joining metals

[Peter Etherington 2Participant @peteretherington2]

[Peter Etherington 2Participant @peteretherington2]

hi, can anyone tell me what would be the best way to join two pieces of 0.50mm stainless steel together other than riveting. I am making a 1/24th scale fairground ride called a Skid and have used stainless for the bodies of the cars (two pieces) probably should have used brass, but all I had was the stainless. Peter

[John RutzenParticipant @johnrutzen76569]

Hi, it silver solders very well. Use Tenacity or similar flux.

[Peter Etherington 2Participant @peteretherington2]

Thanks John

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Stainless steel, use soft solder (lead based if you have some). Clean the joint and use Phosphoric acid as the flux (Jenolite rust killer) – other products may work.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Practice first.

The relatively low thermal conductivity of stainless steel is both a help and a hindrance if you are used to working with steel or copper. If you can target your heating closely the silver solder is much less likely to run all over the place. But conversely, when using targeted heating it's quite easy to leave potions of the joint a touch under-heated leaving weak spots or un-joined section.

If you do get it all well hot remember I takes a fair while to cool down naturally. Quenching to help is not a good idea.

Stainless discolours when seriously heated, motorcycle exhaust pipes are notorious for developing a yellow tint in use. Depending on grade and various specification details it can be quite difficult to get back to the standard shiny silver appearance if that is needed.

Like brass paint adhesion can be an issue. Decent key and appropriate primer needed.

As ever do things the right way with the right products and you will be fine. Its when folk assume that stainless is just perma-shine steel that troubles start. Up to a point you can. Its knowing where the point is and when to be specific that gets most of us into trouble.

Clive

(Who did it a bit wrong and had to scramble hard to get back.)

[Keith HaleParticipant @keithhale68713]

Hi Peter.

My 50+ years in the brazing/soldering business says ;

1) Don't use tenacity or similar flux.

2) Don't use lead bearing solder.

There are far easier ways to achieve what I think you want to achieve. Strong, neat, invisible joints?

Avoid having to scramble hard to rectify things. Get it right first time.

Email me to set up a 1:1 conversation.

Keith

PS Check personal profile 🤔

Edited By CuP Alloys 1 on 29/09/2020 22:20:38

[Peter Etherington 2Participant @peteretherington2]

Thanks very much for all the interesting information, Peter

[Keith HaleParticipant @keithhale68713]

Hi Peter.

See personal message.

Keith

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