M10 x 1.0 Fine

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

M3.5 was a replacement for 4BA – you may find 4BA on old switch fittings that haven’t been changed since the 60s or early 70s – a right pain! M3.5 taps and screws are readily available from electrical trade shops but being sold in small numbers and restricted lengths tend to be expensive but not so expensive as 4BA

[Maurice TaylorParticipant @mauricetaylor82093]

Hi, M3.5 electric socket screws various lengths around £5 for 50 at CPC.

Maurice

[VicParticipant @vic]

Posted by Hopper on 02/01/2023 03:37:12:

Would 't it be much easier to use a standard sized thread and readily available fasteners to suit?

Bolts in M10 x 1.25 or 1.5 are common as muck.

Cutting a 10mm thread of any pitch with a tap should not be difficult. The finer pitch should not make a noticeable difference in effort to cut the thread. And obviously the faff to get bolts to fit the 1.0 pitch outweighs the effort saved, if there is any.

If you are finding an M10 x 1.25 or 1.5 thread difficult to cut with a tap, most likely you need to drill the tapping hole a bit bigger. See Tubal Cain's Model Engineer's Handbook for just how much oversize you can go and still retain 95 per cent of the thread strength. Down to 65 per cent thread engagement will give this rating.

Make life easy for yourself. That's my motto.

I’m quite happy to use standard metric coarse for most jobs. Having tried fine threads for M10 and M12 when they were required I found them much easier to cut and the finish looked better as well. I suggest you try tapping fine threads for yourself, you may be surprised at how much easier they cut in these sizes. Even M14 fine used for one particular job was easier than M12 coarse.

I’ve got the Workshop practice book on Drills, Taps & Dies and do refer to it if needed. Like many folks I keep a set of tapping drills with my taps. I also have a second set of sizes if needed for less thread engagement if I’m tapping harder materials.
I’ve also looked at M10 x 1.25 and there are far fewer options than metric coarse or I would have bought a set of taps. 😉

Unfortunately I haven’t found a local supplier that sells small quantities. Buying online from most vendors incurs excessive postage costs for the modest amounts I normally buy. eBay has been a real boon for me buying fasteners over the past 10 or 15 years. At least for 99% of what I’ve needed. In fact I’ve found what I need even on this occasion by buying from China. (Thanks for the offer Jim) I will just have to wait a few weeks for them but I have other jobs to do anyway.

It surprises me I can get less common fasteners so easily from China that UK vendors either can’t supply or charge extortionately for. Things I’ve bought from abroad at very modest cost have been things like Brass socket set screws, Torx socket set screws, Torx insert screws and now M10 x 1 stainless socket set screws to name just a few.

I can of course make my own fasteners in a pinch but I particularly like to use socket screws when I can. I have a particular aversion to slotted, pozidrive and philips fasteners even for woodscews and generally use Torx or Robertson screws when I have them.

All sorted now, thanks for the input everyone.

[OldironParticipant @oldiron]

Posted by noel shelley on 01/01/2023 11:15:05:

10 x 1 was/ is a common thread for lamp holders, the fitting is often brass. 8 x 1 is also not uncommon. Noel.

I used lamp extended nipples when making QCTP holders as I was too lazy to thread them on the lathe. I bought a box of 20, 60 x 10 x 1. They were available in brass or steel.

regards

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Vic on 02/01/2023 11:43:20:

Posted by Hopper on 02/01/2023 03:37:12:

Would 't it be much easier to use a standard sized thread and readily available fasteners to suit?

Bolts in M10 x 1.25 or 1.5 are common as muck.

Cutting a 10mm thread of any pitch with a tap should not be difficult. The finer pitch should not make a noticeable difference in effort to cut the thread. And obviously the faff to get bolts to fit the 1.0 pitch outweighs the effort saved, if there is any.

If you are finding an M10 x 1.25 or 1.5 thread difficult to cut with a tap, most likely you need to drill the tapping hole a bit bigger. See Tubal Cain's Model Engineer's Handbook for just how much oversize you can go and still retain 95 per cent of the thread strength. Down to 65 per cent thread engagement will give this rating.

Make life easy for yourself. That's my motto.

I’m quite happy to use standard metric coarse for most jobs. Having tried fine threads for M10 and M12 when they were required I found them much easier to cut and the finish looked better as well. I suggest you try tapping fine threads for yourself, you may be surprised at how much easier they cut in these sizes. Even M14 fine used for one particular job was easier than M12 coarse. …

…

I have tapped a few threads over the years and never found anything sub-16mm (5/8" ) that I would call hard to cut, coarse or fine. For about 13mm upwards I do use a longer handled tap wrench rather than the shorter T type.

Glad you found what you want in the end. I get a lot of non-urgent stuff of that nature from Aliexpress in China. Truly amazing what they have listed and small quantities seem to be more than welcome. And surprisingly good quality most of it too. I think it is surplus industrial stuff, not "hobby grade" so it is what they use in their own factories and machine shops etc, of which they must now have literally millions.

 

Edited By Hopper on 02/01/2023 12:29:54

[VicParticipant @vic]

Update:

The tapered screws I ordered arrived in a day or two. The Stainless Steel ones from China arrived this morning.

Due to the best made plans going awry they have now become a “stock item” as I no longer require them for this project. Glad to have them though at the price and I’m sure they will get used.

[Author]

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