the point loading created by each foot

450mm square, lots of second hand cheapies on ebay

The best ones are ex council high load versions 50mm thick

but you can go second hand for a quid a pop

Edited By Ady1 on 07/07/2021 08:24:00

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

For extra vibration stability you can sandwich a thin bit of wood/board between each slab

Can top off with bits of your sleeper if you want

[William AyerstParticipant @williamayerst55662]

Not done it yet, so you're saying that the two surfaces here (the red arrows) are the same, flat surface? Maybe it's a trick of the eye but it looks like the feet might be lower?

If the base is fully flat, then I can arrange it like so:

It is still technically outboard of those joists, so I would assume still needs some thick sheet material underneath at the very least?

All the best,

[William AyerstParticipant @williamayerst55662]

(duplicate)

Edited By William Ayerst on 07/07/2021 13:00:12

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I just looked at mine. I parked it on two 8×6” timber supports – one across the front and one at the back (because I had the timber it and was not particularly concerned if all the base touched or not. I note that it is sitting tightly on the front two inches all the way across the base and lugs with about a 1/8th” gap behind.

I expect the situation is similar at the rear. It will not be going anywhere, IMO, and will not be secured to the screeded concrete floor unless it does move!

None of the machines at college were bolted down – the technician shifted them around with a crowbar as required. They were a bit heavier than this machine but on a very smooth concreted or screeded floor.

Whether yours is, or will be, exactly the same as mine will become apparent. As I raised mine by 6”, a 2” wide timber bearer was not in contention for choice of timber size.

[Graham MeekParticipant @grahammeek88282]

I had a similar problem many years ago when I first had my Emco F3. My solution was to cut holes in the floor using a hole saw at the machine hold down bolt locations. The concrete beneath was drilled to take an M10 Rawl bolt anchor. Studding of the correct length was then inserted and a large nut and washer tightened onto the concrete. Using a couple of layers of damp proof membrane between the concrete and the washer, and being sufficiently large enough for what comes next.

A piece of steel tube was then inserted into the hole in the floor and level with the floor surface. This was filled with some concrete and troweled flat. Silicone sealant around the tube floor joint made everything neat and tidy.

Due time was allowed for the concrete to cure and then the machine was installed and levelled.

When I moved from the shed into my current workshop, the steel tubes were rotated using a chain pipe wrench and this undid the nuts, with hindsight I would use wing nuts now. After removing the steel concrete distance pieces, and tapping the M10 anchors after inserting a bolt, this allowed the Rawl bolt anchor to be removed and the holes were then filled with some grout mix.

Regards

Gray,

[Author]

Posts