I am trimming my pistons on a 1972 Myford Super 7 with 3phase motor VFD controlled with segmented belt drive drive, few would believe me. My smallest reliable cut is 1um on diameter, but have taken 1/2 um cut on diameter when fitting a piston for Glen Lewis. Rob is always impressed by what I am doing off a Myford S7. They had a new one back in 73 or 74 and it was not good enough for their liners or pistons back then. I have however refitted the spindle to bearing assembly, reset the bed clearances, and added a constant gravity oil supply, and refitted the compound slide as well. But nothing that anyone else could not do with time and care. Oh, and made a M8X 0.5mm pitch cross slide screw, but it is a normal RH thread, not the normal lefthand thread that is commonly used. The 0.5mm pitch with the hundred thou dial, makes it read just like a metric micrometer. My lathe is in room at around 20c temp to help with things. So do get there, I have the compound slide on a slight angle, so that 4 thou on the compound is 1um of X axis movement. The original compound as supplied was not capable of this fine enough and repeatable movement, so was reworked to be able to do so. I have a nice 1um 0-30 Tesa micrometer for measuring the pistons with in Combination with small Vee block. It gives a finer reading than just using the micrometer on its own. Another advantage is it allows you to see if the part is round as well. With the liners they are tapered so make for a really good gauge. If the liner is out of round you have to fit tighter to allow for wear etc to get a really good seal. Some piston alloys, even though they are from sintered stock, just will not stay round. So avoid those when possible. Some materials wont keep round to 8 microns or so. Typical taper is 2.5 micron per mm, but some have less taper like 1.2 micron per mm, while other earlier liners had lots of taper like 3.8 micron per mm. The only tool I have found to be able to take the very fine cuts on pistons is the very nice Summitomo PCD insert NF-DCMT11T304N-LD DA1000
Here is a picture of a piston being trimmed before I replaced the rear bearing set and reset the front taper and spindle again. and another just recently. Looking through the exhaust port , you can see the new bearing and refitted spindle is making a much nicer surface finish on the piston. It is hard to see in the 1st pic, but a 1um cut makes very fine sand is the way I describe it. I hand feed at around 0.02mm /rev, it runs around 700 or so rpm, and takes around 1 minute per pass for the less than 15mm length of piston. So that is like around 4 seconds per mm or so or 1/4 of a mm per second how ever you want to work the time/distance out. I don't use power feed as the surface finish becomes junk in comparison and it effects the repeatability of the carriage. Having an old fashion clock with a moving second hand is really helpful in gauging feedrates etc I find. I used to trim with the pison on a fixture and then fitted them to the rod. But with the new press fit pin pistons, the assembly has to be done with the rod in place, so a modified version of the fixture shown with a holder that held the rod and tightened from the back end through the spindle was made. Some days I don't trim pistons, due to temp in the room conditions, or if I don't have the right mindset to do it.
2019
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 07/07/2019 17:09:08