LED lighting

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Ow! I was only making an observation !

[quote] Interesting structural differences. [/quote]

My current phone appears to have an identical layout, but without the dark marks that are presumably the components on top?

Without knowing the relative scales it's impossible to make meaningful comparisons of density.

Neil*

*Apologies 15 minutes of iPromotion is too much for me

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 28/08/2016 10:35:17:

Without knowing the relative scales it's impossible to make meaningful comparisons of density.

.

Not quite true, Neil [?]

The density is seen from the ratio of bright areas to dark, and can therefore be compared visually using the two photos.

… Physical size of those elements is [as you have already pointed-out] only relevant in the context of a particular viewing distance.

For information though: The spacing on my iPod display is 326ppi, so that's 1/326" between any two similar features, horizontally or vertically.

MichaelG.

[simon Hewitt 1Participant @simonhewitt1]

I need to rewire my workshop – what is the best lighting to fit now? Currently about 5 X 5-foot flourescent tubes, lower power would be good. Are LED adhesive strips really useable? LED Flu tube replacements( which are expensive). Downlighters? Interested in views, thanks.

Simon H

[Anonymous]

Posted by simon Hewitt 1 on 01/09/2018 21:11:55:

Interested in views, thanks.

Me too as I'm thinking of updating my workshop lighting, currently 5 flourescent tubes. I spend more on running the lighting than running the machine tools!

Andrew

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

6 twin 5 ft tubes in my workshop arranged as two fittings per bay with each bay separately switched. Decent light but even with brand name tubes life is well below specification and replacements aren't exactly inexpensive from the electrical shop 400 yards up t'road. With only 8 ft ceiling height I'm unhappy with vulnerability when moving long stuff. Not busted one yet but clonked 'em a time or six.

So when one tube gave out a few months back I grabbed a cheapy 40 W 600 x 600 LED panel in daylight white to try from a "who they" type E-Bay seller and strapped it up with simple corner clips. More light than the tubes, harsher but not tiring which was a major worry given the way LEDs play very fast and loose with spectral content to get the nominal colour temperature rating. Just a number as colour temperature applies only to thermal sources.

Having decided to replace all the fluorescents with LED panels when the price was right I recently got two boxes of 600 x 600 panels from Opus Lighting :- **LINK** on an offer deal which gave a sensible price from a real firm. Test out OK, just got to sort out an engineered mounting system to put flush with the ceiling. Opus do a single panel kit but price is silly. Plan A is to make something, Plan B is to cut down standard 600 x 600 ceiling tile mount rails to make individual squares.

Clive.

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

there was a discussion re LED panels over 1yr ago on here.
I have 6 in use in my small workshop – effectively re-using the supplied mounting brackets for suspended ceiling mountings as a Z clamp to hold panel close to ceiling (a small 2mm plastic space was needed as well) – however the more recent models only supply these mountings as add-on extras – TLC (a UK based chain) supply a plastic frame about 40mm in depth to hold both the panel and the driver sitting on top of the panel – looks neat and allows reuse of existing mains wiring to a ceiling rose – I suggested this for the London SMEE lecture room (warm white LED) where its been in use for over a year and also looks ok in my living room – both cases use dimmable panels – my workshop uses cold white and because they replaced spots I could push the drivers into the ceiling space above the panel

[Alan VosParticipant @alanvos39612]

Posted by Ajohnw on 27/08/2016 10:12:34:

They even make one now since last time I had an interest that is said to dim following black body radiation patterns, sic. Interesting to see what the blue does to achieve that and no way is it the same as black body radiation really.

That reference to black body radiation will be c/o the marketing department.

The objective of these devices is to change colour temperature as they dim, to match that of dimmed incandescent. Which is what customers are interested in. The connection betweent the two terms is that the design seeks to have the colour temperature follow the black body locus. The LED spectral power distribution will, as noted above, not be that of a black body.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Can't understand people wanting 1kw of lighting and then saying it is expensive to run. I replaced my 60W incandescent a few years back with a CFL and last year replaced that with a 3ft 35W strip from Screwfix for about £35. Much brighter and harsher but this light is just for walking across the room. At each bench/machine I have a local light to put the light were I need it, not burning gas to light up the back of my head where I don't have eyes.

[Geoff TheasbyParticipant @geofftheasby]

Yes, the sticky LED strips do work, I use them a lot. In a harsh environment, put them in a clear plastic tube for protection.

I just fitted LED lighting in my garage, using a 12 volt 'wall wart' and two LED panels intended for use in car interiors, a couple of quid each from Amazon.

Geoff

[peak4Participant @peak4]

I've recently had a new garage/workshop built, for the vehicles, as opposed to machine tools.

For the main lighting I've use six 60x60cm LED panels wired as 3 pairs; no point in providing lighting above an open sectional garage door etc.
The roof trusses are slightly closer spacing than standard, as the builder ordered an extra one in error, so the panels are slightly too large for the spacing. I'd have preferred a longer garage and 60cm spacing, but the concrete footings had already been cast when he realised.
Since this photo was taken, the central area in the trusses has now been floored with chipboard and a sinlge batten light added in the apex operated of a pull switch by the loft ladder.

The lighting for the car pit consists of a pair of LED batten lights, switched individually .

The LED panels provide nice even lighting, using "natural light" panels, rather than cool or warm, though they are harder to source.

Similarly the LED battens work well, and are reasonably rugged against dropped spanners etc. Switched individually, so I can have the light source behind me, rather than staring into it.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by peak4 on 02/09/2018 12:01:57:

I've recently had a new garage/workshop built, for the vehicles, as opposed to machine tools.

.

I can't find a 'garage envy' emoticon, but would have posted it if I could.

MichaelG.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 02/09/2018 12:19:47:

I can't find a 'garage envy' emoticon, but would have posted it if I could.

MichaelG.

I had to move town to be able to afford it though, hence the shift from Sheffield to Buxton.
I don't think you're far away are you?

Bill

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by Geoff Theasby on 02/09/2018 09:52:26:

Yes, the sticky LED strips do work, I use them a lot. In a harsh environment, put them in a clear plastic tube for protection.

There are 2 versions of the sticky LED strips – the "IP66" version is allegedly proof against dust and liquid. Seem to cost pretty much the same but better suited to use within coolant-rich enclosures. These strips are pretty much a generic product now and available from any number of outlets. Being 12VDC powered, they are relatively safe.

Murray

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by Andrew Johnston on 01/09/2018 21:26:41:

Posted by simon Hewitt 1 on 01/09/2018 21:11:55:

Interested in views, thanks.

Me too as I'm thinking of updating my workshop lighting, currently 5 flourescent tubes. I spend more on running the lighting than running the machine tools!

Andrew

One conclusion you can come to fairly early on is that fluorescent strips cost pretty much the same to run as their LED cousins – the cost in terms of W per Lumen works out very similar. The difference comes in other metrics such as warm up time, noise, ageing mechanism (flickering?), size, weight etc. LEDs lose light output as they age but a decent quality one should at least make it to the end of its natural life.

The biggest problem I've had with LED lighting has been premature failure due to crappy quality solder joints and internal components failing catastrophically. Almost all of the dozen or so "Luceco" candle bulbs I bought from Maplin (remember them?) have now failed due to dodgy solder joints going intermittent. less than a year after purchase and well within the claimed lifetime. I think many of these "lifetime" figures have simply been pulled out of their ass. Worth going for a semi reputable brand and keeping the receipts (buy online, click and collect etc keeps an electronic copy) so you can go back to them and play pop if necessary.

Murray

[Author]

Posts