Lathe oiling

[Alex DU PRE 1Participant @alexdupre1]

Hi, is there a trick to getting lubricating oil into oiling points (i.e. those with spring loaded balls) on machine tools?  I have a pump action oil gun (from Reeves) but when I press the nozzle up to the oil point and give the handle a good squeeze, the oil just seems to splurge out.  Do I need a special nozzle, or am I missing something?

 

All advice most gratefully received, as ever!

 

Thanks!

 

Alex.

[Alex DU PRE 1Participant @alexdupre1]

[Howard JonesParticipant @howardjones35282]

you may just have too big a nozzle.

I use an old rega pressure oil can with shell tellus 46 as the oil. there is a slight weep as the oil is squirted in but it works ok

thats what it looks like

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Alex

 

on the oil can I have used

the nylon end of the nozzel is conical and the tip fits into the oil point

 

and if pressure is applied this  makes a good seal so the oil is forced in

 

                              John

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Hi all,

I used to use one of thoses awful red pump cans with a handle and a grreen one with no handle where you hold the actual tank. I think both types used same/similar type of pump where more oil ends up on the user, tops and sides of cans and any surface they are put on.

Ever since investing in a Reilang can, no wasted oil and clean hands! Usual disclaimer – just very satisfied user.

The mls-7 has lift-up caps to oilers on 2 countershaft bearings and front mandrel, no problem. I unscrew spring loaded ball type oiler for mandrel rear bearing – it only takes a moment as I keep it just figer tight. Dont very often use back gear so oiling its bearings not a problem very often. Leadscrew bearings get the finger tight oiler treatment, same as Fobco drill and mill.

John. 

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

I have an oil can which looks very like the Reeves type, but I bought it about 45 yrs. ago, made in Poland I think, This has a tapered brass end, which fits the oilers very well and can force oil under pressure. I did have to de-burr the hole edges on a couple of the oilers tho’.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Sometimes helps to put a couple of nicks into the hole in the spout so the ball does not seal the spout when you push it down.

 

Jason

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

Put a piece of kitchen towel over the nipple, press the oil gun and it should stop the leak.

I use this on my Myford lathe and oilgun all the time.

regrds David

 

[jomacParticipant @jomac]

Hi, Ive got a Hercus 260, (looks like a geared head South Bend), the oil filling points are same as a Myford, and as I have some large medical and Vetinary syringes,sans needles, I use these, easy to fill, dont leak, unless inverted. The only problems are, sometimes they seize up if left standing and its sometimes tedious to drip feed, The best part is they are free, and can be used in awkward places ( for oiling machinery ).

PS its starting to get warmer down here, although weve had the coldest Septemeber  for years.

Keep making swarf, John Holloway

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

jomac, I thought Hercus licence built South Bend lathes in Austrailia, don’t know about more modern lathes. Ian S C

[jomacParticipant @jomac]

Hi Ian, Hercus was a stand alone Australian lathe, milling , shaper, factory etc etc. designed by Fred Hercus, pre war, in South Australia, When Hercus stopped making lathes about 1982 they were selling for $10,000, so were dearer than Myford  or Boxford, they were a precision instrument makers lathe, with geared head stock and power feeds, they have a No4 morse taper and 42mm nose thread, so they are a very solid and accurate lathe, short and long beds, we can still get parts from the factory,  Im’e happy with it, I can rip off 2mm or more in one pass.

PS it’s getting warmer 23degrees and raining again. and Iv’e nearly finished the Boll-Aero, 1.8cc  IC engine, I had to stop making it for about 6 months, just need to alter the timeing and make the carby.

Thanks for listening John Holloway

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