So to clarify…
I feel bad about saying this, but it is not quite so simple.
First, the tip radius of your screwcutting tool will influence the infeed depth you need to cut the thread.
Let us assume you are using a full form thread-cutting insert (sometimes called a ‘topping’ insert). In that case, you can start with stock at the thread’s minor diameter and plunge to the depth given in the manufacturer’s literature (you could check the numbers, but I think they should be very close to the 5H/8 given in the Wikipedia graphic). The geometry of the insert assures the root and crest of the thread are correct.
If you use any other cutting tool, (e.g. hand ground HSS), you have to: (1) make some assessment of the infeed depth. If, for instance, it had a totally sharp point on it, you would need to feed in more than the 5H/8 (probably 3H/4) so the sharp point ends up in the right place. (2) increase the minor diameter as the cutting tool will not do anything to the internal thread tip.
Second, the diagrams show an idealised thread. The actual dimensions you use depend on the class of fit you want to achieve. That is the 5g/6H kind of thing in the ISO limits and fits document. If you do not know the class of the external thread, it would be quite difficult to make any judgement on the necessary class of internal thread.
If you are cutting something like an ER collet thread, maybe RegoFix has written down somewhere what class of fit is used in their products. If they have, that would probably be a good place to aim for.
You can play with some numbers in this:
ThreaDoctor: Advanced thread Calculator
The difficulty with all of this is that it is completely academic unless you have the means to measure what you are making (i.e. M30 x 2 go/no-go gauge of a defined class).