Lathe Tools

[PipParticipant @pip81279]

[PipParticipant @pip81279]

Hi

I have recently purchased an Myford ML7 lathe with no tooling, I am new to the hobby and seek advice as the the type of tooling that would be suitable for a novice as there are many types available

Any advice / comments welcome

Thanks

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

You are in luck. there has just been a Thread covering this topic among other things.

You just need a couple of HSS tools and a plain grinding machine to sharpen them. Nothing more to start.

Don't get carried away by promises of Nirvana from this fancy tool or that. Just get a coupleof HSS tools.

[colin hawesParticipant @colinhawes85982]

I agree, you are better off with HSS tools for nearly all amateur work .It is a MASSIVE advantage to have a carbide tipped tool for cast iron. Useful boring tools can be made from silver steel. Colin

[VicParticipant @vic]

Also click the ad on the right " Eccentric Engineering".

[NobbyParticipant @nobby]

Hi Philip
Welcome to the forum . As Bazyle says 2 or 3 HSS tool bits. I use 3/8" square on my Myford Super 7 MK one
you may need a drill chuck for the tailstock for drilling. You can get a off hand grinder for shaping the tools
for turning , grooving ect
Nobby

[PipParticipant @pip81279]

Hi Chaps

Thanks for the prompt response

I have not touched a lathe since completing my 'O' level in Engineering Workshop Practice back in 82, seems a long time ago!

Where is the best info on tool shaping and grinding?

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

I agree about using HSS tool bits, but it may be a good idea to get a couple of ready ground ones first- this will give you an idea what the angles etc. look like. Also agree get a brazed carbide really cheapo tool for taking the skin off cast iron and the rusty bits you will find.

[VicParticipant @vic]

There's a small chart in this thread.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=71179

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Pip on 30/12/2014 08:04:52:…

…

Where is the best info on tool shaping and grinding?

L H Sparey's book "The Amateur's Lathe" is the best book I know of for the beginner and has an excellent section on grinding HSS toolbits.
The book is largely based upon the ML7 so should be quite useful for you.

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by Pip on 30/12/2014 08:04:52:

Where is the best info on tool shaping and grinding?

I would recommend this book.

Russell.

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Hi there, Pip,

Another book you may find useful is called 'Lathe & Shaping Machine Tools', by (I think) 'Duplex' and originally a Percival Marshall publication. I believe it is now part of the 'Workshop Practice' series.

An associated topic to which you should give some thought is the tool-holder or tool-post. It's very important that your lathe tool is mounted at centre height and quite important that you can change tools without spending excessive time setting the new tool to centre height. Maybe a Quick Change Tool Post (aka 'QCTP' ) or maybe a single or four-way tool post and a library of packing pieces (an old-timer from my early days used to refer to shims as 'The Devil's visiting cards'!!). You'll need to get this aspect organised.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[PipParticipant @pip81279]

Thanks All, a wealth of information

Swarf, i have recently purchased a Myford quick change tool post at Sandown Park, i did not purchase any tooling as i was unsure as to the best way to proceed

Pip

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

Hi and welcome. I have just upped my hss bar to 1/2 inch on my ML7 and find it to be far more stable than my 3/8 tools. Ebay sells it.

[Larry Coleman 1Participant @larrycoleman1]

Pip

Good to hear you are having a go at lathe work. As a toolmaker with forty years behind me what the other posts have told you could not be more correct.

HSS tools for machining is all you need but tungsten is an advantage on cast iron due to its ware resistance.

Now what some people don't know is you need a very fine diamond wheel to get a tungsten tip really sharp. Yes you can use a green wheel and if you do have a look at the tip under high magnification you may realize what a rough edge you have just produced. Have a good look at a new tungsten tip and look at the radius at the front. That is the secret to a good finish.

Now when you grind up your HSS tool use a fine oil stone and stone a radius around the front. This radius may only be a couple of thousandths but it makes all the difference.

Try what is called a water finish, Put the lathe is back gear and don't change your feed. Put on a five thou cut and engage your feed. Now you must have heaps of fluid running over the HSS tip. It will take a long time to cut two inches but the finish is well worth it.

HSS will do 95% of all your turning.

Larry

 

Edited By Larry Coleman 1 on 08/01/2015 10:23:55

[PipParticipant @pip81279]

Larry

Thanks for the advice, when i am set up and work is back to normal i will try what you have suggested, i had not thought about cutting fluids, i take it this is a must have when machining?

Pip

[Larry Coleman 1Participant @larrycoleman1]

Pip

It is not mandatory for brass & aluminum but steel it helps keep the temperature under control. when machining aluminium they used power kerosene in the old days but I believe car transmission fluid is good or hydraulic oil. Thats what they use on high speed automatic lathes. Be careful remember that they can be FLAMMABLE !!!!!!!!!!!!!! so keep a fire extinguisher handy. dry powder.

But yes soluble oil or that green cutting fluid makes life easy. With screw cutting there is a sulfur oil you can buy and it really stinks but it is magic for tapping and screw cutting. That stuff is like jelly and really sticks to the thread. You paint that on with a brush.

Go for it Pip but you will have your stuff ups but don't give up because us old buggers will help you.

Edited By Larry Coleman 1 on 08/01/2015 12:11:44

[PipParticipant @pip81279]

Thanks Larry

Don't get me started on "Old buggers" they are the ones with the real knowledge and true skill

when will they bring back real apprenticeships, I served a 4 year Indentured Bricklayer apprenticeship, my working mentor at the time was 76 and i still aspire to be as good as him, the wife calls me an old bugger as I always moan bout the standards of work nowdays

Anyhow that a whole different subject

Thanks for the info

[Larry Coleman 1Participant @larrycoleman1]

Pip

I might be showing my age here but I was trained by some of histories great men and in the field I worked in after I did my trade as toolmaker I worked in military weapons and if I knew 20% of what they new I would be doing well. When I worked at Hawkers I meet the man who designed the spitfire in WW2. My friend down the street was Bob Ford Frank Whittles assistant engineer when they developed the jet engine in the UK.

But I can understand your trade and believe it or not bricks and mortar do not get on to well with me because its a talent that requires a lot of skill and knowledge. I can not get on with wood work and you would think working in metal would help but every time me and wood clash its a disaster. Maybe its a passion for the trade that can not be explained.

I remember all those great men and they are my idles. Working in aircraft propellers is a black mystic art and it becomes instinct maybe that is why I used to get all the ships props to fit.

I love talking to people about engineering and believe it or not I do learn a lot from model engineers.

Larry

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Concur with all the others; get a couple of HSS bits to start with, a tailstock drill chuck, A rotating centre, & when you can afford it get a tangential tool holder, (see Eccentric Engineering.. usual disc' ) I use mine for 90% ( inc. Brass & Ally' ) of what I do as it has a HSS bit supplied with it & only needs one angle ground (top).. with the supplied guide.. easy. I do have insert tip tools but these tend to languish in the tool chest, as for lubrication WD is vg for Aluminium, Brass doesn't need any, & MS can be machined dry to a certain degree but use neat cutting oil ( any light oil will do but suds is preferable if you're doing large / long items.  )  Happy machining.

Re 'Old buggers'  SWMBO often likens me to a certain Victor Meldrew… I wonder why?   .  

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 08/01/2015 20:36:20

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

And cast iron use no cutting fluid, it's dusty, and dirty.

A homemade lathe tool, the flat drill was left behind by a railway work(?)gang, I saw it was HSS, so I got to work with the angle grinder, and converted it into a reasonably serviceable tool.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 09/01/2015 11:03:24

Edited By Ian S C on 09/01/2015 11:08:42

[Curtis RutterParticipant @curtisrutter61973]

Hi all so I'm also new to lathe working and after reading the post HSS tooling it is. As Arc are doing 10% off was going to order this set for my Myford ML7 **LINK**

But there's various sizes, which one do I get?

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Myford seem to offer both 1/2" and 3/8" on their shop. On the basis of that logic I would choose 10mm, Curtis.

I use a lot of 3/8" tooling and find that its the ideal size

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 14/01/2017 11:00:55

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

You will be OK with the 10 mm or 12 mm tooling. The main thing is that the cutting point is at the same height as the center. In any case as you sharpen the tool it will reduce the height anyway.

Clive

[Curtis RutterParticipant @curtisrutter61973]

Many thanks guys

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