J & S surface grinder – refurbishment

[gerry maddenParticipant @gerrymadden53711]

The refurbishment continues with lots of parts in for grit-blasting this week. So far only one unexpected surprise….. the oil pan. This was 'perfect' when I gave it to the master blaster but when he'd finished with it it was full of holes!

Well I say "full of" …there are probably a hand full, but plenty of pitting which isn't far off becoming holes. There must have been some water sitting in the bottom of the tank for a long time.

So my question is: what would be the recommended repair for this ? I suppose welding some plates on would be the best, but are there other proven solutions I should consider ?

Gerry.

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

Think I would be inclined to fibreglass it, now it’s been blasted you have a good surface for it to bond to, if you can do it on both sides so much the better, unless you absolutely love mig welding plates on.

[Dave SParticipant @daves59043]

I would probably TIG or braze up the holes – but I have a TIG set and like to use it
Given it’s an oil tank if you do fibreglass it make sure it’s ok for continuous submerging in hydraulic oil.

JB weld might also be an option

Dave

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

We used to repair petrol tanks by tinning with lead solder (large preheated iron) and then soldering on brass repair sheet pieces. Never had petrol leaks and that will get out of anywhere!!

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Epoxy resin is the answer to perforated oil tank. I have repaired at least three of these in the past one which had been welded first before my intervention and still needed a resin coating. Sand blast and coat the whole of the inside with a two part resin. The one I used came from RS components.

David

[gerry maddenParticipant @gerrymadden53711]

Thanks chaps. I'll give those ideas some thoughts.

[gerry maddenParticipant @gerrymadden53711]

The refurbishment progresses and I'm now into the electrics…. and a good job too! I mentioned in a previous post that the standard isolator box on the left side of the machine had been bypassed, and that a previous owner had put a power-in lead through a random hole in the body on the right side of the machine. Well, it seems they didn't do a very good job. This cable was not restrained. The three lives were still attached but the earth was free-floating as you see below!

It might have been attached to something at one time, but a very careful inspection could not determine what. Quite unbelievable really.

I will be reverse engineering the circuit diagram for this control unit and comparing it with existing diagrams in the manuals. Much of the wire sheathing is hardened so all will be replaced and the unit 'meggered' when complete.

However, one little conundrum I have is this…

The dust collector unit (which I don't have) plugs in to this big brass-bodied socket on the machine. It has four identically sized and equi-spaced pins. Three of these pins are connected to L1,2 and 3 directly from the isolator box. This wiring looks original.

Strangely though there is nothing on the body of this socket to orientate a plug that might go onto it. And the pins won't do this for the reasons given earlier!

So, J&S experts, what's going on here / what am I missing?

Gerry

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