Well – you know the silver solder will have a strength approaching that of the parent metal – though you can look up the figures in detail.
Then you work out your bond area for Loctite, and look up the shear strength of that bond at that service temperature. You know the area of the bond and you can work out the load.
With respect that is not a question that anyone can answer at a a distance, because, to give a decent answer you need to know these things. Unless you want to go by experience “I loctited my injectors/item x/item y and that held Ok so it would be Ok on yours”. Well it might be, and it might not, just depending on the conditions.
There is one important point though – get it wrong, and in that sort of application, even a decently made bonded joint will fail. A silver soldered one is most unlikely to.
For my money, I’d stick with the silver solder – its just so quick, neat easy and sure. Still, others may have done perfectly well with other methods