Meshing pinions and wheels in the bracket clock.

[johnp10Participant @johnp10]

On Sunday 7th July I received an email message requesting clarification on the meshing of 0.55 mod pinions whith 0.6 mod wheels in my bracket clock design.

Sadly, his message disappeared from my laptop before I could respond and I was unable to retrieve it.

If the gentleman reads this note, will he kindly repeat his message to johnp10@virginmedia.com, when I will endeavour to answer it.

John Parslow.

[johnp10Participant @johnp10]

[merlinParticipant @merlin98989]

I don't want to intrude on a private conversation but if you are talking about simply meshing two clock wheels of different modules, I would be intererested in that, if only to add to my bank of knowledge, such as it is.

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

It is not unusual to mesh a pinion 1/2 mod less than the wheel it makes the pinion leaves that little bit stronger and don't forget particularly on old long case clocks and before they had gear cutters pinion leaves would be filed so modules didn't come into it

Roy

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

ps use the larger module to calculate the blank diameter but use the smaller mod cutter to cut the blank

Roy

[merlinParticipant @merlin98989]

Thanks for the reply.

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

John P Sorry if I took over your thread No disrespect was intended

Regards Roy

[johnp10Participant @johnp10]

Hello Gents,

When I first built my skeleton clock in the mid to late nineties, a number of experienced clock-makers were advocating the use of a pinion cutter 1/2 a module less than the wheel with which it is to be meshed but cut on the correct diameter of pinion blank for the full module. In this case a 0,55 mod cutter on a 0.6 mod pinion blank.

I tried this system and found that, correctly meshed, this produced a very free running wheel train.

I then crossed my fingers and tried cutting a 12 leaf pinion whih a 0.55 mod 8 leaf cutter, this again ran without any problems.

The two skeleton clocks made by myself and one by a friend have been working satisfactorily for some 15 years so I adopted this principle in my bracket clock design, again with no problems.

Experienced clockmakers can sense when pinion and wheel pairs are correctly meshed but, being a novice, I set a wheel and pinion in the simple depth tool until the tips of pinion leaf and wheel tooth just `brushed` together and then reduced the centre distance by the sum of the addenda of wheel and pinion. This worked fine.

I hope that this experience helps othersand would like to thaks those who have already commented on this topic.

John Parslow

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