Greetings all.
If I can relate my experience with surface grinding, using a horizontal spindle machine, it might be of some help to those that are new to the process of precision grinding as the principles can be applied for cylindrical grinding too.
After doing all the preparatory work such as selecting and dressing the wheel and mounting the job to the table or chuck, comes the actual process of passing the workpiece under the wheel to remove the waste material.
Firstly, use a common sense approach to find the point at which the wheel just touches the top of the job, similar to those used for milling etc.
Position the workpiece in front of the wheel, with a small gap to allow the workpiece to traverse without passing under the wheel.
When you’ve done that, apply a roughing downfeed in the order of 0.01mm to 0.02mm and flood with coolant.
Start to traverse the workpiece smoothly, left to right at an appropriate speed – and if we’re talking about a manual traverse machine here, this usually means about as fast as you can move it!
Apply a crossfeed of about 2.0mm at the extremity of table travel, but note that with a wheel rotating in a clockwise direction, any crossfeed applied whilst the work table is moving right to left will be a climb cut and so more likely to grab, particulary if an anti-friction work table is fitted. If the wheel does grab, it can move on its flange mounting or become crushed locally, thus causing defects in the finish.
It’s quite possible to crossfeed at either or both extremes of travel and depending on how all the above factors are interacting with each other, this may or may not have an impact on surface finish.
If conditions are right, you’ll get a lovely smooth finish. If things aren’t going your way, you could be seeing judder, crossfeed lines, or burning. The first thing you should do here is dress the wheel to open it up and allow it to cut freely again.
Check out some of the models and tools at any exhibition and you’ll almost certainly see some of these defects. In my opinion it’s purely down to unfamiliarity with the grinding process and is not intended as a criticism of the builder.
When I started, I found it best have quite a fast table speed, as it helps keep the wheel sharp. Having it too fast will open the wheel up so much that you’ll get a very coarse finish on the job. You’ll then need to re-dress the wheel and slow the table until you reach a good compromise of finish vs wheel wear.
Bear in mind that varying the wheel speed whilst keeping the table speed the same can also be done, as the important factor is the ratio between wheel speed and work traverse speed, because this ratio determines chip size and tooth (wheel grit) load.
As an example:- With the wheel locked in a stationary position with only the workpiece moving past the wheel, would result in a chip of size equal to the length of the job multiplied by the depth of cut. This is an impossibly large tooth load and would break down the wheel quickly. Reversing this scenario should highlight the other extreme, that being, tiny chip equals tiny tooth load which in turn equals a soon to be blunt wheel (frequent dressing).
Finding the right balance of the above is the key to good grinding.
Martin.