Light machine oil

[richard markhamParticipant @richardmarkham58340]

When a model engine needs a ‘light machine oil’ is 3in1 suitable?

 

This is for slides and linkages as opposed to steam oil to go into a lubricator.

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

3 in 1 is better than nothing but tends to go a bit gummy. A better choice is a SAE 32 “hydraulic” oil. This is the type of oil often specified for use on lathes such as Nuto 32. Lots of on line sellers or “jack oil” from a motor factor or machine mart.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

I think oils around the 30 viscosity mark wouild be ok but from my point of view stay away from mineral car oils as the will absorb moisture (rust). I think hyd oils would be a better bet.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

For the smaller engines upto around 1″ bore I tend to use watch oil when being run slowly on air for display as I have had 32 weight oil hold things like piston valves in lapped bores open. Same for flame lickers and hot air engines which don’t make a lot of power so anything that reduces sticktion helps. For the larger hit & miss engiens I’ll go to 32 and they have  abit more power and run faster.

[bernard towers]

On bernard towers Said:

I think oils around the 30 viscosity mark wouild be ok but from my point of view stay away from mineral car oils as the will absorb moisture (rust). I think hyd oils would be a better bet.

Ha! I have a huge drum of hydraulic oil! No idea what SAE it is though.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

PLEASE DO NOT mix up ISO and SAE numbers  !  SAE 10 eg hydraulic oil is ISO 32 and SAE 30 is ISO 68

Noel.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

I see 3 in 1 as a ‘Jack of all trades and master of none’ product‘!  Jolly useful for general purpose oiling: door hinges, rust prevention, and many other ‘doesn’t matter much’ jobs.  It’s a little too thick for delicate mechanisms and a little too thin for hefty ones.   Under no circumstances use it on a clock – as Robert mentioned it goes gummy, and glues up light mechanisms.   (The gumminess helps prevent rust, hurrah, but only if rust is a problem.)

Many oils are highly engineered to meet a particular application.  Car Engine oil has a hard life and is usually full of additives best avoided, but I use plain 20/80 as a general ‘splash it about’ workshop oil because it’s cheap and readily available.

There are many occasions when any oil is better than none.  Otherwise, it pays to choose the right type of oil, or similar!

Clock Oil for clocks – it’s thin.  I use it on my Coffee Cup Stirling.

Sewing Machine Oil is somewhat thicker for larger delicate mechanisms.  Probably not ideal on a model steam engine because they get much hotter than typewriters and friends, but it works well enough for me!  Too expensive to use in large quantities on a big steam engine.

ISO32 Hydraulic Oil is thicker again, but, unlike 3in1, it does a good job in almost all ‘our’ Model Engineering requirements.  If there was such a thing as a Model Engineering Oil, ISO32 might be it!

Way Oil is excellent on lathe and milling machine slides but much too sticky for anything else (usually!)

Avoid Gearbox or Extreme Pressure oils unless particularly called for.   If used check the label: EP oils often contain an additive that corrodes copper, brass, and bronze, all of which might be lurking inside machine tools and models.

Dave

 

 

[noel shelley]

On noel shelley Said:

PLEASE DO NOT mix up ISO and SAE numbers  !  SAE 10 eg hydraulic oil is ISO 32 and SAE 30 is ISO 68

Noel.

Sorry, my bad.

Robert.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

I’D LIKE to see Daves 20/80 oil ? Splash about, does it eventually trickle down or just stay put ? Noel.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

3 in 1 can damage plastics, as I know to my cost!

Hydraulic oil should be OK.

Motor oils are unlikely to be hydroscopic, or they would absorb the moisture produced during combustion, and in the blow by passing into the crankcase.

Never saw any sign of it in the very many engines with which I has contact.

If the oil in the sump emulsifies, there is a problem, either a blown head gasket or a porous casting.

Howard

[Allen NorrisParticipant @allennorris97892]

Not wishing to hijack this thread but given the discussion I thought I might ask. I have about 500ml. 2 stroke oil but no longer have any 2 stroke engines. I just wondered if the were any other application for which it might be used or whether just to give it away to someone with such an engine?

Any thoughts?

Allen

[dodmoleParticipant @dodmole]

2 stroke oil nicely loosened the hinges on my garden shed door and it seems to work well on the height adjuster on my 4 stroke mower.

[Howard Lewis]

On Howard Lewis Said:

3 in 1 can damage plastics, as I know to my cost!

Hydraulic oil should be OK.

Motor oils are unlikely to be hydroscopic, or they would absorb the moisture produced during combustion, and in the blow by passing into the crankcase.

Never saw any sign of it in the very many engines with which I has contact.

If the oil in the sump emulsifies, there is a problem, either a blown head gasket or a porous casting.

Howard

Nearly 50 years ago I moved from God’s county (Yorkshire) to occupied Lancashire (Warrington). I’d always used Duckhams oil but I started getting a gooey build up in the rocker box of the car. Switching to GTX cured it. I always assumed it was because Yorkshire is a lot less damp than Lancashire. I did nothing else to the engine, and it wasn’t losing water.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Castrol tells a good story, Duncan … even if it’s a bit lacking in technical detail:

https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-brands/castrol-gtx-brand.html#

MichaelG.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

This was back in the days of changing oil at 6000miles manufacturers recommendation, 5000 if you were careful. Proper oil filter with a 7/16 AF bolt holding it together, you just changed the filter, not the complete cartridge like the modern efforts. I’m not all rose tinted glasses, when I got a Nissan bluebird it said change the oil at 10, 000 miles, it was so clean when I drained it out I was tempted put it back in. Instead of taking the points out and grinding the pip off at 3000,complete replace at 6000 it had an everlasting electronic setup. After 30000 I decided I just had to look at the plugs, the little bent electrode thing had completely disappeared, but it started first kick, and new plugs made no difference to performance or economy. It was still going strong at 160000 moles when some idiot towing a trailer too heavy for his car lost it on the motorway and sideswiped SWMBO onto the hard shoulder.

[Perko7Participant @perko7]

For the bushes in my rod-drive petrol loco I have used chain-saw oil for the past 12 months with no apparent problems so far. Stays put but does not go gooey.

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