First thing to do is check the ratio between the headstock spindle and that first gear sticking way out there. It SHOULD be 1:1, but who knows for sure unless it is checked?
Also, check to see if that round knob sticking out the front of the headstock in that same area is a tumbler reverse mechanism, ie does it reverse the direction of rotation of that first gear when the knob is moved?
If all is good, one way, with useful application when cutting other Metric threads on your lathe, might be to use that secondary gearbox on your leadscrew with the A, C, B labels on it. If one of these settings reduces the drive to the leadscrew by 2:1, (ie two turns of the drive gear becomes one turn of the leadscrew) then you have in effect an 8tpi leadscrew instead of a 4tpi. You can then use a standard gearing chart (such as Cleeve page 45) for an 8tpi lead screw. This method would give you a gear train for 1.5mm pitch of 50 – 25/30 – 127 (plus of course the 2:1 reduction in that final ABC gearbox).
Otherwise if you just want the quick set up for one job, the 30 – Any Idlers – 127 suggested by Les Jones above is the way to go. On Cleeve's chart for 8tpi it is listed for .75mm pitch, so will give 1.5mm with 4tpi leadscrew. You can always use Cleeve's chart this way for other sizes too, if like me you are mathophobic.
Best thing to do is set up a test piece and try it out and check with a metric thread pitch gauge before tackling the job itself.
Edited By Hopper on 28/04/2017 01:58:57
Edited By Hopper on 28/04/2017 02:00:14