Lathe steady

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

Hi All,

I have managed to cope with most things on my lathe except the use of steadies.

What I want to know is,how do I go about setting up a fixed steady,if I need to machine the end of a long bar? This is something that,s going to crop up somewhere along the line and I want to know how to go about it,when the time comes.

I have spent hours playing around with it and am none the wiser,just cannot get it right.I know it,s simple,like most things,when you know how,but I dont !

So,any help from you lads?

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

There are lots of YouTube videos on this subject.

Martin C

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

Thank you Martin C,

I am well aware of the stuff on U tube,I have watched much of it,without being able to hear the soundtrack,so am not much the wiser,but thanks anyway for your advice,I,m sure it was well meant.

Meanwhile——–back at the ranch !

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Do it as someone told you the other day when you asked in a thread. They explained it well enough.

[Jim CParticipant @jimc]

Hi Larry. Basically the fixed steady is clamped to the lathe bed near to the end of the long bar you are to work on. The bar should then be set to run true with the use of a dial test indicator and adjustment of the three support points on the fixed steady. If the bar is very long be careful of it whipping when starting the machine. Maybe the use of a second steady could be needed.

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

the way I do it is to put a short length in the chuck, turn it to the same diameter as the bar you want to work on, set the steady on to that short piece then slide the steady along to where you need it.

it works for me.

Roy.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Unless you need great precision, it's often good enough to set the work in a 3-jaw, then tap the far end visually true to a toolpost-mounted tool or suchlike – you should get within 5 thou or so quite easily. Then bring the steady up to the place where you propose to support the work with the points open, bolt it down and then carefully set up the points against the work, starting with the lower ones. Contact should be light, and a squirt of oil generally helps. Keep checking for true running – use a DTI if you think it'll help – and adjust the points carfully to suit.

I used this method when I was screwcutting the end of the brass tube of a 2" telescope in order to add an extra length of tubing – because I was changing to a better OG with a longer focal length – and it worked fine.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

I'm afraid Jim C's method does not work. The indicator can show zero run out but the centre of the bar can be way off the lathe centre. Do what Wheeltapper says.

Cheers,

Rod

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

Thank you both,Wheeltapper and Mick1

This is more what I am looking for. Will have another go at it tomorrow.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I supported the bar with the tailstock, turned it round at both ends, sufficiently wide for the steady rest and space for a clock gauge. No problem when turned around – true it up in the 4 jaw and clock it in at the steady-supported end (less tailstock support now, of course). Job done.

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

Thank you also Not -done-it-yet,I knew there were some good tips out there !

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

My thanks to Mick1 and Wheeltapper, Set up as advised and managed to get to within 5 thou first time.

Since the job was not to RR spec,I was happy enough with this. I was simply facing off the end of a 2" shaft,nothing fancy [not yet anyway ]. I was more interested in the method rather than the finish,although that was quite good. At least I know where I,m going now.

Again, my thanks to all who helped.

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

Glad to help. It gives me confidence that sometimes I actually know what I'm talking about..

Roy.

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

Rejoice !!! you are one of a rare breed !

[Geoff TheasbyParticipant @geofftheasby]

What NDIY said.

Turning a steel axle in my minilathe, too big to pass through the headstock spindle, I marked the centre of each end, as accurately as possible using a centre finder, checking several times. Then, with a centre drill in the cordless drill, very carefully, make a centre. Again check several times. When happy, deepen them and turn between centres, at the tailstock end with the other end in the 3-jaw chuck, then reverse ends and turn the other. This worked well enough for me.

Geoff

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Hi Geoff

What you did worked for you but if you wanted to safely drill and bore to size one or both ends you do need the use of a steady of some kind.

Emgee

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Hi Geoff, it is also not always acceptable to centre drill the end of a workpiece. As an example what if you are turning a ball on the end of the workpiece?

Martin C

[Geoff TheasbyParticipant @geofftheasby]

Emgee and Martin,

I don't have a steady, and its not worth buying one just for this job, which is probably the biggest I will do. I agree that if I needed to be really accurate, or a centre was not acceptable in that location, then I would need a steady.

It's only an axle for a 7 1/2 inch gauge driving trolley.

Geoff

[John ReeseParticipant @johnreese12848]

I have a pretty simple method that works MOST of the time. I chuck up the work. I turn on the lathe, then advance the front jaw until it contacts the work through 360 deg. of rotation. Next I bring up the rear jaw until it contacts the work. Finally I bring the top jaw into contact. If I don't get it right on the work tends to work out of the chuck.

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Geoff

I appreciate what you are saying, another method from old school for a steady is to fix a hardwood block to the lathe bed that has a hole bored (at lathe bed to centre height) to exactly match the material diameter, candle wax will act as a lubricant if needed.

You may be able to make a travelling steady that would suit your purpose.

Emgee

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