Leadscrew concertina bellows.

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Further to my ML7 restoration, I am hoping to find some sort of concertina bellows to protect the leadscrew.

I need to make my ML7 last as long as I do!

Thanks,

Andrew.

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Some lathes use a sort of wound sheet metal spring. It prevents the saddle getting close to the headstock so them people take them off. Perhaps you can look around for someone wanting to get rid of it.

[John CParticipant @johnc47954]

Something like this? **LINK**

Note the price!

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

My lathe has the wound spring type of guard, many time I have thought of removing it. Like every time I turn a chuck back plate or do faceplate work. The combination of guard and its housing means big overhang on the cutting tool.

[Enough!Participant @enough]

Posted by John C on 06/12/2016 18:28:44:

Something like this? **LINK**
Note the price!

Is that a spiral spring or what? It looks almost like a series of interlocking short tube sections such as those fold-up plastic teacups they used to sell for picnics etc. Wonder if you could roll-form something like that. It wouldn't actually need a joined seam

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Dyson vac tubes.

See here: **LINK**

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Problem is most lathes today have their design history well back. As an example the Series 7 Myford's all date back to 1947, a time span of 69 years.

Even the larger generic 12 x 36 and 14 x 40 Chinese lathes were roughly modeled on the Harrison M300 series which came out in about 1970

All of these were designed before guards came in and consequently none of them made room for a spring guard.

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Hi Andrew,
I use on my Myford, a concertinad black plastic tube with a slit along its length. From car spares shop, sold as protective sheathing for the electric wiring loom. It just slips over l/s and if necessary will crush if hit by saddle. Cheap and effective!
John

Edited By DMB on 07/12/2016 00:07:09

[StephenSParticipant @stephens]

I don't know if we are allowed to link to this site on here, if not then maybe the moderators could remove this post and I will say sorry in advance.

I saw this idea and thought it was a good quick and cheap solution.

**LINK**

It may suit you, have a look and see.

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

**LINK**

**LINK**

I think there are other suppliers, but can't recall the names at the moment.

They can work well, but are not without "issues". The closed size mentioned above is one – you need space to fit them & the centereing cup / spigot they require. In operation, they tend to stick when they get oily & they can be "interesting" to fit. Better than bellows in a horizontal application, though, as bellows tend to get caught in the thread of screws & eventually tear.

Nigel B

[John CParticipant @johnc47954]

Posted by Bandersnatch on 06/12/2016 22:28:41:

Posted by John C on 06/12/2016 18:28:44:

Something like this? **LINK**
Note the price!

Is that a spiral spring or what? It looks almost like a series of interlocking short tube sections such as those fold-up plastic teacups they used to sell for picnics etc. Wonder if you could roll-form something like that. It wouldn't actually need a joined seam

Bander – it is a spiral of spring steel.

John

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Bandersnatch on 06/12/2016 22:28:41:

It looks almost like a series of interlocking short tube sections such as those fold-up plastic teacups they used to sell for picnics etc. Wonder if you could roll-form something like that. It wouldn't actually need a joined seam

.

I think that style is mostly used for Z-axiz … My 'le Locle' pantograph machine has one, but the assembly would probably be too loose for horizontal use.

MichaelG.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I've just realised I have about 10" of 2" long telescoping tubes that came from a fluffy duster. They are a bit stiff but could easily be attached to my existing simple aluminium swarf deflector. They would close up when near the headstock and have to be opened up by hand.

The smallest tube is a bit larger than a film canister and they increase in size by about 1/8 inch.

This is it, I can't find a pic of just the cover:

 

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 07/12/2016 09:06:02

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Thanks gentleman,

Plenty of good ideas there and also some issues that had not occurred to me. I like the sound of the modified steel rule. Ok it does not cover the leadscrew completely, but it is an excellent 90% solution, far better than nothing at all.

Neils duster sounds a good idea too. I will mull all the suggestions over and stick the nail in the wall!

Thanks again,

Andrew.

[JonParticipant @jon]

The tapered compression springs will all reduce available length.
Considering the price of them its cheaper to buy a new lead screw in 40 yrs time used daily. Plus can see any wear and oil accordingly.

Tape measure sounds good but will have to constantly keep clear any debris entering tape housing = impossible. Tapes don't last that long either before packing up.

[Raymond AndersonParticipant @raymondanderson34407]

Andrew, This company can help, they made the leadscrew cover for my DSG http://www.dynatect.com.

You would be best with Gortiflex moulded bellows. They might have something "off the shelf " that would suit,but I rather doubt it. if not you need to send them a drawing of what you require [ all details of the info they need are on the website ] Superb products, very spendy if you need one custom made [ as in my case ] but well worth the expense.

[MichaelRParticipant @michaelr]

Posted by John Stevenson on 06/12/2016 22:40:38:

Problem is most lathes today have their design history well back. As an example the Series 7 Myford's all date back to 1947, a time span of 69 years.

Even the larger generic 12 x 36 and 14 x 40 Chinese lathes were roughly modeled on the Harrison M300 series which came out in about 1970

All of these were designed before guards came in and consequently none of them made room for a spring guard.

As John says if the lathe is designed for a spring guard there should be no restriction at the head stock, as my Myford 254s shows, I have had this lathe from new and the spring guard has not given any trouble.

Mike.

[D HannaParticipant @dhanna35823]

Posted by Andrew Tinsley on 06/12/2016 17:36:45:

Further to my ML7 restoration, I am hoping to find some sort of concertina bellows to protect the leadscrew.

I need to make my ML7 last as long as I do!

Thanks,

Andrew.

Give it a clean at the end of each day as well as a clean before engaging the half nuts before screw cutting and it will outlast us Andrew. My Taiwan "Dashin Prince" is now 32 years young and has done some pretty hard commercial work and is still in great shape. Just keep it clean and enjoy using it!

Regards from your old mate in OZ

DH

[D HannaParticipant @dhanna35823]

Posted by Andrew Tinsley on 06/12/2016 17:36:45:

Further to my ML7 restoration, I am hoping to find some sort of concertina bellows to protect the leadscrew.

I need to make my ML7 last as long as I do!

Thanks,

Andrew.

Another thought Andrew. In the next week or so I'll call at the big toy shop where I get my stuff from and I'll see if they have spare covers for some of the Chinese lathes they stock. Could easily send it over if they have it.

DH

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Hello Dallas,

Now what do I do? I reckon I have 10 years left so do I just keep the lead screw clean (plus the half nuts!) and let my heirs worry about lead screw wear? Or do I take up your offer of keeping a lookout for something suitable on your next toyshop visit?

If you do spot something suitable let me know and I will send the necessary shekels!

Best wishes,

Andrew.

[D HannaParticipant @dhanna35823]

That's about it Andrew. We can dazzle ourselves with science at times and the cover over the leadscrew is a "nice to have" but…………….. if we keep our machinery clean then it's never a problem. Surprisinly the ML7 I have is a 60s model bed/leadscrew and it looks like it has been rarely used. The bed is lacking the normal butcher user hacksaw gashes on the bed where they have "parted off" with a hacksaw and slipped as well.

I wish you had posted this earlier as I was there on Tuesday!! Bought myself a D-Bit grinder and have made an attachment for sharpening the gear tooth and other form cutters. Sure miss the old Cincinnati No2 T & C grinder at work for this stuff but it is nice to be retired

DH

[Alan Wood 4Participant @alanwood4]

I make custom concentinas for leadscrews and for DRO scale protection using polythene sheet (as per garden cloches) sealed using a heat sealer. Simply cut a strip wide enough and long enough to go round the item to be protected and then seal in place. Fasten off at each end of the item and it will compress and expand as needed. When it gets well grunged, work hardended or damaged I replace it.

Similarly all my silver steel is in custom narrow 13" poly bags with the size written on the bag with sharpie pen. Stops the rust and reduces frustration when trying do stock checks.

These are just some of the many uses of the heat sealer and I commend it to the house. See my album for images.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

90% of my leadscrew swarf falls just in front of the saddle so I have a bit of loose plastic pipe which I fitted onto the leadscrew (removed and refitted)

Cost me about 0.01p and 45 minutes of my life 5 years ago

Edited By Ady1 on 09/12/2016 16:51:13

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Alan Wood 4 on 09/12/2016 16:43:10:

Similarly all my silver steel is in custom narrow 13" poly bags with the size written on the bag with sharpie pen. Stops the rust and reduces frustration when trying do stock checks.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=43051&p=709159

.

… Now I'm really embarassed about the state of my workshop

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 09/12/2016 16:52:52

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