Milling Chucks

[NobbyParticipant @nobby]

Hi

A little tip using these collets. You can use cutters with no thread ? Make a dummy center Cut from an old cutter . Srew in place tighten

Regards Nobby

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Hi all, I notice that there is still talk of `give it a bash` to remove MT chucks. I believe that I have described “my” system on another thread somewhere. I say “my” in the sense that it is what I use but not original thinking – I got the idea from elsewhere.

I have got a top hat shaped bar of steel on the top of my vertical mill spindle, secured to the spindle with 3 Allen grub screws. Inside the top hat, there is a trapped nut, cross-pinned to the drawbar. Top of the drawbar has another nut cross-pinned to it. The top hat was machined from very large AF Hex steel bar. Spanners on the flats of the top hat and the nut pinned to the top of the drawbar, the `hidden` trapped nut cannot go anywhere, forcing the drawbar to revolve but not move axially but will unscrew from the back of the 2MT taper on the Clarkson chuck, shoving same out of the female taper. Works like a dream!

Another thing, anyone got the damper ring jammed? My cure for that, is a disc of thin plastic, like a giant washer inside, stopping it sticking. The plastic was supplied by Nescafe, off the top of their tins!

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi John

 

That sounds useful but I’m having trouble visualising it. Any chance of you posting a sketch please?

 

Regards

 

Norman

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

Well this is why the Autolock has its damping ring in 2 MT, (but not in 3).

It is actually there to stiffen the assembly, but to remove, you wind that damping ring hard back on its threads against the spindle nose, take up the tension, and then, as with most tapers, a small tap or jar to the system, and out it comes with great ease.It should be tight when milling ot stiffen hte assembly.

 

It is only a professional version of what Jason is suggesting, but operated with a c spanner- and of course it has left hand hreads.

 

Posilock vs Autolock – the Autolock is a bit bulkier, but has a bit less tool overhang. I prefer the Autolocks method of stopping the collet from rotating. Beyond that there is not much other than price, – the autolock is more closely ground with less clearances, and while the Posilock is a bit more convenient to use in a proper milling taper, the Autolock will be vastly more rigid in 2MT with that damping ring properly tightened.

Edited By mgj on 08/02/2011 17:33:11

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

What John is describing is something similar to George McLatchie’s design for the Warco MiniMill in MEW96 (Feb 2004). A very good idea which works like a dream.

All I want now is one for the lathe!

 

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

[Author]

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