Leadscrew cover/guard

[Andrew BroomeParticipant @andrewbroome18525]

HI everyone.

After a vigorous attack on some brass bar the other day I noticed that the threads of my leadscrew were full of swarf. It got me thinking that apart from the safety aspect some form of cover over the Leadscrew may be beneficial. However a search of the internet revealed a variety of solutions which were either expensive curtain types, or required the removal of the screw for fitting.

Is there a simple solution to this problem? Alternatively am I worrying over nothing and just make sure I brush the screw clean after use??

Many thanks.

[Andrew BroomeParticipant @andrewbroome18525]

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I just fitted a short aluminium guard to the back of my apron, it keeps swarf off the most vulnerable part of the leadscrew.

Neil

[Anonymous]

Generally my leadscrew doesn't seem to pick up much swarf except right at headstock where the half nuts never go. I simply clean my leadscrew every now and again with an old toothbrush. However, I have a separate power feed shaft on my lathe, so the leadscrew doesn't get much use.

Andrew

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

+1 on regular cleaning, no special cover.

My 1949 South Bend lathe's leadscrew has never had a cover and despite a LOT of use there has been no ill effects that I can see. I also brush the screw off regularly with a small brush and keep it well oiled.

Good luck with yours. JD

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

A bit of plastic pipe works a treat for me

[Andrew BroomeParticipant @andrewbroome18525]

Thanks for the replies.

Ady1 : How have you fitted the plastic pipe? That seemed an obvious approach to me save I couldn't easily see how I could make it "telescope"? I am wondering if a simple guard is best which Neil uses?

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

Best to leave it open,before use clean it with a tooth brush and a squirt of oil, better to know its dirty and needs cleaning rather than covering it up and any dirt which gets under the guard cannot be seen,a guard has to be very good to keep swarf out.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Bit of steel tubing slit lengthwise and opened up, with a bracket soldered on the end and mounted to the carriage by a small screw. As its only about six inches long, you can still inspect and oil the leadscrew by moving the carriage down the tailstock end of the bed. The chip tray above it keeps most nasties out of the unwipered slideways too.

[Johan van ZantenParticipant @johanvanzanten]

What about this?

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

My first bit I split it along its length and slipped it over to see how it went

second time around I removed the leadscrew completely and fitted an unsplit pipe which was much nicer and a job for life kinda thing

Slipped being a relative term, it's tough plastic water/gas pipe and returned to its original shape once fitted… after 20 mins of effort on my part

Get your pipe length right first time, not the sort of job you want to do often, for me it's been very useful so I made the effort of removing the leadscrew, I'm a messy user and the swarf can really pile up(observe those lovely clean lathes in previous posts, then mine)

I never bothered attaching it to the saddle, just got into the habit of pushing it back with a finger, hopper has a nice system, (a proper system)

Edited By Ady1 on 02/09/2015 11:23:04

[Another JohnSParticipant @anotherjohns]

Posted by Johan van Zanten on 02/09/2015 09:55:39:

What about this?

John – beautifully kept lathe, but a bit of a warning – I had a chip tray on my Compact-8, then purchased a collet holder, THEN did some power-feed when turning. The chip tray hit the headstock, and I got to figure out how to replace the aluminium shear pins!

Looks like you have thought of that, because yours is not too long, but others might heed the warning…

Another John.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

My WM250 came with telescopic guards provided, have had it off to check once, pretty clean but still had swarf in there, haven't had the need to remove it as not yet had the need to use face plate & I know this will stop the saddle getting close up to the faceplate.

I wouldn't worry over it too much, a quick brush down will keep it reasonably clean, or as with others fit a piece of DPC / thick flexible plastic sheeting to your saddle will do the job.

George.

[Steve PapworthParticipant @stevepapworth83993]

Seeing the picture of Ady1's Drummond flat bed, I thought I'd share a picture of mine.

When I made the new apron (which includes a 2:1 gearing so the saddle is more controllable with the wheel, and the saddle moves the "right" way), I took the opportunity of adding lead-screw guards, as shown. Because the new apron is made from steel flats, there is a nice flat surface at the top – perfect for attaching the guards, made from folded aluminium.

Edited By Steve Papworth on 02/09/2015 15:24:43

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Any one know where the expanding flat springs can be bought along with fixings? I feel these are the neatest.

They may be compressed as the distance they cover is reduced, not sure and I would only want one.

I too clean my lead screw from time to time but mostly before I screw cut. It doesn't get much swarf on it due to the width of the bed. Boxford's obtain the feed via a slot along the lead screw so the nut is only engaged when screw cutting. Nice because it has an adjustment that sets the force that is applied to a bed stop. Just a simple drive friction setting.

John

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[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Later versions of my Asian lathe had volute spring type covers over the leadscrew. Unfortunately, these look to require a lot of stripping to fit, so have refrained from retrofitting to mine.

From time to time, I move the saddle to the Tailstock end of the bed, and engage the drive to the leadscrew, and then hold an old tooth brush against the leadscrew. Ceertainly do this before any screwcutting, to minimise risk of carrying rubbish into the halfnuts. If the direction of rotation of the screw has been chosen correctly, the rubbish, (swarf/dust/grease) gets worked up to the headstock end and out of the thread.

Old toothbrushes are useful for this sort of work, as well as cleaning taps, dies or drills after use. They are cheap, and disposable, although mine usually will have been cleaned a few times in white spirit before being discarded finally.

Not tight, just careful y'ken!

Howard

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