Is a drip feed coolant advisable

[Chris TickTockParticipant @christicktock]

Posted by Baz on 25/07/2020 18:22:54:

When I was an apprentice all the machines had pumped coolant and no matter how we tried we ended the day covered in the stinking stuff, working in aerospace we used a small paintbrush and a can of soluble oil, far better, some jobs we done in stainless had to be done dry or with water only as a coolant, the job had to live in an oven until fitted into final assembly. In my home workshop I only use cutting oil put on by a brush or from a dripper bottle, I use it on carbide and have never had a problem with thermal shock, I don’t believe we are running the tips hard enough to generate much heat, in industry the tips are worked far harder and get a lot hotter and thermal shock does become a problem, it becomes difficult to see what is happening inside the cabinet because of all the coolant spray. Most of the machines I worked on had large extractors fitted on top to suck all the mist out of the cabinet so the operator didn’t inhale it.

Baz, I agree with most of your post. It must be the case that it is not vital to use cutting fluid but having said that is it advisable. No one here has apparently suffered from thermal shock from dabbing on a coolant. All in all I now am persuaded that apart from some metals I will dab or drop on a bit of coolant (safe to breath in stuff).

A website I found helpful in making my mind up is below,though I may have issues using WD40 as they suggest is:

http://www.mini-lathe.org.uk/cutting_fluid_mini_lathe.shtml

Chris

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Don't wish to flood the discussion with more of my coolant gumpf – just some photos of a air/drip feed thingy I made up – does need power ( mains) and an air supply – airbrush style compressor or old sealed fridge compressor is fine. Need around 1 to 3 psi.

No air, just fluid

Air and fluid about 1 drop every 2 sec

1 drop sec

3 drops sec

Their is no mist – the air is low pressure, enough to move swarf out of the machining cavity, but not to atomise the fliud.

The fluid is transferred in definite droplets.

The outlet nozzle – the 4 outer 'holes' are air exit, the center a tube fed coolant outlet.

Done it again – filled the page with photos…

I find the device works very well, esp on the mill where re-machined swarf is always a pain. It can be set very finely so that almost trace amounts of fluid provide a touch of lubrication and the air cools and move stuff out the way.

Fluid pressure and air volumes are adjusted using the big knobs on the pressure regulator. Fluid volume is adjusted on the knob ( knob not fitted in picture) between the pressure dials – the regulator is a needle valve regulator stolen from a $10.00 hand held CADAC gas torch.

An electrically activated valve shut off fluid flow and is controlled by a magnetic field sensor that just clamps over the lathe/mill's supply lead. With the motor off, the field is low and the fluid flow is turned off.

Complicated, I know, like everything I do…But is works nicely, easy to set up, moves easily between my machines ans so no more argument about to cool or not..

Joe

[Chris TickTockParticipant @christicktock]

Posted by Joseph Noci 1 on 26/07/2020 14:16:38:

Don't wish to flood the discussion with more of my coolant gumpf – just some photos of a air/drip feed thingy I made up – does need power ( mains) and an air supply – airbrush style compressor or old sealed fridge compressor is fine. Need around 1 to 3 psi.

No air, just fluid

Air and fluid about 1 drop every 2 sec

1 drop sec

3 drops sec

Their is no mist – the air is low pressure, enough to move swarf out of the machining cavity, but not to atomise the fliud.

The fluid is transferred in definite droplets.

The outlet nozzle – the 4 outer 'holes' are air exit, the center a tube fed coolant outlet.

Done it again – filled the page with photos…

I find the device works very well, esp on the mill where re-machined swarf is always a pain. It can be set very finely so that almost trace amounts of fluid provide a touch of lubrication and the air cools and move stuff out the way.

Fluid pressure and air volumes are adjusted using the big knobs on the pressure regulator. Fluid volume is adjusted on the knob ( knob not fitted in picture) between the pressure dials – the regulator is a needle valve regulator stolen from a $10.00 hand held CADAC gas torch.

An electrically activated valve shut off fluid flow and is controlled by a magnetic field sensor that just clamps over the lathe/mill's supply lead. With the motor off, the field is low and the fluid flow is turned off.

Complicated, I know, like everything I do…But is works nicely, easy to set up, moves easily between my machines ans so no more argument about to cool or not..

Joe

Joe well done for making it.

Chris

[Martin Hamilton 1Participant @martinhamilton1]

If i need to use cutting fluid on my Sherline lathe i use pot & brush method, i use both paraffin or Castrol ILOCUT 486 neat cutting oil.

[Dave SParticipant @daves59043]

Don’t think I’ve ever used coolant on my Unimat.
I do have flood on the CVA and the Grinder, and use an oil can on the mill.

To clear swarf I keep a value tooth brush with each machine.
Having a reasonably long handle means hands clear from cutting tool, and the bristles/handle are soft enough to cut if it gets too close.

Dave

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