Machining 1050 Grade Aluminium

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Machining 1050 Grade Aluminium

Home Forums Materials Machining 1050 Grade Aluminium

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  • #764052
    Steve Withnell
    Participant
      @stevewithnell34426

      I have some 2mm aluminium sheet I bought to make an instrument panel.   It happens to be 1050 grade and I’m struggling with feeds and speeds.    Running a brand new 3mm carbide cutter at 7000rpm (Sieg KX1 max) and pushing at 125mm/min,  its cutting   with some pretty horrible burrs, almost like the Al is plastic and melting, rather than cutting.   It took me longer to de-bur than to machine!  125mm/min isn’t exactly motoring, but 1050 is a very soft material about 20HB.

      Any thoughts on speeds and deeds, cutter types etc?   What I have got wrong…

      Many thanks

      Steve

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      #764054
      John Haine
      Participant
        @johnhaine32865

        Wrong material for machining!  References say it is good for forming and welding but has poor machinability leading to clogged cutters.

        #764064
        JasonB
        Moderator
          @jasonb

          It’s gummy stuff.

          If it were 6082 I’d be feeding at 600-700mm/min with an uncoated cutter with high helix and paraffin.

          #764066
          Dave Halford
          Participant
            @davehalford22513

            The alloy is melting less speed and try paraffin

            #764076
            Neil Lickfold
            Participant
              @neillickfold44316

              You want to use a single flute Aluminium cutter.  Try running around 3k to 5k rpm. Feedrate of 0.01 to 0.03mm per rev.

              Cut depth of around 0.5 to 1mm. If clamped well, should be able to cut at the full depth of the sheet.  I use a cutting oil from Blaser CF35.  It also helps to have a vacuum cleaner nozzle mounted to draw away the swarf, and have a light airblow mounted to direct chips to the vacuum port.

              The near pure alloys are gummy. I avoid the kero because of it’s flammability.  Water with some dishwashing detergent, also works well for these gummy alloys. Drilling a start hole also helps a lot. But I never recommend an end point hole to be drilled. Breaking through the hole can sometimes cause problems.

              Cutting over some sheet wood, and then clamping the sheet either side of the cut also helps with cutting thin plate. Another way is to use double sided tape to hold the material to a painted or sealed material like custom wood sheet.

              #764081
              Ian Johnson 1
              Participant
                @ianjohnson1

                I have machined some parts from soft aluminium on my KX1,  with similar horrible results,  then tried a single flute, diamond like coated (DLC) carbide cutter, made for aluminium and soft material like laminate plastic and wood.  Plenty of paraffin/ wd40 and played around with the speeds and feeds, slowed down to about 3000rpm and increased the feed rate.  Very little burrs and clean cuts with the chips flying off.

                Trying to get a better grade of aluminium sheet is difficult,  until you get above 4 or 6mm thickness.

                Regards IanJ

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