John, Allen head bolts are not really prototypical, although they are easier to get at to tighten in these small sizes. Wee hex head bolts, or better still studs and nuts, you can all ways Loctite the nuts to the studs if that's more convenient.
Ian S C
One thing about most cap head screws that I'v used, they are stronger than slotted head screws, although I use quite a few 1/8" BSW screws. I think that worse than Allen head screws on a model is a nicely finished steam engine held together with Philips head screws.
Don't worry about me, I tend to go off every now and then, quite harmless really.
Every week a little further.
I can't do much more until I make or buy some bevel gears.
Got the governor pulleys and pedestal made, then lagged the cylinder.
I may start the governor arms, the drawings call for 14BA threads but I shall use a 1mm tap and die I have already.
There is no real need to fit the bevel gears all they do is turn the drive 90 degrees – you can just fit the pulley to the governor shaft and twist the belt.
There is no real need to fit the bevel gears all they do is turn the drive 90 degrees – you can just fit the pulley to the governor shaft and twist the belt.
Neil
What did you use for the governor drive belt on yours, Neil ?
I looked at the price of 7/16" PB balls and decided to have a go myself.
I made up a radius tool some months ago and set it up this morning.
Everything worked as planned; almost, only had to throw two away.
This week I put the flutes in the columns and cut out the side panels.
I still have the panels to decorate and a throttle to make. (and replace the rubber band with a better drive belt).
John, on the Stuart Turner S9 I used a square section belt from a tape recorder, I think the recommended belt was the wire spring one that Mamod use, or you could use the back up spring from an oil seal, you can join more tan one together to get the length, they can be got here separate to the oil seal.
It's these little bits that take the time, but if you don't do them now, they never get done.
the Lady Stephanie runs fine with just a link betwe
The Lady Stephanie engine runs fine with just a link between the beam and the piston rod , so why bother with a Watt parallel motion ? (which I trying to get right on my ST beam project ) !
regards PHIL
with a James Watt parallel motion ( which I AM STRUGGLEING
Yes, I've seen some with a simple link, I was just sticking to the drawing this being my first 'real' engine.
I went up to Kew to see the Dancers End engine it is loosely based on, excellent day out.
I know what you mean about the polish, I have a thing for brass and wood.
Hi, after reading the above posting I have decided to build the Lady Stephanie beam engine. I have all of the EIM build details from 1981/82 except one issue. I dont have June 1982. Can anybody help me? If you have the magazine and want to sell it I will gladly buy it for a reasonable price (unlike E Bay!!!). Or if someone would photocopy the relavent pages and e mail them to me I will be eternally grateful. Please contact me via the forum.
I built Lady Steph about 10 years ago. She ran very nicely on air so I stripped her down for painting and left the parts in a box for a few months. When I went to re-erect, the eccentric strap and rod were nowhere to be found. Meanwhile I had donated the plans to someone on this forum. I assumed I had lost the parts somewhere under the bench and that they would eventually turn up, but having recently moved house and cleared out the workshop they are still missing.
So… does anyone have the of the eccentric strap and rod that they could help me with? She is now all painted and pretty in a display cabinet, but would look a lot better running.
Thanks John. I'm still getting my new shop set up so certainly no urgency – it's been at least a decade since I lost the old one so another few months (years?) won't be a big deal. Anyway a scan or copy of the eccentric and rod plan would be great.