Just brought a Myford super 7

[grahammarchParticipant @grahammarch]

Hi all I’ve just purchased a mint condition myford super 7 (not picked it up as yet though) and am looking forward to learning how to use a lathe properly and all the valuable information on this site, I’m a complete newbie on machining and looking forward to hints and info on what to do 

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Welcome

Looks to be in lovely condition, lots of very usefull accessories too, you will have years of fun with that!

Couple of book suggestions The Amateurs Lathe by Sparey, Using the small lathe by L.C Mason and The Model Engineers Workshop Manual By G.H Thomas, all are quite old now and don’t deal with modern carbide tooling but for their modest cost a mine of information. Also Harold Halls books and his website are worth a look at. There are a variety of projects in all of them , from some very simple tooling items to get you going to major projects. The Hemingway kits range are also good containing all the materials and fastenings needed with clear instructions and drawings. Regardless of whatever you would like to make long term some simple tooling projects are a very good introduction to lathe work.

Most of all enjoy your new toy.

Dave

[Harry WilkesParticipant @harrywilkes58467]

Welcome to the forum Graham as well as this forum you will find the Myford Lathes group well worth joining link

https://groups.io/g/myfordlathes

H

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

The best way to learn is to go on a night course that teaches metal turning. That way, you learn from a tradesman and have someone there bounce ideas off for the various ways to make something.

There are some great books, like  the Amateurs Lathe, come to mind. Was issued when I did my apprenticeship.

Youtube has loads of videoes done by various people, Mr Clough, Clough42 comes to mind , and a German guy, Stefan Gotteswinter channel, and Robbin of  ROBRENZ, are all great craftsmen and do really good video’s.  There are many others ofcourse.

Simple things like getting safety glasses are very important.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

A few book possibilities, buy 3 get one free; there are other sources of course.
Myford Series 7 Manual by Ian C. Bradley

The Amateur’s Lathe by Lawrence H. Sparey

Using the Small Lathe by Leonard Charlish Mason

Model Engineer’s Handbook by Tubal Cain

Do enjoy the new toy

Bill

p.s. if you add a very basic profile, you might even find someone local to share a coffee

[Neil Lickfold]

On Neil Lickfold Said:

The best way to learn is to go on a night course that teaches metal turning. …

Excellent advice if only one can be found!

Readily available in most technical colleges when I was young but they’d all gone locally when I retired 10 years ago.  Just checked online and the only hobby course with ‘metal’ in the title is ‘Metal Fabrication Level 3’.

Otherwise, machining only seems available as 4 or 5 day courses from a few specialists.  Axminster seem to have stopped.

Anyone know of any suitable night school courses in their area?

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome!

MANY model engineers, and industrial users, have Myfords, and do splendid work on them.

Stan Bray’s “Basic Lathework” is also a good book for those starting out with a lathe.

One technique that is useful to learn, is that of using both hands to turn handwheels dlowly and staedily to provide a steady feed.

You will now be starting along the path of learning , not only how to use the lathe, but the measuring equipment that is needed to get the most from it.

But you will find lots of help on here, as you can already see.

Finally, don’t rush into model making.

Become faniliar with the machine by making small tools first of all. Better to make a mistake on a bit of mild steel than on a casting from an expensive kit!

Howard

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Re courses. Mostly the evening classes put on in tech colleges these days are not structured teaching for the beginner but just opportunities to use the bigger machines for people who need the facilities. Sometimes some guidance is available.
However at Exeter DMES we do have training sessions on a Tuesday evening put on by a retired professional craft teacher.
Sometimes at ME clubs you can find an individual who will give you 1to1 instruction.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Welcome to the party Graham ! The Myford Series 7 manual by Bradley and the Model Engineers Handbook by Tubal Cain are both very handy books, as are the Workshop Practice Series books, No 34 by Harold Hall and No 42 The Metalworkers Data Book, this last is a mine of information. Join a local club and you will find other Myford S7 owners, I bought one in 1970 and it has never let me down, even has it’s original main belt ! Where abouts in the UK are you ? Do not rush out and buy tipped tooling, HSS tool steel is cheap, can be easily be ground or sharpened to what you need and worked on a normal bench grinder, by eye or using a tool rest of which there are numerous designs about.

Ah well Good Luck. Noel.

[Howard Lewis]

On Howard Lewis Said:

…
Finally, don’t rush into model making.

Become faniliar with the machine by making small tools first of all. Better to make a mistake on a bit of mild steel than on a casting from an expensive kit!

Howard

Howard’s advice is good, and exactly how I started.   There is a flaw though – which small tools, and are they worth having?  Many of them are only needed to fulfil some larger project, perhaps doomed to stay on the shelf forever.    Possibilities include: stub-mandrels, clamps, parallel and V blocks, adaptors, fly-cutter,  end-mill holder, slitting saw holder, lapping tool, tool jack, and punches.   I expect other members will suggest more!

Although I’m not a model maker, I got huge educational value from building a few engines from stock metal, not castings.   Best of these for me as a starter project was Stewart Harts’ PottyMill.   Can’t find it or a photo, but this youtube example shows one running:

Pottymill requires the learner to tackle drawings, machine different materials, and plan work sequences.  Planning includes selecting tools, techniques, work-holding methods.    Executing the plan forces the need to learn another bunch of practical skills – actually cutting metal to size and finish, and then fitting parts together so the engine runs.   I found the PottyMill design to be an ideal challenge – nothing in it that a beginner can’t solve, but hard enough to make him think, try, fail mildly and learn.   Using stock metal rather than castings keeps the cost low.

A notch more difficult was building a Jan Ridders CoffeePot engine, again the picture isn’t of mine:

My builds are considerably rougher than the examples in this post made by others because I chose not develop any finishing skills.   I mostly do experimental work where looks don’t matter, and rarely bother with polishing, linishing, draw filing, putty or paint.    Just as well:  Me + Paint = Mess

Whatever you do, have fun!    And don’t be surprised on the way to learn that owning a lathe creates a strong desire to own a milling machine and lots of other tools…

Dave

 

 

 

[grahammarchParticipant @grahammarch]

Thankyou for the book advice I just purchased the Myford super 7 book

[grahammarchParticipant @grahammarch]

Hi Noel thanks for the advice I’m in Essex hoping to pick it up next week not sure if I should separate it from the bench for ease of transportation as I am sure I would need to level it up when I get it home anyway

[grahammarch]

On grahammarch Said:

Hi Noel thanks for the advice I’m in Essex hoping to pick it up next week not sure if I should separate it from the bench for ease of transportation as I am sure I would need to level it up when I get it home anyway

Be careful moving, as they are both top heavy and back heavy; That’s why mine came cheap many years ago.
You may well be aware, but “levelling” the lathe isn’t necessarily the same thing as having it “horizontal”.
The former is about ensuring it turns parallel. There’s instructions in the manual for ensuring there’s no twist in the bed.

 

Bill

[Elliot HirstParticipant @elliothirst42758]

Hi Graham,  Congratulations on a what looks like a good purchase. Many years ago the founder of Model Engineer, Percival Marshall wrote “The only easy thing to get in the game is friends.” Sharing your experiences and learning from others is part of making progress.

By coincidence, yesterday at SMEE we were discussing relaunching our training programme which ran regularly prior to Covid. We are now looking to rebuild the team of trainers and, if we can get things right, we plan to start a new programme in 2025 with some courses aimed at newcomers. Hopefully, I can say “watch this space”.  Elliot

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

As Bill say dont confuse levelling with bed straightness

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

To help with feeds and speeds, I use a clock with second hands. That way you can see how far you travelled over what time frame. Looking at the chips or swarf as it comes off the stock is another way of gauging the feedrate, and finally the remaining surface finish. Like been mentioned, try to learn winding the handles with both hands to get a steady rate rate of movement, and then try winding with a left hand only or a right hand only. If using a file, try to hold the file in you left hand, and your right hand on the end of the file being a guide. That way, you are not leaning over the lathe chuck to file a small radius to break a sharp edge or to put some form of chamfer on a work piece. What ever is the safest practice, use that. No one wants to be injured in their home workshop. There are files called lathe files, they generally have a flat sides with not teeth, and the main faces are a single cut style of file instead of a cross cut file. Just be mindful of keeping it away from the chuck jaws. While learning, you can make a simple chuck guard by cutting out a plastic disk that fits snugly onto the work piece stock. It only needs to be about 30mm in diameter bigger than the stock diameter. Push it up against the jaws. When learning it will show you where to stop so you don’t accidently hit the jaws with either a tool or a file etc. It also will keep the spindle clean and the jaws of the chuck and the scroll clean as well. Especially if you polish something to get a final size etc.  Last tip, use soft paper towels if applying polish. Do not use a piece of rag cloth. It can get caught by the rotating part and drag your fingers with it. Lens cloth make the best polishing material. Cheap and disposable too.

The most important part of model engineering, is to have fun, and the creative enjoyment of making what ever you want to make, because You Want To.

PS just checked with our local technical institute and they do have metal turning/machinist night classes available. Did not find any offered through any high schools like they used to a few years ago.   Plenty of woodturning classes though.

Welcome to the world of model engineering.

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