Good article Ramon. I do a lot of anodising and would like to add a comment or two.
Unless I missed it you don't seem to mention the safety tank.
This consists of a gallon of water into which is dumped 1/2lb sodium bicarb. Any problems with parts/ flesh etc coming into contact then a plunge into the bicarb tank neutralises in a few seconds. This tank comes out first and goes back last.
When it comes to the dyeing of the parts it all depends on two things,
1 The correct length of time in the anodising tank; minimum of 1 hour at 15v, longer is better. you will know when as the current will drop to low level as the surface becomes electrically non conductive.
2 The correct temperature of the dye tank. Assuming that professional dyes are used, ( £10 – £12 for enough to last a very long time. my tank has done several thousand parts and I have only used 1/2 the dye powder.) The temperature should be held very close to 55 deg C. At 60deg the anodised surface will start to seal. Dyeing will take about 30 seconds. Then into the water tank at any temperature over 70 C for at least 1 hr. There will be only a very slight leakage of dye.
As you say Anodising is a straightforward process that responds very well to order and method.
If anyone is interested then I can put up some pics of the holders I use. Simple to make but a bit expensive on Titanium. BUT well worth it. No lost contact.
Hope this adds to your article.
ray