Kennedy Power hacksaw

[Ken WeeksParticipant @kenweeks58536]

I have a Kennedy 60?(small one) Power hacksaw that is missing the oil damper parts, the two rods, disc and the valve plate.

Could any supply some pictures and dimensions of the missing parts ie length of rods, size of disc, number and size of holes in disc?

Thanks

Ken

[Ken WeeksParticipant @kenweeks58536]

Oil damper information

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

Ken,

If you have a look in the recent thread "Donkey (Mechanical Hacksaw to everyone else)" you will see a link to some pics of the Kennedy dashpot in my albums, and some discussion of it.

The Album is at **LINK**

If you need more precise details, send me a pm with your email address.

Phil

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

Ken

Plunger is .258" dia. x .511" thick. The underside of plunger has a circular piece .006" shim held in place by a bolt / stud. The two "L" shaped rods are made from .250" dia. rod. The short one sticks out from the top of the plunger by 3.625" and the longer by 4.3125". The "L" shaped short bent bits are 1.625" and 1.250".

Rik

[Ken WeeksParticipant @kenweeks58536]

Thank you.

I can see what is missing.

Ken

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Ken,

I have sent you a PM.

Eric

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

HI, Sorry for resurrecting an old topic however as a newbie to this site, I have just purchased a Kennedy 3-5 Mobile Power Saw which I think is a Kennedy 90. I have bought some literature off lathes.co.uk but these are not very helping in working out what is missing and what I need to replace it.

I have an identical problem to Ken's. I have no damper pot other than the steel resevoir, I am not sure if there is an automatic switch off function, but if there is, it is missing, there is no depth gauge and there is a fixed rod missing between the damper pot linkage and a round steel eyelet at the end of the hacksaw arm distal to the saw.

I am very keen to restore this brilliant machine if anyone is able to help with drawings, photos and suggestions, I would be very grateful. I don't have the skills to make parts but keen to get them made if someone was interested.

Many thanks in advance

Jez

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Jez,

it was a 3.5 before it became the 90.

Do you have the metal box type on/off switch and does the red knob on the arm waggle a rod that allows you to lock the arm up..

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

Thanks Dave,

there is no metal box on / off switch – it is a plastic switch on the side of the electric motor housing. There is no locking mechanism for the arm.

jez

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Jez,

You need to post some photos, create an album on here and used the camera button. The auto on/off switch is shown on the lathes site for the hoover motor in the second colour photo. It needn't be that fancy.

The saw is meant to have a spring to aid pulling down the bow, but without the spring you don't really need the dashpot on the 90.

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

Thanks Dave,

On off switch issue sorted. I have uploaded a few photos to my album. You can see the top rod is missing and I am not sure what it is or where it attached to from the steel ring.

The saw works fine without a dash pot, would you suggest leaving alone?

Jez

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

if you run that link again and look at the photos of the little 60 you'll see a 1/2 rod that pivots on a screw, theres nothing to stop you working it directly.

it's the screw that you have just where the handle mounts, if you pull the rod forward it lodges on that step below and holds the arm up. Push the rod back and the arm can lower.

If it cuts OK (on the pull stroke) leave it

Edited By Dave Halford on 08/05/2021 19:00:54

Edited By Dave Halford on 08/05/2021 19:05:10

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

Thank you. So helpful. Do you have any photos showing the linkage at the T bar handle end? There is not much for me to work off on mine and every photo I see has the connection slightly obscured.

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

First colour photo on that link, all you need is a lump of 1/2" rod or metal conduit tube drilled for the allen headed bolt (yours is a plain hex). if you stand the rod on the step, lift the arm as high as it will go and mark the rod where the bolt hole comes.

Replacing the long rod will need a thread on the long rod + a spring and a knob, the other end I have not looked at but just bent at 90deg and put through a hole at the top with a split pin through the end of the long rod would do.

Edited By Dave Halford on 08/05/2021 20:50:13

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

Thanks Dave,

do you have a photo you can share of this?

jez

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

I have just looked over my machine and it all makes sense. I will post a photo when the mods are done.
thanks once again

jez

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

I have finished the modifications and posted them to my album. Thanks for your help. I have decided to rebuilt my damp pot from scratch as the saw is not cutting straight and I think this is due to the lack of dampening. My final photo in my album shows a missing alloy block which would normally be attached to the damp pot. Does anyone have any suggestions or close of photos of how the damp pot and alloy block afix?

Thanks once again

[AdrianRParticipant @adrianr18614]

Hi Jez,

My Kenedy is in bits at the moment, but there are good pics of the dash pot connection on http://www.lathes.co.uk/taylor/page2.html

[Brian GParticipant @briang]

Hi Jez

Looking at your photos, I wonder if you could make a cut-out mechanism based on the smaller saw (shown on lathes.co.uk) which had its switch on the motor?

I posted photos of mine and the parts I made for it on this forum Kennedy Hexacut 90 Power Hacksaw

Brian G

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Jez,

Couldn't get my 90 to cut straight either with a normal hacksaw blade, however it does with a stiffer cut down full size industrial 1" blade. I guessed the rear clamp was slipping and being pushed from the front bowed the blade with the extra power and let it wander.

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

Adrian and Brian thank you – those photos clear it up nicely. Does the 90 have a similar spring to oppose the damp pot? Do you know the dimensions and / or a source to procure?

Dave, thank you and excellent idea. Do you have a link to the blade you sourced? Thanks

[Trevor Drabble 1Participant @trevordrabble1]

Jez , Look at " Clearance" on Tracy Tools web site . Also , l have a blade ( may be used , l can't remember ) in stock somewhere . If you PM me your details , l will post it to you if you feel it will help you along . Trevor

[Brian GParticipant @briang]

Hi Jez

The pull down spring is fitted between a peg on the base of the saw and the part of the L shaped dashpot rod that sticks out on the right-hand side of the saw frame. It looks like 16g wire with a free length of 5 inches x1/2 inch diameter. No idea where you could get one I'm afraid apart perhaps from looking at old garden furniture.

My saw came with a bimetallic blade that wandered all over the place, but it cuts straight and true with all-hard HSS blades. The spacing of the clamp bolts is a bit of an issue when it comes to deeper blades, I have used 1/2" and 5/8" blades in mine but it looks like 3/4" blades would fit as well. (The 1/2" blades needed the hole drilling out as the pin is larger on the Kennedy saw than on a hand frame).

Confusingly, Cromwell list power hacksaw blades under hand tools HSS All Hard Power Saw Blades but If you buy from them, check the price on both the Cromwell and Zoro websites, as sometimes one is much cheaper than the other,

Brian G

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Thought I'd dump some photos of mine on here.

I confess I bought the saw with two blades. You can see you need to grind down the blade to fit it in the clamp.

The auto off lever is a wire coat hanger that goes in a convenient hole in the bottom of the arm rest.

i got sick of short bits not staying level before you can get the vice tightened so I used some scrap angle iron to support the work closer to the blade. What I should have done was use a longer bit and let the saw cut it's own clearance gap so the cut off piece is also supported.

[Jez HunterParticipant @jezhunter81798]

I have just got some SAE 90 to top up the dash pot. Is there a simple way to top it up?

thanks in advance.

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