I have made a boob

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

I have two aversions.

1 Taking metal off a machine. (Later, you might wish that you hadn't! )

2 Scrapping anything.

So why not modify Jason's suggestion?

If you already have a theread in the longer piece, why not Locitite into place a stud?

You make the stud to the length that you require.

You then make up a "collet" to hold the shorter piece whikle you drill and tap it to fit on the stud..(This will separate it from the present threaded portion )

Does ikt have to be round? (Hard to grip, unless it has pin holes drilled for a "spanner" with which to hold / drive it)

Could it be hexagon to use a normal spanner?

Just a few thoughts

An afterthought, having converted by inserting a stud

If the diameter of the shorte piece wre an interfernce fit in the Top Slide, (Or possibly Loctited into place ) could the longer piece be screwed into palce using a stud box?

A stud box is only a bit of heaxagon, tapped right through with a setscrew asa the driving element.

Howard.

Edited By Howard Lewis on 27/02/2023 11:52:05

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you are happy to rework the Myford Stud then is the large dia at the end of the original stud small enough to enter the hole in your chuck?

If so hold by the existing 7/16" (11.1mm) shank with the large dia behind the chuck jaws, turn some down to 10mm and thread, also add a ctr drill hole in the end.

Now grip by the large dia in the 3 jaw and using tailstock support turn the remaining length down to 10mm to just below where the top surfaceof the top slide comes.

You will then have a stud that looks like the one ARC sell

Edited By JasonB on 27/02/2023 12:31:41

[DellParticipant @dell]

Posted by JasonB on 27/02/2023 12:28:04:

If you are happy to rework the Myford Stud then is the large dia at the end of the original stud small enough to enter the hole in your chuck?

If so hold by the existing 7/16" (11.1mm) shank with the large dia behind the chuck jaws, turn some down to 10mm and thread, also add a ctr drill hole in the end.

Now grip by the large dia in the 3 jaw and using tailstock support turn the remaining length down to 10mm to just below where the top surfaceof the top slide comes.

You will then have a stud that looks like the one ARC sell

Edited By JasonB on 27/02/2023 12:31:41

thats a good idea then as I have already started the thread so I can then extend the thread by hand before cutting to length.

Thanks Dell

[DellParticipant @dell]

Hi Howard

from what I understand it’s acceptable to mill up to 5mm of the top of the ml10 compound so I can’t see it being a problem the only reason for it is to get to centre height with a bit of adjustment, there is already 2mm off the tool bit holders but it’s not enough I need another 1mm or there abouts.

Dell

[DellParticipant @dell]

Okay so I changed my mind yet again, ( wife said it’s her place to change her mind not mine ) anyway I decided to use the original tool post stud and bore out a bush and the sleeve on top of Multifix, although I hadn’t done any boring before I found it was just as easy to bore as it is to turn down the OD apart from not being able to see what’s happening, I decided to make the bush first just in case I cocked the boring part up as I didn’t want to cock up the sleeve on the Multifix, I knew I had to shorten the stud but didn’t count on having to alter the nut as well because the adjuster on the tool holder fouled on it , I ended up cutting it in half and milling a couple of flats on it , ( it only needed one but looked odd ), I have about 1.5mm of adjustment so am happy with the outcome

Dell

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