Just got my first loco – advice on consumables/accessories

[Beardy MikeParticipant @beardymike]

I recently saw a loco going for a price I couldn’t turn down, so am now the owner of a 3.5” Juliet. I have been in contact with a local MES which I’m joining, with the next meeting in a few weeks time.

I am of course impatient and excited to play with my new toy in the meantime! It’s come with a fresh hydraulic certificate, so I feel comfortable with the safety of doing an informal steam test ahead of a proper one at the club. The issue here is that I don’t have the appropriate consumables and accessories.

It seems that I can work around a blower for now by pointing a hairdryer at the ashpan, which pushes a draught through the boiler.

Fire irons I’m tempted to just crudely fabricate something, thinking that making a nice set could be a good project for another day.

Could someone please suggest a sensible grade/supplier of coal and steam oil?

As for water, I’m in Cambridgeshire, which makes me think that tap water is a bad idea. I have easy access to water butts and condensate from the tumble dryer. Would either of these be a viable option, or do I need to get a posh filter or buy deionised water to keep the boiler happy?

Am I missing anything else that I’d need to raise steam for some simple testing?

Thanks,

Mike

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Congratulations!

Risk:   You only need a certificate to steam in public.   Testing the engine at home safely is up to you.   Consider a hydraulic test, otherwise fire it up with suitable precautions.  Safety glasses, screen, water proof apron, mask etc and of course don’t have all the grandchildren next to it.   Unlikely to badly wrong, but even small quantities of metal and boiling water flying about might have nasty consequences.

Water:  Probably unnecessary to fuss.  Tap-water should be fine for a test, unless Cambridge Water is exceptionally hard.   Water from a butt will be soft (good for boilers), but may be contaminated with bird poo, vegetable matter, and creepy crawlies.   If not clean, filter it.  Tumble drier,  dehumidifier and defrosted fridge water are  also liable to physical contamination.  Fluff, dirt from the air etc.    Again, filter if necessary.     Fill deionised water if worried.   Also possible to mix these:  a 50/50 mix of hard tap water with butt water will be 50% softer!

Coal:  Tricky if you buy it from a coal merchant, DIY store, Garden Centre or garage. It’s because these outlets cater for customers buying smokeless fuel that meets Clean Air requirements.   These vendors do not cater for Model Engine drivers, except by accident!  Don’t ask for ‘House Coal’, it doesn’t mean ‘coal wot I burn in a grate at home’ – it’s a legally defined type of dirty Bituminous coal responsible for smog.   It’s not particularly suitable for engines either.  Whilst Bituminous coal is banned, clean, engine friendly hard Anthracite coals like Welsh Steam Coal aren’t, but not many vendors stock it, or sell it in small bags.   Here I think the internet is your friend!   The main problem is high postage costs compared with a local merchant selling in bulk.  Ask your club – they might be organised to buy steam coal by the ton and then sell it in small quantities to members at cost-price.

Dave

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Definitely don’t use the very hard Cambridge water.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

A tea or even better a nylon coffee filter and the water butt will do for the water. An oil can of SAE 30 car engine oil or a 15/40 grade will do for the motion. A half liter can of STEAM oil from one of the many model suppliers for the cylinder lubricator. Coal, I use Signal Fuels size “grains” (about pea sized) and buy 2 bags each year at the Midland show, at a very reasonable price also saves postage. My loco is a 5″ but the above will work.

The hair drier is NOT a good idea. Using the venturi effect and an air compressor you can soon lash up something that will suck, you only need a gentle draw, an old car heater blower will work if the fan is not plastic. Another better option is the fan out of a gas boiler and change the motor for a 12v one ( if the motor is a 240v unit you may be able to use it at home but be CAREFUL )

If your stuck for coal send me a PM, I’m near Kings Lynn.    Good Luck Noel.

PS Who did the Hydraulic test ?

[Beardy MikeParticipant @beardymike]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I’ll dig out some coffee filters and get some water from the butt; I don’t want the boiler getting into the same state as my kettle! I’ve ordered a few kilos of the coal Dave suggested to get going, I’m sure the club will be able to advise where to get more as I run out.

There are several grades of steam oil on sale – does it matter much which one I get?

What’s the big problem with a hairdryer for initial testing? I’m aware that it’s wildly inefficient and relies on the mains, but I can just move it back away from the ashpan until the draught drops to an appropriate level right? I definitely have no intention of trying to suck combustion products through the thing. A venturi setup might be viable, but will presumably all have to be heat resistant to cope with combustion gases passing through.

Boiler testing was carried out by MSM & GS Model Supplies

[parovozParticipant @parovoz]

For blowers, we ‘generally suck’ the combustion products up the lum (chimney ). If we blow through the grate it can blow it out the fire door etc. The purpose of ‘draughting’ in a locomotive is to create a vacuum in the smoke box. So do follow the advice above and make a simple blower. The easiest is a compressed air venturi pipe. I even steamed a 3 1/2″ gauge engine with one of these and a bicycle pump back in the day ! Easy to make….  Or a simple electric blower, they are also available ready made to buy from the main suppliers or as a kit of parts. You’ll need it eventually…..

 

All the best.

[Beardy MikeParticipant @beardymike]

Ah yes, of course – getting a face full of sparks every time I open the fire door is the issue I was missing 🤦 My brain was completely missing the fact that I’ll need to keep opening that while raising steam. I’ll throw something together with a venturi.

I’ve seen steam oil listed as suitable for superheated steam on eBay – a full litre for a tenner. This seems like it’ll last an age – will I be fine using whatever viscosity is default, or do I need to search out a particular grade?

 

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

D K Till & Son-in-law in Histon can sell you anthracite beans by the 25kg bag.

https://www.dktill.co.uk/

Highly recommended.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

A good glass jar full of small charcoal and white spirit left to soak makes an excellent starter followed by small kindling, then the coal. For a 3.5″ loco I would go for the grains, beans will be a bit big. Steam oil, 1000 grade. Note I said a NYLON coffee filter NOT filter papers. Noel.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Some engine owners I know have made steam-raising blowers (suckers?) by fitting old computer processor cooling-fans to a suitable adaptor for the chimney top. These have low-voltage d.c. motors, I think running at 12V.

This seems to work because the flue-gases exiting the chimney are not very hot, and by the time they do reach a temperature bad for the fan and motor, steam has been generated to a pressure at which the engine’s own blower can take over. That pressure will vary from engine to engine, but seems typically from about 20 to 30psi upwards.

The boiler does not want forcing by an over-enthusiastic draught anyway. For steam-raising the fire should be burning brightly and steadily, with the exhaust just past the smokey stage.

 

Steam-oils: Basically two forms, one for superheated steam, the other not. The viscosity does not seem to matter ever so much, at least I have never seen this specified. It is formulated to work by emulsifying in the steam so its viscosity does not have the significance it does in conventional bearings and i.c.-engine cylinders.

 

John –

Doesn’t anthracite used neat require quite a fierce draught to burn? (It is a coal with very low bituminous proportion.)

 

Noel –

Or soak the charcoal in meths. Though meths does create quite a bit of soot of its own. Domestic fire-lighters might work too though are very sooty. The proper wax type that is, not the new ever-so-sustainable sort that looks like rotted hardboard and burns just as badly (I have tried them!).

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Regarding anthracite, I was just providing info on a local supplier that I’ve found reliable. I’ve no idea if it would work well in a loco firebox but it’s the only fuel which is suitable for our Pither stove. Easy to light with a blowtorch.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Our club found a type of coal that burned well, so we bought a ton, all in identical bags. Turns out some of it is the good stuff, but some is poor, lots of ash and not much heat. Clearly it’s not all the same, so beware

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